Fluttering noise??

Hi

I've got a fluttering noise on my TT at about 3500-4000 rpm.

The car's an auto and if I shift down to second and hold at about 4000 ready to pass someone the engine seems to be creating this noise. I think the noise is there generally, but it seems more noticeable at this rpm.

It's fairly rapid, probably about three times a second and there may just be a slight ticking noise hidden within the flutter. The engine itself sounds fine and sweet, all the way up to 6000 plus.

I know I may be making a fool of myself here but could it be that this is being generated by something like the wastegate?

Thanks

It must be caused by the switch over to twin mode from single...in which case a VSV might have gone.

There are other people on here who can describe it better and what it does....

You may find this is an auto box noise. The fluid may be due a change. I have had the same noise and it went away after a 2l drain and refill with TIV ATF fluid.

The noise I had was only in first and second and included the ticking you describe.

Originally posted by Terminator

You may find this is an auto box noise. The fluid may be due a change. I have had the same noise and it went away after a 2l drain and refill with TIV ATF fluid.

 

The noise I had was only in first and second and included the ticking you describe.

yep! thats the one.

read this lot here

Paper towel just - bloody - brill, class:D :D

The general consensus definitely seems to point towards changing the fluid in the box. I'll get it sorted and hopefully get rid of the problem.

Thanks for everybody's help and info on this, I was starting to get a little concerned with the noise so if a fluid change does the trick, I'd class that as a result!

If the fluid change has been neglected by the previous owner, you may need to do the drain and refill twice. There is info on here on doing a complete fluid replacement, but this should not be done unless there is a real need as it can cause build up of additives in the box.

OK, now I'm back to being a bit confused...

Last night, I took a look at the ATF stick to see what the fluid was like - based on some of the comments that have I read on the forum. It looked good and didn't have a dark, thick consistency but a bright, clear kind of look.

I also checked the documentation from my last service and found that the fluid had been changed and replaced with one called Mexatrans or something, can't quite remember the name.

After replacing the stick I went for a run (any excuse to get behind the wheel !) and found that the noise had either completely gone or had become substantially quieter.

So, now that I know the fluid has been recently changed, could the noise still be something to do with the ATF, and what could the disappearance / reduction of the noise be contributed to?

Don't take this the wrong way; but how did you check for fluid level?

The MKIV box is supposed to have Toyota Type IV fluid.

Even my local Toyota garage dont know that, they wanted to give me Type III for a top up.

Not heard of the fluid you have.

As far as level goes, I remember seeing COLD and HOT markers on the stick and the fluid seemed to be up to the hot marker. The car was still warm and had been standing for about two hours after a good run of about forty minutes.

I was mainly interested in checking the quality of the fluid at the time I looked. If the fluid they've put in is wrong then I suppose I'll have to get it replaced with the type IV you mention.

Is this 'dodgy' fluid a potential cause of the problem?

Originally posted by Induction

 

Is this 'dodgy' fluid a potential cause of the problem?

Yes very possibly. The way you have checked the fluid level is not quite correct. If you do a search within the technical section of this BBS you should bring up the correct technique quite easily.

If not somebody who has a better memory than me should be along soon.

take the car out for a good run (30 miles ish), get the fluid nice and hot. return home, park the car nice and level. run the box thru all the gears from park, pausing in each, then back up to N, check yr fluid then.

with mine, the noise would sometimes b there and other times not. i dont think yrs has just gone away.

ONLY toyota type T IV auto trans fluid should b used. did u notice ONLY.

there r in depth discussions on this in the bbs.

good luck and get under that car

ps if u find it difficult to get that fluid (dont bother with halfords / charlie browns) let us know and we can give u somewhere to get it from mail order. try the lexus garages, then toyota garages. i couldnt get any locally, god only knows why.

As I suspected, check it again as described above, but leave the engine running while you check.

The fluid level change quite a bit between hot and cold, so if the service people used the wrong fluid they probably did not check it properly, your fluid may be on the low side as well as the incorrect type. The noise my be more noticeable at the start of a journey but less noticeable when the fluid is hot.

Originally posted by Terminator

As I suspected, check it again as described above, but leave the engine running while you check.

 

very important point that is.

if the engine is not running the fluid will stop being pumped and give a false higher reading. do the whole thru the gears and the reading of the stick with the engine running.

Ok, I'll go through the correct procedure and try to get a proper reading.

Also, If I verify that the wrong fluid has been used will I have to have a drain and re-fill?

Some time back, there was a lot of discussion about ATF for the MKIV. Mycroft posted information from Toyota technical which said the box should be filled with Type IV fluid. I do not know if any one on this BBS knows if there are other fluids that are compatible with Type IV fluid. As I said before even Toyota garages do not seem to have this information so I doubt other garages do either. If it can be proved that your fluid is not compatible, than IMO for your peace of mind you should replace the fluid. To do this the simple drain and replace will not surfice. You will need to do a complete fluid change. Not quite as difficult as it sounds. You have to disconnect the cooler pipes from the box the rad. Some additional bits of hose are required. One to a large container to catch the old fluid and one in to a container hold your new fluid, enough for a complete change. With the engine running the system will pull in your new fluid and dump the old. Just measure the amount coming out. When your reach the new fill capacity, you have done a complete change.

Right, I'll get everything checked out and try to get to the bottom of it all.

Thanks for everyone's help on this.

Toyota have recently upgraded their ATF IV, and this new product is less prone to depositing a glaze in the box.

Type 4 ATF, (4 Liter cans) Toyota part No. SUPERCEDED, New Number:- 08886-81015

This is so as to allow >complete

(Thanks to the LSOC and the 'un-mentionable' M)

Originally posted by Nick Harris

Toyota have recently upgraded their ATF IV, and this new product is less prone to depositing a glaze in the box.

 

Type 4 ATF, (4 Liter cans) Toyota part No. SUPERCEDED, New Number:- 08886-81015

 

This is so as to allow >complete

 

(Thanks to the LSOC and the 'un-mentionable' M)

Nick, how recent is this???

I thought ATF Type IV, was the upgrade from Type III. Does this mean that there are two grades of Type IV now the old and the new upgraded Type IV? I find it hard to believe that Toyota would not have gone to Type V if the improvement was so significant.

When I tried to get Type IV fluid from Toyota they could only supply if they had the Lexus dealership. My local Toyota dealership advised Type III.

Since late April, just order that part no. and you get the new T IV, it is no longer in Grey Blue cans, but in Black, Red and Yellow.

I think people are confused enough with Type IV don't you? a type V would throw them completely.

All 'heavy' vehicles should run this newer fluid, it is more effective of a greater temp range than before, the VI remains only moderately tilted as the temperature rises. This allows faster smoother gear changes when hot and the same when cool when compared to all previous types.