Austrian Supra

Thanks for the link ! Any additional additives needed, or just the Silkolene BOA 90SL ?

Thanks, but I would need it mid of next week latest.....

I just had time to get the TRD diff installed into the diff case. When I bought the diff a year ago, they sent me "redline lightweight shockproof" with it. I´m not sure, if that´s the best oil for the diff, though. The supra has lot of power and I don´t want to fill the wrong oil. Is the TRD diff oil the best oil for that diff and the high hp/high temp. use.......? If yes.........anyone knows who has it in stock? Thanks a lot in advance, guys !!

hahahahahahaha

In that case all BOV´s were pretty useless. And on the other hand...the cha-cha sound is priceless anyway.........

I loose too much spool during the shifts........I hate that Would be even worse without any BOV.

The HKS racing type II is announced to hold 40 PSI........would be funny if it then is not able to blow off enough....... But you may be right....it seems to be that way So that would mean on race application HKS doesn´t care for proper blow off and accepts compressor stall......?? They just trade that in for the high boost holding capabillity.

Ok, Stall 90% of us sure do KNOW what I mean, though There´s nothing that can be adjusted on the HKS racing type II that will ensure better (sooner) blow off (according to HKS). The screw is just to adjust that the BOV doens´t open at vacuum and should not be turned (according to HKS). So that´s not it...... Anyone else has any thoughts on that??

On my Supra I run a 72mm tubo on 26PSI. I use the HKS Racing type 2 BOV. When cruising around and letting off at low and mid boost, or even when going WOT and letting off, I think I get compressor surge. Here´s a video: http://www.myvideo.de/watch/1607673 Sorry, it´s a little boring, but you can hear what I mean....at the beginning you hear how it seems to surge on low boost let offs and at the end of the Video you see some short WOT´s to hear how the turbo seems to get compr. surge then, too. It is surge, right? I´m pretty sure it slows down the turbo between shifts... I will install a 76mm turboand run it at 32-35 PSI soon, but still will cruise around a lot, too. So, if it´s surge (and I think it is), should I eventually switch to 2 x SQV Bov´s??? I know my old design SSQV didn´t hold 30+ PSI. BUT... but how´s the new design doing?? What´s different? Still plastic parts inside? I would be willing to buy 2 new SQV´s, no problem, but they would need to hold the 32-35 PSI, I will run, without leaking or braking internal parts in the BOV (still plastic parts inside?). Or is there an other way to get rid of that compressor surge?? Mabye that BOV?: I hope anyone can help........

I have finally sortet out how to lounch hard on the racelogic launch contol on our damn slippy non prepped airport tracks... The car now launches really fast....well, as fast as it is possble on a not prepped track. The racelogic does it´s magin in the first 2 gears, also. Problem is, on both run´s I launched like that, I onlce wan´t able to get into 3rd gear and the other run, I couldn´t get into 2nd. I tried to do a granny launch then and shiftet at 7000rpms (instad of 8000+) and had no problems with the gears...... I have TRD engine and tranny mounts. RPM limit is 8200. I may have hit it on the missed shifts, but don´t know if that´s the case. I never had such problems bevore´...not in my Vette, not in the Viper...and not in the Supra either....and the tranny shifts perfect all the time. Just on aggressive drag racing, revving as far to the revlimiter as possible and even maybe hitting it sometimes (lack of practise), ...and shifting as fast as possible.....I have the problem with 2nd or 3rd gear........ Any idea what may cause this problem is highly appreciated.......

Just found it out myself.

I have my racelogic working in my Supra since about 3 years now, with Phils file and am happy with it. Last year I built the engine and installed a single turbo setup. Now I have about 800hp at 1,7 bar. The car runs strong and the RL seems to work generally, but there´s one thing that doesn´ t since the mods... The launch control. I cannot activate it. Normally I just push the green button and step on the gas….and it revs to where the revlimiter is set. Since last year, when I did the mods, I can push that button as often as I want….it doesn´t activate the LC . I haven`t changed any wires (as I use the plug and play AEM stand allone), and as I see the light flashing when checking the ABS sensors (fast and faster the fastzer I go), and also see it flashing when I check rpm signal (faster and faster the higher I rev), it seems all inputs are ok…..and as it reduces power when going WOT in first gear, I see it generally works… Any Idea? I also tried to set a new rev limit in pushing the button, then pushig (and holding it) and reving to where I want it to be……. As long as I hold the button the light flashes (ist that correct?). Then the revlimit should be set…… But when I try to activate the LC then …pushing the button…………..the revlimit doesn´t work It`s just like I did nothing………..it´s not activated…….. ANY IDEA? PLEASE help! I have a race on 1st Sept. and need the LC working by then…………. Thanks a lot in advance!

There are guys with modded engines, with ARP main studs and more (shouldn´t be any crankwalk then), who report front seal failures.

I have personally seen two dipsiticks being pushed out and oil being spilled all over the engine bay after piston ring failures and massive blow by (on modded TT MKIV´s). I also had blowby on nitrous (on my vette though) causing the dipstick to be pushed out and spilling oil onto the headers.... All cars had no crank seal failure....only pushed out dipsticks..... That´s what I have personally seen! I know of other turbo and na cars that get special mounts to hold the dipsticks down so it cannot be blown out.......that´s even on professional road race cars...... That´s enough for you?? BTW, noone needs to believe what I am saying, but I´m not the one with a blown seal, I still have mine in! Just wanted to help other out on their problem....

I think that too much crank case pressure would first blow out the oil dip stick not the front seal........ Again, I don´t think the problem is crank case pressure related......

I personally don´t think that this damn crank seal problem is crank case pressure related....... For me it has something to do with the oil pumps and maybe with the restrictive stock oil cooler. I have a PHR engine with a PHR oil pump. I also have the stock oil cooler removed and a Greddy 16 row relocator kit mounted. I have a catch can vented to air with two big filters to ensure that all pressure can be vented as fast as possible. I run Valvoline 20W60 mineralic oil (mineralic was recommended from Jarrett@PHR). I run 1,7 bar of boost all day and see as much as 9,5 bar!! of oil pressure at WOR in higher rpm`s. I run the car on the street (highway) on the 1/4 mile and on the round course..... No seal problem as of yet (knock on wood).

I have deinstalled the a/c on my Supra. Now I would need a custom bracket to hold the power steering in place. Do you have cutomers who deinstalled the a/C compressor, too? Anyone has done that and/or can help me on that? I´ve added pictures, so you can see what I mean.

Well, I know AEM has the antilag and traction control functions. But I do like the racelogic, especially for it´s adjustabillity and for the "full throttle shift" function. So I wanted to keep it when going AEM. But now I heard that the AEM does not like it when the injector flow is cut externally (for example by the racelogic unit) and even worse..... I heard it may be able that the AEM get´s so confused, that engine damage can (I said can...not must) happen..... Now I am confused...... Anyone could professionally declare an AEM-newby what´s up with that?? Thanks, Michael