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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Battery Relocation


Willson

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I agree with matt, I could work it out for you roughly if I knew the cranking current draw of the starter motor, but you are looking in the region of about 350 cranking amps on a cold day first start of the morning, and thats not taking into account any ancilliary current draw or an engine in bad condition.

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Originally posted by 400BHP

You can get sealed batteries that are not lead-acid, i cant recall what technology they use but you can lay them on their side to take up less room, also, you could use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse if you wanted to be really trick.

 

Dry cell batteries, like Optimas etc?

 

Gaz.

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Originally posted by Matt Harwood

Before getting a fuse, you need to find out what the current draw is from the starter motor on a cold day...

 

I expect it will be quite high... I'd be amazed, but very impressed, if it were less than 60a

 

Matt, I was going by what it said on the Maplin site, I thought it was VERY low as I remember having a 150amp one on in my old car? I'd imagine the Supra is higher than that...

 

Gaz.

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Originally posted by 400BHP

Thats the name I was looking for!!!

If I recall they have a green body and red top, and gold terminals, I think they are mainly used in ICE installs but can be used for other applications.

 

Theres bodies are normally white or black and come with tops in Red, Orange & Blue.

 

Red is a starter battery, Yellow is a Deep Cycle battery for high drain apps, and Blue is marine...

 

Gaz.

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Correct Gaz! - And I can get them if anyone wants one.

 

The Yellow top can handle 1500 cca! They can be mounted any way around, even upside down. They are deep cycle batteries, which means you can totally flatten them, (not physically :innocent: ), and recharge them without detriment to the battery.

However, theyr'e not indistructable and tend to last for about 2-3 years in my experience.

 

If it's any help, Ferraris, Lambourghini's TVR's etc, aren't fused at the battery.... Just make sure that the cable is routed in as best way as possible to ensure it won't snag on anything - Even in an accident if possible.

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Originally posted by Matt Harwood

Correct Gaz! - And I can get them if anyone wants one.

 

The Yellow top can handle 1500 cca! They can be mounted any way around, even upside down. They are deep cycle batteries, which means you can totally flatten them, (not physically :innocent: ), and recharge them without detriment to the battery.

However, theyr'e not indistructable and tend to last for about 2-3 years in my experience.

 

If it's any help, Ferraris, Lambourghini's TVR's etc, aren't fused at the battery.... Just make sure that the cable is routed in as best way as possible to ensure it won't snag on anything - Even in an accident if possible.

 

Nice one Matt, I bow to your knowledge on this as you've been round the block many times (cough ;) ) on this :)

 

I just wouldn't feel safe not fusing it - fair enuff all the manufacturers wouldn't but then again they cost cut any way they can too ;)

 

Gaz.

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It is if it's a normal 'wet acid' type battery. And securing is vital!

 

Chris, I've never seen a fuse-link on a Beemer or Merc... That's not to say they don't have one, as it would obviously be safer, but again, it would need to be able to allow 300+ amps through it - Huge fuse... A small nail perhaps :D

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Matt, I think you may be right, I think im confusing it with a fuseable ancilliary wire.

 

ANy fuse over 100 amps (which it would need to be) would allow the wire to heat up enough under a non dead short to cause a fire, quite easily, as you know, a 20amp piece of wire with a 20a fuse is enough to create a fire, so really a fuse is pointless, I would think careful routing and decent sheathing would be more prudent.

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Originally posted by Syed Shah

Well, so much for the UK spec being lardy, just had it weighed and it came out at 1500kg dead. That is to the nearest 20kg btw.

 

I know you took the rear sets out (about 20lbs) what else have you done to reduce the weight?

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