hkchan

My car is j spec too but in japan they have option to upgrade wheel size and brake to so called uk spec. It is good n happy news to you. I was curious too when i went thru the same question before.

Nice!

Ic ic, ignore my msg, sorry for the noisr

I removed this from my jdm supra few years ago n put back oem one. Tried to sell it but no one interest. Made a very light scratch by alley key when i remove it. Sell it very cheap, with hub that can be used for other wheel i believe

https://www.facebook.com/groups/supraforumseurope/permalink/1856511447897004/?sale_post_id=1856511447897004

Torgue gt, i paid 180 gbp for Dinitrol Cavity Wax. After the sticky black stuff underseal, i would never do it again in future, unless it is a car for daily usage

The steering rod that area to engine bay is open, their black spray mess up lot of things. Airbox, chassis, the bottom of all other parts in engine bay near steering rod/ rack are in a mess. I have regretted about it very much

I had the black underseal, i paid extra for better underseal, but they did not mention about clear underseal. I regret very much doing it, bcos it is not my daily car. It is in garage most of time, no driving in wet or rain or snow, so it has affect the authentic look, not worth it. Also very messy when doing work under.

Are you serious? That is very expensive!! My jaw is on the floor too.

This is very impressive. I gave up the original speakers since they were broken. It won't be cheap to source oem speakers from Japan, right?

Thanks. Good spot, LoL Yes i bought 98 supra indicator n toyota clear repeater to replace amber look original. The oil cap is trd one. But keep all original one in case future swap is required.

I have owned 1994 JDM RZ 6 speed since 2007. The auction grade was 4.5B, probably higher than today standard. It is purely stock with 17" wheel and large brake option from Japan already. 40100 km on clock. Rarely drive it, sit in garage n SORN most of time. Because the condition is too good, i have not installed any aftermarket parts, even if i have bought hks bov, hks sld, greddy booster controller and others. Only modifed the battery tray with optima battery. Because i cannot afford ruining the classic car, in the end, i bought another honda dc5 for track, n keep this Supra until the day i dont want it. I love my Supra more than many other cars. I am in the process of replacing n maintaining all old parts by oem parts in the rest of my life as hobby, if i am capable because i am not good at mechanic.

Finally sorted. The issue was not from the new gears, it was my wrong installation approach. After putting all gear back, need to make sure both side runner in parallel first. I keep turning it after the lock nut has been installed, which broke the gear inside. The best advice I would say is to make sure the both runner are aligned properly before removing the parts, and never make the seat runner position change even if we turn the runner shaft a bit to free the gear box out.

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Tried 4 gears and one end cap from gamiviti, still not working Have tried my best to research and ordered the gears from gamiviti but still cannot get it working, new gears got crack and stripped again during the movement test. The problem originally started from loose end cap, then I tried to move forward and backward many times to see what's went wrong. After research, understood where the problem is, so order 4 gears and end cap from Gamiviti. Prepared very well and follow all sort of online advice and instruction. Both side gears got worn out, so replaced both as well as new end cap (with telfon tape and super glue). However, still cannot get it worked. After two different attempts, the motor side gear works fine, but left side gear just cannot get it to work. One attempt's result is cracked gear, 2nd attempt's result is worn out again. Don't know what went wrong, have taken the things out to inspect again. The seat runner does not have any obstacle but when I manually move it, it is not quote smooth , may be the shaft with weld washer block the run, so need to move the shaft a bit when I play the runner forward and backward. Getting very good knowledge on how to remove them, but the objective of fixing it seems failed. Feeling helpless.

After the purchase of my JDM Supra (1994), it has been stored in the garage for many years due to the family. It is about time for me to prepare it for MOT, on road, and service, etc.