tbourner Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 Just been up in the loft putting some boarding up there to store all our crap, and discovered that the bathroom has no insulation above it (which explains why it gets so BASTARD cold in there!!!). Then I saw the spotlights, we have 3 in the bathroom, the wiring looked a bit bodged, not neatly cable tied or anything , so I guessed the electrician was just getting a bit pissed off sitting in the loft and decided not to put it all back. Then I thought maybe it's a risk having the Halagon lamps right below the insulation. So, the spare we've got is a 20W Halogen Dichroic Reflector, 12V, 2 little pins. I'm guessing it's not an electrical issue having the insulation above them? Is glass fibre insulation conductive? So is it a fire risk? Do I need to leave some ventilation gaps in the fibre when I put it back over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
couv3z Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 i'm no sparky and nor is my old man but we installed 9 spots lights like that they need a Air box, so they don't have any direct conact with the highly flammable insulation we used plaster boards to back little boxes to seat inbetween the beams Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 Im an electrician .These as said above need to have 30cm approx clearance around them to not be a fire hazard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 stick a bit of plaster board about 10-12" wide across the joists over where the light bulbs are and stick the rockwool over the top of that problem solved. Im an electrician .These as said above need to have 30cm approx clearance around them to not be a fire hazard. If you have to keep a clearance of a foot around a halogen bulb holder how in gods name does anybody ever fit them? Joists are usually between a foot and 18" apart The holders are also directly push fitted into plaster board hence contacting materials directly. I have some in my kitchen cieling push fitted into plastic surrounds. 30 cm gap all round is just a touch over the top. 3" clearance would easily suffice and be erring on the safe side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Beast Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 i am an electrician if you pop to B&Q you can get covers for them that fit over the top of the down lighter, you can also get them from places like edmunsons which is an suppliers for the sparky trade. i will try and get the link for you and post it in here richie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 That sounds a bit more like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Beast Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 try this link and see if it works http://www.impactlighting.com/home/index.php?m=shop&catid=25&gclid=CJSb3-rtw48CFR0fEgodz3KOYw richie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 i'm no sparky and nor is my old man but we installed 9 spots lights like that they need a Air box, so they don't have any direct conact with the highly flammable insulation we used plaster boards to back little boxes to seat inbetween the beams I hope insulation isn't highly flammable, as I've been specilying it as fire insulation for quite some time now. Mineral wool insulation can be hung in wire mesh curtains across a roof void and gives 1 hour fire integrity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbourner Posted November 5, 2007 Author Share Posted November 5, 2007 try this link and see if it works http://www.impactlighting.com/home/index.php?m=shop&catid=25&gclid=CJSb3-rtw48CFR0fEgodz3KOYw richie Looks good, thanks for that. I'd probably rather make something myself though, how much ventilation do they need? Could I effectively put a box around the whole top of the lamp fixture or does it need holes? Is the idea to just get the insulation away from them? See my pic below, could I put some thin wood/something across from joist to joist, with the lamp in the middle and the insulation 'held back' from the lamp? the top would then be completely open still (not good for insulation purposes I suppose!). How far apart would they need to be then? 3-4" from the lamp OK as it has several inches of gap to the joists? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 Like i said don't use wood. If you are going to put something across the joists over it use plaster board as thats a tad more fire retardant than wood is. I was also under the impression that fibre glass was fire resistant. I'm sure thats what they pack around external low level gas flues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 A simple plasterboard box will give you 30mins fire resistance, however you don't actually achieve that in a domestic house, especially as your loft hatch will have all the fire resisting properties of a bog roll doused in petrol. I'd have said the wood partition detail is fine, but best done in plasterboard. To be clear, this is to aid the performance of the light and prevent it overheating, rather than to stop the light setting fire to the house. Or Shadows link, if want to do it all propAh, like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Beast Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 your way would be ok as long as like previous have said you dont use anything flammable!!!! the main thing i have at the back of my mind in todays age is that if there is something that is available on the market to do the job then its there for a reason. I just dont like the thought that an insurance company could get out of paying out if there is a way!!! having said that though if you want to just keep the insulation away from the light then it should be ok!!!!!!!! the hoods are designed for if you place downlights in a place where there is living accom above them, ie in your kitchen if you have an upstairs. In your loft it is going to be plenty cold enough over the next few months to not have massive heat build up, although the lamps get sodding hot when they are on. go for the break in the insulation your way and it will prob suffice. hope this is enough info for you richie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 I thought that fire hoods or intumescent hoods were designed purely for ensuring that the break in the plasterboard (where the spotlight is fitted) is covered so in the event of a fire below the rating of the ceiling is maintained? Not really designed to act as an insulating hood imo, but then what do I know as I'm not a sparky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbourner Posted November 5, 2007 Author Share Posted November 5, 2007 Well I've just moved the insulation away a bit and put up some VERY basic boards to keep them away, I'll look into getting something a bit better made up for them when I've done the rest of the boarding. I think I'll just not bother boarding over that side now anyway TBH, it's right in the corner and we're only boarding for storage space. Thanks for all the help though, I'll let you know if my house burns down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now