Daston Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Hi all just started the process of painting my dash, however looking for a few pointers. I am currently using some fine sand paper to remove the rubbery paint stuff; it seems to be working real well but is taking ages (managed to do just my ash tray while watching the godfather part II). Is there a quicker way of doing this any electric drill bits that would work?? Also what sort of primer is best will any plastic primer be ok? Final question anyone used Five Wheel Silver as a colour if so any pics? Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 I found a few guide's on supraforums, they suggest using a heavy grit like 240 to take the rubber stuff off then prime,sand,prime,wet sand, paint, wet sand, buff and clearcoat, thing I don't get is why you sand the paint? surely your scratching all of the hard work you've just done?? can a painter explain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daston Posted January 17, 2006 Author Share Posted January 17, 2006 ah I am using 1500grit way too fine lol, I think you sand to get it even so there are no lumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 1500 will be fine when sanding the primer and the final parts of the plastic prior to the primer, I used a spoon and hot water to get rid of the rubber crap then wet sanded with a low grit, I'm also wondering whether steaming with a wall paper steamer thing would work too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerotop Dave Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Sandpaper, bits of perspex, a wallpaper scraper, and a wire brush on a mini-drill for the tricky-to-reach bits (like around the dashboard dimmer switch). Oddly the ashtray (smallest bit) takes the longest, whereas the main dashboard piece (biggest bit) is quickest! Don't forget to do the inside of the dial housing too - so many people don't bother to do this and I have no idea why. It's the bit behind the perspex on the dials that has the little green squares for the indicator arrows. If you don't do this you end up looking at your dials with the first half of the 'tunnel' in silver (or whatever colour you've done the dash) and the second bit in black. Personally I think it looks very odd, although I seem to be one of the few people (I think only Dude was the other one I've seen) who do this bit. Oh, and use matt lacquer, not shiny, if you want more of an aluminium look. Edit: Just to say that it is an utter shitty job that I hope I never have to do anything like again in my life ever again ever ever no ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daston Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 Ah tried 400 grit last night and boy what a difference got the ash tray all ready and smooth just gotta do the rest can't stop now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
INDYPWR Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 i have a questioin, why do you guys need to sand the dash while you can just paint over it as long as you use the correct paint for vinyl? i used SEM paint which does not require any sanding of some sort. just make sure you clean the dash with 'alcohol' to remove dirt and other protectant solvents that you use to clean the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerotop Dave Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Because it has that rubbery coating on it. I have no idea how well paint would adhere to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daston Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 plus my rubber stuff is scratched to F**k around the ignision Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 I used a 2p coin and a heat gun on it's low setting to scrape most of the stuff off, then coarse, medium, fine, then 1200 grit to get a nice finish. Took me about half an hour per panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daston Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 thats not bad at all used 1500 grit at first took me ages until I swapped to 400 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Has anyone used matt black paint? I want to try and get the same effect as standard....minus the scratches where the rubber has gone. Dave....Matt lacquer? does that give a real matt finish? I wasn't going to use any lacquer as I thought it would end up shiny, and I don't want my car to look like it should be in max power! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daston Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 lol I personaly was going to just use a matt varnish spray over the top of my paint so it doesn't scratch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steviekid Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 I went for the green washing up pad thing and acetone for removing the rubbery coating. Worked well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 matt varnish.....see I don't know if I trust a clear spray to give a matt finish. It seems to me (in my head any way) that if you spray lacquer or varnish on top of paint it goes shiny. Am I wrong? I would love to see pics of yours when its done by the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daston Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 Well one I was a younger I used to paint models (no not the girl ones unfortunatly) this was before I discovered alcahol and girls, anyway back on plot I used to use a matt varnish spray that worked a treat it gave a good matt finish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerotop Dave Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 You can see the effect in my car for sale ad linked in my sig. I'd never heard of matt lacquer either but I asked a friend of a friend who runs a local paint shop and he said 'Sure, pop in'. I told him what I was doing and he looked totally non-plussed and said 'How much do you want?'. 10 mins later I was walking out with a 500ml aerosol of matt lacquer for about £5. It worked a treat. Protects the paint and gives a nice matt finish. I was a bit dubious myself but I can't fault the stuff. Edit: the picture of the boost gauge is probably the best example. See how shiny the boost gauge surround/ring is compared to the dash behind it (bear in mind the two are about 1cm apart so the light reflection is practically the same). I was planning to matt lacquer the boost gauge surround/ring to match it up more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest slow dog Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 i used thinners and a cloth to take the rubber off works well and does not melt the plastic takes around 7 mins to do the lot then ruff it up with a light sand paper say 1000 grade then plastic primer then colour of your choice and then a lacquer hey presto one dash done oh and do not use thinners on the dorr hands or the window switches it melts then so muct be a diff plastic all the dash paneels and gear shift panels are ok for thinners good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Wow, your car is nice! If I hadn't only just got my car I would buy yours! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerotop Dave Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Typical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Don't supposed you want to swap for a black N/A with 60K on the clock... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerotop Dave Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Sorry, I need more of a runabout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 You mentioned you got your matt lacquer from a spray shop....any ideas of a shop that might have it? Good ol'Halfrauds maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerotop Dave Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Never seen it in my local Halfords, that's why I ended up asking a friend. You could try 'paints4u' (not sure if it's com or co uk), an extensive online paint website. Yellow pages? My local paint shop is tucked away behind a multi storey, you'd never know about it otherwise! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 I used acetone on mine when I did it but not too much or it will melt the plastic. I also did the inner dial bit in the speedo for the same reason as dave,apart from anything thats the only part of the whole shooting match that doesn't need the rubber stripping off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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