mikeyb10supra Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 going to be fitting mine soon just need clarification this is correct, the electrical wires I can connect up to the ashtray light and control on the dimmer switch?? im a bit confused about the Vac hose though, what part of the manifold do I attach to?? also is there an easy way to route the vac pipe into the engine bay area?? Any help would be great Cheers Mike ps its a mechanical gague Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 ... im a bit confused about the Vac hose though, what part of the manifold do I attach to?? I would only use the one next to the MAP sensor (one inch apart from the MAP's pickup point, the one in the yellow circle) http://www.max-boost.co.uk/stuff/new_boost_pipe_front.jpg also is there an easy way to route the vac pipe into the engine?? Dead easy if you've got an auto, through the grommet that is normally used for the manual clutch cable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb10supra Posted August 30, 2005 Author Share Posted August 30, 2005 Dead easy if you've got an auto, through the grommet that is normally used for the manual clutch cable Well thats solved the routing prob then Ta Do I pop the pipe of (circled above) and replace with the vac hose?? or attach both and split them with a t-peice?? sorry for the ignorance on this topic, not to familiar with these old boost gagues Cheers John Mikey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 T-piece of course. Using that means that even if something goes wrong and pops off, it won't do a 'Jake' on you. I.e. it won't lose the MAP signal and feck off the fuel pressure for good measure. I still haven't bothered to email mkiv.com and ask them to change their instructions, which are dangerous (well, not the only one that's dodgy there, either...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb10supra Posted August 30, 2005 Author Share Posted August 30, 2005 Cheers John so just to clarify, your boost gauge vac hose is the blue hose split with a t-peice in the picures above......or is it the one cirled that I need to split similar to how the blue ones are set up???? mine is a J-spec btw is the procedure any different?? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Cheers John so just to clarify, your boost gauge vac hose is the blue hose split with a t-peice in the picures above...... the pic above shows my previous setup, which almost cost me the engine (hose popped off under boost and left the engine running dangerously lean) I was lucky because I picked it up immediately (I was doing tests so was looking at boost gauge and wideband often) AFR 16:1 at over 1 bar was not funny ..or is it the one cirled that I need to split similar to how the blue ones are set up???? Tee off the one in the yellow circle, as I said. mine is a J-spec btw is the procedure any different?? The only difference is that the JSpec depends on the MAP sensor even more I wouldn't muck about with that hose, even more so as it is also used by the FPR (via a VSV, so it is not immediately obvious) Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wez_p Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 I still haven't bothered to email mkiv.com and ask them to change their instructions, which are dangerous (well, not the only one that's dodgy there, either...) assuming you mean these instructions http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/boostguage/bg.htm John, what exactly is dangerous about them? This is how i did mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 I've just said in post #4 of this thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wez_p Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 I've just said in post #4 of this thread T-piece of course. Using that means that even if something goes wrong and pops off, it won't do a 'Jake' on you. I.e. it won't lose the MAP signal and feck off the fuel pressure for good measure. I still haven't bothered to email mkiv.com and ask them to change their instructions, which are dangerous (well, not the only one that's dodgy there, either...) in here somewhere? they say to use a t-piece sorry if i i'm being stupid, but whereabouts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Would it help if I posted pictures of my melted pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 I can't see how one can you go wrong when a yellow circle pinpoints the right pressure source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb10supra Posted August 31, 2005 Author Share Posted August 31, 2005 im a bit of a tit when it comes to things like this, ha ha still learning about the old supra, so need to make sure I get this spot on im sure with your instructions I will be ok Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 OK, this is as clear as I can make it: The photo I posted shows the MAP signal being teed-off. This is wrong though, it is much better to leave it alone and Tee-off the hose in the YELLOW CIRCLE. Much safer if something pops off (happened to me) At some point I'll get a pic of the 'correct' setup and post it in the 'Gotchas & Tips' page of my site (which is pretty much low on Supra material as of now...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wez_p Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 ah - i hadn't picked up on the circled one being different to the one in their diagrams thanks for taking the time to make it so clear for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 Here it is http://www.max-boost.co.uk/stuff/boost_gauge_pickup_point.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb10supra Posted September 2, 2005 Author Share Posted September 2, 2005 Wicked, cheers John, now for the hard bit........I need to feet the poxy hose through into the engine bay I can see that being tricky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 that's dead easy on an auto. The grommet couldn't have been more conveniently placed, even if they tried! (Push things from the bay inwards, not the other way round ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb10supra Posted September 2, 2005 Author Share Posted September 2, 2005 Blinding, Ta John will give it a go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soo Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Mikey... how did u get on with this, I have a nice new HKS gauge sitting on the side waiting to be fitted ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb10supra Posted February 23, 2006 Author Share Posted February 23, 2006 yeah peice of piss mate....although I, T-pieced into my dump valve actuator pipe rather that the manifold as John A stated, if you have an aftermarket BOV its easy......hardest part is forcing the pipe onto the t-piece the lighting wires I connected to my ash tray light with some extra wire I brought from a hardware store....and thats about it really, once you get started, all becomes clear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 yeah peice of piss mate... urination wins every time .....hardest part is forcing the pipe onto the t-piece Nah, you just dip it for a few seconds in a glass of boiling-hot water. You insert the T-piece while it's warm and flexible, then it cools and tightens up. Then you fit a clamp or a cabletie (because you never know) Jobsagoodun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb10supra Posted February 23, 2006 Author Share Posted February 23, 2006 Nah, you just dip it for a few seconds in a glass of boiling-hot water. You insert the T-piece while it's warm and flexible, then it cools and tightens up. . Damn you John A....why did I not get told this before.....ive never cursed so much in all my life + my fingers were ruined at the end of the wrestling match!! I never knew how much of a pain a T-piece could be until I tried this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Damn you John A....why did I not get told this before I apologise profusely. It won't happen again. http://www.max-boost.co.uk/stuff/millionaire-mistake_elephant_biggerthan_moon.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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