RLTC problem

I got my car back from the garage a few days ago to get RLTC installed and it seemed to work fine. Then after a while the launch wouldn't work, then, more worryingly, when I was driving the car it lost all power, till the revs dropped to 0 and the car stalled. I guess this is called misfiring?

 

Using the diagnostic led I saw that the rpm signal was the problem, it either wouldn't flash at all, or would stay lit.

 

Later on RLTC seemed to work fine, then it stopped working after 30 mins. Seems to work for a while then stop for a while.

 

I took the car back to the garage today and they re-soldered the rpm wire, which seemed to fix the problem. Then after an hour of driving the car started misiring again.

 

I don't want to take the car back to the same garage since they don't know what they're doing. Anyone have any idea what could be wrong and if it's easy to fix?

 

Thanks in advance!

The fuseholders supplied with the RLTC units isn't very good. It's spring loaded, and if theres any pressure on the cable, the unit will lose power and the car will stop... Although I'm not sure if this is the problem you describe as it won't misfire, it'll kill the car dead.

Thanks for the reply.

 

When I said "misfire" I'm just guessing what that actually is

 

The car just suddenly loses all power, then the rev counter drops down until it hits 0, then the car stalls. It usually happens when I apply more gas, like earlier when I tried to overtake someone.

 

Where is the fuseholder located? Is it in the main RLTC box?

The RLTC unit also doesn't like sharing the connection to the No1 igniter. I had a fuel computer also on this line and had similar problems to the ones you describe.

 

If this is the case simply move the RL rpm wire to the tacho pin on the ECU ... can't remember off hand which pin ........

Thanks matt

 

I was just reading the RLTC Yahoo group and found this thread:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/RLTC/message/105 which describes my problem and also your solution

 

Any idea how I find out which pin I need to move it to?

Found this text on the RLTC Fitting Guide

 

*Alternate RPM wiring -

If your car has additional devices like the HKS VPC, Apex'I S-AFC, or any other piece that is already attached to the E9-58 igniter RPM wire, you may experience an RPM signal drop which will cause the Racelogic to malfunction. A good alternative is to use the E10-16 (TACHO) wire on the ECU harness for the RLTC RPM wire

 

Guess the car will have to go back to the garage so they can switch the wire.

 

What's weird is that the car is standard... as far as I know...

The fuseholder will be a few inches down the unts harness. Usually black.

I've taken a few out and replaced them with decent fuseholders and it's fine.

Thanks Matt. I'll try taping up the the fuseholder tomorrow, then get the rpm wire switched if it doesn't work

There are actually 3 rpm wires around the ecu, IIRC its the one on the same plug as the injectors that goes to the tacho... Pin 16 rings a bell, but check on mkiv.com to be certain.

Originally posted by Matt Harwood

There are actually 3 rpm wires around the ecu, IIRC its the one on the same plug as the injectors that goes to the tacho... Pin 16 rings a bell, but check on mkiv.com to be certain.

Yeah the bit of text I quoted above says pin 16

 

Just took the car out for a spin and I couldn't get the car to switch off like it was doing earlier. The rpm was being picked up fine though, which wasn't happening when I switched the car off earlier today. My problem only seems to happen if I drive the car for a while. Leaving the car sitting for a while seems to reset the rpm signal.

Originally posted by Paul -C-

Yeah the bit of text I quoted above says pin 16

 

Just took the car out for a spin and I couldn't get the car to switch off like it was doing earlier. The rpm was being picked up fine though, which wasn't happening when I switched the car off earlier today. My problem only seems to happen if I drive the car for a while. Leaving the car sitting for a while seems to reset the rpm signal.

 

Paul - if you still cant fix this on Monday - give me a call and I'll patch you into Ben at Racelogic/ Blitz who makes them!

 

Originally posted by Paul E

Paul - if you still cant fix this on Monday - give me a call and I'll patch you into Ben at Racelogic/ Blitz who makes them!

 

Thanks Paul!

Originally posted by Paul -C-

Yeah the bit of text I quoted above says pin 16

 

Just took the car out for a spin and I couldn't get the car to switch off like it was doing earlier. The rpm was being picked up fine though, which wasn't happening when I switched the car off earlier today. My problem only seems to happen if I drive the car for a while. Leaving the car sitting for a while seems to reset the rpm signal.

 

I really should have read that!

 

Anyway, it's a fairly good bet that the unit will be mounted in the passenger kickwell somewhere. Remove the ecu cover and you should be able to find it easily enough.

Once you've found the fuseholder, let the car idle whilst you give the cable a bit of a tug around. (Not too hard obviously!). You'll know when you find it 'cause the car will stop!

