Sharpie

Well, with all the crap on the road now winter is here, just thought I'd pull this one up again. I'm really glad I did not get that done in the spring as by summer, Toyo would be doing it again

Yep http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5275&highlight=mats

You might find this thread a good read http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27040 And here is a pic too

Stock Locking wheel nuts £39.95 Then the next day new BLACK floor mats at £91.96

am I right in saying that those are second hand Lee or can you still get them new ?

Thanks All

No cats, exhaust, running 1.2-1.3 bar MAX: 950 degC would be max temp NORMAL: 600-850 degC it could be lower than 600 it's been a while since I watched while driving around town... SUMMER HOT DAYS: At WOT upto ~900-910 degC Just got in with 16 degC external air temps: NORMAL:450-850 degC (450C off throttle rolling to 810 at WOT) 4th Gear 40mph 1400rpm 520 degC 4th Gear 80mph 2400rpn 610-620 degC or was it 710-720 too many numbers to remember Idle for cool down 380 degC HTH

OK, slight edit to the first post.

In general - If running rich.... 1, This is not a bad thing other than zapping some of the power ? (If you run leaner then you can have more power but, have to keep within safety margins still) 2, Are there are any long term affects of this and ANY side affects that should be considered…..? (Build up of deposits etc...) 3, Some of the fuel is used as a coolant right ? My car is fine but, I was just thinking about this in general...

No, please don’t get me wrong. When I had the bleed valve installed I was paranoid about making sure everything was OK so the A/F check was at MY request and is NOT mandatory when fitting a bleed valve. I stand to be corrected but, running rich is not a bad thing other than zapping some of the power. I’m not sure IF there are any long term affects of this and ANY side affects that should be considered…..? I’m sure running rich allows for some of the fuel to be used as a coolant keeping temps down and obviously avoids DET but…..I’m getting out of my depth now - That's why I recommended giving Chris Wilson a call No need to check A/F when adjusting the bleeder...

I see, cheers Tel but, it could still be tight due to the UK alarm siren being next to the battery too.

Michael, with my FMIC (HKS R-type) CW could not keep the stock external tranny cooler in it's original location. So, I'm running without one at the moment. The old one was 8yrs old so, time for a new one I guess. ChrisB relocated his to the other side pod where the SMIC was fitted. I think Chris has the 3row. HTH Oh, one other thing...if it helps ?...the rad overflow tank needs to be relocated due to the FMIC install and the HKS way is to place it in the wing near/under the headlight (see below) which, I did not like as it's totally out of view. So, after my Toyota episode I got a 2nd hand Greddy rad overflow tank and this is now in the place of the stock alarm siren which, has been relocated into the front bumper. NOT sure how BLITZ overcome this issue ? Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs and a little OT well...but, thought it might help

I ran with a bleed Valve for 6 months and had my A/F checked at the same time running 1.2-1.25 bar Give Chris Wilson a call, he can do the lot for you.

Chris, Michael is talking about the oil cooler in the rad, not the external tranny cooler which, *might* need relocating from the bumper opening (opposite side to the SMIC) depending on the FMIC he is getting

No, I’m not taking the pi$$ - If you are used to having the wipers changed during a service before winter OR have purchased Bosch wiper blades for previous cars then it’s just a clip on arm so, a no brainer. So, when I come to change the arms at a non service time and get given three rubber strips of different lengths, then I was curious how they were fitted since, I have not seen anything on here or elsewhere before detailing the process and what to watch out for ‘scratching your paint’ etc… Yes, it’s a 10min job once you have done it for the first time but, I did not know about the below: · Making sure that the rubber buldge at one end of the blade is kept at the same end on the arm when fitting the new one. · The metal strips with the cut outs which run along the blades are reused and are put back on with the cut outs facing inwards · You might need to gently adjust the claws that hold the rubber blade in place with a pair of pliers if needed should, the new blades don’t go on after the 8th time of trying. · Making sure that you open/extend the wiper blade out away from the car before pulling the old rubber blade out as if you slip the metal strips in the rubber blade can scratch your paintwork. Why pay £40-60 when you can pay £15-20 as the arms do not need changing as often as the blades. I thought the above info or a HOW TOO document would be useful to noobs OR people who have never done this before – Don’t you agree ? I’m sure you will agree that there are various levels of technical abilities on here so, any useful info about a subject is always welcome.

