Jim_1979 Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 This is the information the seller posted in his for sale thread... "the only down side is the gas exhaust valve sticks when you first spool up the secound turbo , so if you like your car a bit loud then no probs but if your like me and just potter about in the car you might want to change it" With the car, I also received a 2nd hand actuator. This was my original thread querying how to fit the actuator... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?p=1893589#post1893589 Ok.... been for a meeting today 70miles away or so, so got to play a little to see what the problem is. After the first time it hits 4k rpm and the second turbo kicks in the car gets louder (obviously). But then once your driving around at 2krpm etc the car sounds different and quite droney. I noticed once this happens there seems to be very little power/boost until 4k rpm happens again and the second turbo kicks in. It seems like after the 1st time the second turbo kicks in, the first seems to do very little. I put it into "2" and put the foot down, the car accelerates slowly until it hits 4K rpm and the second turbo comes thumping in. The strange thing is, if I go back to the car tomorrow the car is fine again, until the second turbo fully opens up. Anyone got any ideas as to what is actually happening?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted April 8, 2008 Author Share Posted April 8, 2008 C'mon, where are all the clever people? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaymdee Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 From your description, I think the exhaust valve is sticking open so you're loosing boost as the exhaust is simply escaping through T2, which is not actually receiving any intake air until 4000 rpm. If it's the valve itself, then I think that is a bit of a bugger to replace. I think that if the actuator had failed or the hose had a split, then the valve would default to being shut rather than open. Try putting the car in TTC (easy - search on here) by swapping the hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 Is it possible that the actuator is sticking, then after time unsticking? I'm about to pop out in the car just now to see if turbo one is getting boost again. If it is, something is sticking somehow, then returning back to normal after a period of time. Failing that, I might put it in TTC mode to see what the difference is. TTC basically has both running in parralel am I right? So it should solve the issue until I get it sorted/go single. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 Ok... I went out for a little drive this morning ad turbo one was back to working fine again. But if I was to open up number two, it wouldn't be. So is the exhaust valve sticking open, or the actuator? Or pressure tank problem?? Why would it return to normal after time? IS there anything I should do/check before I rip the turbo's off? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 double post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 double post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supradoopa Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 Take a look at my post mate... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=143867 I've had the same problems and after replacing the EGCV actuator, it seems to run fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 You have PM mate. These are what came in the boot of my car, I was told the actuator was a replacement one. My question is, what is the other part? Is it to go with it? My car had UK turbo's fitted a while back so I'm wondering if that's the old Jap EGBV or a replacement UK one to go along with the actuator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolarbag Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 The pic on the bottom is an expansion tank I think It is attached to the part in the top pic via the 3bolts on the side, It forms part of you DP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 So is it possible to replace by simply removing the downpipe and acessing it that way? Also, is there anyway to tell if it's UK or Jap part as my car has had UK turbos fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolarbag Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 It looks exactly like mine, which is a J-spec, I'm not sure if the UK spec turbos have different requirements than the J-spec I shouldnt think so, I thought it was only the EGR valve that was different on the UK specs for the intake as well as the maf sensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolarbag Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 I remember it only being accessable from the DP area Search for Blitz Twin Turbo installation, TL Licence documents it there:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 I don't know mate. Am I right in thinking UK downpipes won't fit Jap cars though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 I was having a look at his thread here about removing it etc... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=82952&highlight=Blitz+Twin+Turbo+installation Do you have to remove what he has of the turbo system until you get to the point of removing the valve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 Update: I just got a reply from envy who said it's more than likely related to the IACV. Anyone got anymore information? Or what I should be looking at to resolve it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 Cant you just give it to someone who knows how to diagnose and fix these issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 Anyone offering?? lol. In all serious though. If someone was able to diagnose the issue on the forum, I could tackle the mechanical side of it myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolarbag Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 Do you have to remove what he has of the turbo system until you get to the point of removing the valve? no but its a barsteward to remove, I cant remember what order things get removed but I remember coolant in my face....and thats after I drained and removed the rad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 Is it possible to physically check the status of the two actuators... before I drive, then once the symptoms appear. That way I should be able to easily identify what is sticking open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 Righto... took some pictures of the EGCV and the IACV actuators before I went out for a drive and then once I had stopped and the symptoms were there. It's defo the EGCV that's sticking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 Which of these pictures is the before and which is after? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim_1979 Posted July 23, 2008 Author Share Posted July 23, 2008 You know it's sticking if you pull off the hose to the actuator after a run and pressure releases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolarbag Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 I have one from a 94' TT, 55k miles, I'll sell you that if you like, just remove and replace(canistor and EGCV) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 Which position _should_ it be in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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