Also make sure the cable with the fuseholder, isn't taught, and won't be taught when the cover goes back on.

I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago and I was sure it was heat related as it seemed the longer you left the car the further it would go before dying again! Matt replaced the fuse holder for me which when tugged killed the engine. He also disconnected the immobiliser on the ignition at my request as a precaution and since then, touch wood, it's been fine...

I tried tugging the fuseholder today but it didn't affect the engine, but I taped it up just incase. I also tugged all the other wires (ooh err) just incase, but nothing happened.

 

Since everything seemed to be working fine again I took the car for a spin to see if I could get the problem to appear again. I came back with the car still running fine after 10 mins then thought I'd try the launch control...

 

I floored it in neutral and the rltc controlled the rpm at 3k fine. But when I switched off the launch it wouldn't let me past 3k, no matter how many times I pressed the launch button, or what setting I switched the control to.

 

I switched off the engine and pressed the launch button again. This time when it hit 3k rpm it killed the engine. Done this a few times more. Then the launch button stopped working altogether, ie the diagnostic led didn't light when I pressed the launch button.

 

So right now I'm thinking it must be something to do with either the rpm wire or the launch.

 

Any ideas, apart from having the rpm wire moved to a different signal wire?

 

Thanks again for all the help so far, hopefully I'll get it sorted out pretty soon

Another thing I noticed is that yesterday when I set the diagnostic led to show rpm it was flashing on idle, then flashing faster as i increased the rpm.

 

Today however it's only flashing when I floor the accelerator, and it's either staying lit or not lighting at all when the accelerator isn't on the floor.

Probably stating the obvious here, but you do realise that you can't turn launch off... The RL unit has to see the wheels move, then it automatically disengages.

I thought pressing it once activates it (and sets the diag light on) then if you press it again it de-activates it (and switches off the diag light).

 

But anyway, the car was just dying as soon as it hit the launch rpm limit...

I got the garage to switch the wire today, but the rpm signal wasn't being picked up at all.

 

I got frustrated so decided to have a look myself, following the instructions carefully.

 

After what seemed like a long time I eventually found the problem, the rpm wire was connected up to the wrong wire

 

I connected it up to the right wire and it worked first time. I feel awesome, normally stuff like this never works for me

 

So thanks for all the advice everyone! I'm so happy now

Well done mate.

Yeah mate well done Feels great doesnt it

Have you had a chance to have a play yet?

Originally posted by Matt Harwood

Have you had a chance to have a play yet?

I had a chance to play with it in the wet yesterday, had lots of fun trying to make it lose traction. Then the car lost all power when I was trying to overtake a tractor

 

Was gonna post "I got owned by a tractor going 5mph" in the Owned forum, but thought better of it

 

Wish I had just done the full install myself now, but at least I've added another "I can do that" to my wee list

I've got a more bazaar problem. It seems to be the same as Paul's... however, I did a real time review of the signals, and its seems to be correct. The rpm picked up by the RLTC is the same as displayed on the guage of the Supra.

 

The Wheel speed sensor seems to pick up all the wheel speed. However, the front seems to require a bit more speed to start picking up, then compared to the rear.

 

And now, sometimes the wheel speed won't pick up, sometimes it does. It seems very glitchy. I'm suspecting the actual RLTC box itself.

 

But the most important thing right now is that I can get the RLTC to consistently miss-fire at a rev limit setting. I want to set the system into Valet mode, but can't.

 

Originally posted by Paul -C-

Since everything seemed to be working fine again I took the car for a spin to see if I could get the problem to appear again. I came back with the car still running fine after 10 mins then thought I'd try the launch control...

 

I floored it in neutral and the rltc controlled the rpm at 3k fine. But when I switched off the launch it wouldn't let me past 3k, no matter how many times I pressed the launch button, or what setting I switched the control to.

 

I switched off the engine and pressed the launch button again. This time when it hit 3k rpm it killed the engine. Done this a few times more. Then the launch button stopped working altogether, ie the diagnostic led didn't light when I pressed the launch button.

 

So right now I'm thinking it must be something to do with either the rpm wire or the launch.

 

Any ideas, apart from having the rpm wire moved to a different signal wire?

 

Thanks again for all the help so far, hopefully I'll get it sorted out pretty soon

Where does everyone tap their power form???

 

I noticed that although the RLTC has a permenent eprom memory the previous position is lost if you hook it up to ignitions.

 

For example, if you set your rev limit to say 3500 rpm, then it will be 3500 rpm. However, when you shut the car off, and hence the RLTC off, then turn it on, it will have no rev limit until you either turn the nob to off and back into one of the settings, or push the launch control button.

 

Also, Grahm's software seems much faster in terms of transfer, and settings layout are easier to play with.