Thanks Simon.

On the stock wipers you have two maybe three parts to it. You have the disposable wiper rubber blade, the wiper arm's that the rubber blades fit too and then the arm that is connected to the car. The two arms above could be sold as one unit, I did not question the parts guy but, I assume that the metal parts (two arms) he was referring too at the £60 mark. The prices above are just the disposable wiper rubber blades. A good idea from Toyota IMO HTH

I *think* that aftermarket rad's do not come with an oil cooler inside like the stock one. Just saying that you need to add (assuming this can be done) an external oil cooler if you junk the stock rad. More $$ I guess. Why upgrade or is this part of your master plan ? Not sure what prices are like but, a toyota one is ....let me check £311.11 + VAT (£365.55) - I think but, have removed EPC at the moment so, if someone can check part number T16400-46320 and confirm ?

Hi

The rain is here for winter so, I bought a new set of wiper blades from Toyota today. 3 new blades £15.06 all-in with dicount Part numbers: T85214-22360 £4.75 - LH6 wiper rubber T85214-33050 £5.64 - LH5 wiper rubber T85214-30260 £4.68 - LH3 wiper rubber Still, normal price is under £20 wiper arms are like £60 odd Has anyone ever seen a 'How to fit your wiper blades' document ? OK, the parts guy offered to show me ...and did fit them but, just wondered if anyone had documented this. There is a set way of doing it. It's cheaper going stock than anything you get at halfrauds etc....

Remeber Michael that yours has an oil cooler in it too - being an Auto

How about normal service stuff too, like how to change your wiper blades ? There is a set way on how to do this.....It’s kind of difficult to describe without pic’s

The wheel is great and I love the look and feel of a brand new leather wheel. Something to consider though and is NOT a criticism at all but, you need to hear the good the bad and what to watch out for in our club: If you enjoy the cushion effect of the stock steering wheel then the TRD wheel is a lot firmer and the cushion around the rims is minimal so, firmer in your hands too. You may not like the firmer feel ? – I don’t miss the cushion effect as I do not have to hang on to it for my life anymore since fitting my new seats. If you have cruise control and you want to retain it, then the 98on cruise control stalk is needed as Gaz mentioned above. However, since the TRD wheel is not designed for cruise control you do have to mod the wheel outer cover with a dremmel. For some this might put you off straight away as if you fcuk up then that’s a lot of money down the pan. I have never used a dremmel before, it’s the first time it was out of the box – It’s easy and I’m not a big fan of DIY really, just take your time. Once the hole is done and the cruise stalk fitted, it is a fiddly job to get the airbag to fit flush on the wheel as you have just put a cruise stalk in some of this space – It does fit but, you will see a 1 - 1.5mm gap on the side where the cruise stalk is fitted. IMO this will not affect the deployment of the airbag in anyway OR it’s trajectory path on deployment that much to cause any injury to you in an impact. If you bin the cruise or do not have cruise on your car then the airbag fits flush as intended. I hope this helps

No spoiler as it will not fit with the HKS R-type or do you mean the lip only ? I have seen cars with just the lip added back on and when lower than stock ride height they get scratched on kerbs etc....I did not want this look OR make up my own brackets to support this lip and it come of while doing warp speed one day nasty! However, and I guess this *might* apply to people who are moving to a new aftermarket bumper as well…… I did feel a slight lightening of *feel* at the front end once the spoiler was removed at 100+ leptons but, you soon adapt. I was however moving away from a stock car set-up to a more driver orientated car so, this suited me fine, for others it might not! Just another thing to consider when looking at FMIC’s and/OR new front ends

yes, they work the same & stock toyota part