jackso11 Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 I am trying to work out if my car has the incorrect radiator to get to the bottom of my overheating problem. people talk about a thin radiator and a thick radiator but I don't thin kyou could get one much thinner than the one I have...so maybe it was replaced with the incorrect one? i have been trying to find photos but all the engine bays I find have builds going on so may not be the correct radiator. Looking for a top down photo (so I can see the width) of a TT auto rad. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Not to throw a nightmare scenario in your face or anything but are you sure that your autobox oil isn't getting very hot for whatever reason and in turn is heating the water. Its something I've noticed on forklifts with automatic transmissions that are being/have been abused. ie sky-high engine temperatures caused by red-hot trans fluid boiling the water as it flows through the oil cooler in the rad. Just a suggestion! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share Posted June 16, 2011 how would I test for that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippyboyo1 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Not to throw a nightmare scenario in your face or anything but are you sure that your autobox oil isn't getting very hot for whatever reason and in turn is heating the water. Its something I've noticed on forklifts with automatic transmissions that are being/have been abused. ie sky-high engine temperatures caused by red-hot trans fluid boiling the water as it flows through the oil cooler in the rad. Just a suggestion! well i would have never thought of that, a good point! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippyboyo1 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 how would I test for that? does the car overheat if you just leave it on idle? if so then id say it wasnt the auto box as its not moving to generate any heat.just a thought i dont own an auto so just throwing some ideas out there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 (From my UK spec Auto TT OEM rad) The top of the rad is 6cm deep, with the actual core of the rad being 4cm deep. Doh, I forgot to measure the total width of the unit. Anyway, hope the below helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 Thanks sharpie, that is the same as my rad. Back to being stumped. it seems ok if I drive normally, but if I drive on boost for a while then slow down thats when it starts to get hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Thanks sharpie, that is the same as my rad. Back to being stumped. it seems ok if I drive normally, but if I drive on boost for a while then slow down thats when it starts to get hot. Have you an FMIC? Can you tell the condition of the radiator? Has it a lot of bent fins or could it be choked up with crud? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 radiator was new from toyota 4 years ago, looks fine. I am going to get the bumper off this weekend and have a good look at the front of it. Not many bent fins at all. No FMIC. What is the other rad that sits in front of it? is that something to do with aircon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 radiator was new from toyota 4 years ago, looks fine. I am going to get the bumper off this weekend and have a good look at the front of it. Not many bent fins at all. No FMIC. What is the other rad that sits in front of it? is that something to do with aircon? Yeah, thats the aircon rad, have a look at that too obviously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 the aircon fan in the front is rusty, I have a new one that I have been meaning to change for almost a year now but getting the bumper off seems like a big job so I have left it for ages. Will give it a go this weekend and check for exterior blockages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Well if there are no blockagesin the cooling fins and you are sure that there are no air locks in the system and the problem only seems to occur when the engine is under load I'd be suspicious of the thermostat not opening fully when it should. Tell me now that it was replaced last week! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 Replaced the thermostat, the water pump, temp sensor, vicous coupling, heater matrix, coolant. stuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madwoody1 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 are you sure its getting to hot. could be the sensor is saying its hot when really its not that hot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 it getting hot, the coolant boiled the other day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Didn't get a chance to get the bumper off this weekend due to the weather, plan for next weekend I guess. Quick question, if it is blocked and not letting air flow through how can I clean it? power wash from the front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Didn't get a chance to get the bumper off this weekend due to the weather, plan for next weekend I guess. Quick question, if it is blocked and not letting air flow through how can I clean it? power wash from the front? Compressed air is usually safer, used from the engine side of the radiator would help blow to crud out the way it came in, instead of further into the core. A pressure cleaner can do more harm than good if used incorrectly. If you are taking off the front bumper and you have good access then a pressure cleaner would be safe to use IF you do not go any closer than about 10-12 inches to the core and the water jet is ALWAYS perpendicular to the core. DO NOT try to wash any part of the core that you cannot get the nozzle directly in front of at the above stated distance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 and the air con rad the same I guess. Will I be able to move the aircon rad once the bumber is off? or are all the lines going to it hard lines restricting movement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 and the air con rad the same I guess. Will I be able to move the aircon rad once the bumber is off? or are all the lines going to it hard lines restricting movement? Movement (and access) will be fairly restricted with the aircon rad still in place if memory serves buddy. I got rid of all that fancy stuff ages ago as I track the car so don't take my word as gospel! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 Well I need to get the bumper off anyway to get to the aircon fan that is only attached by its bottom bolts and taps around in there. Top braket rusted off ages ago. I have the guide to remove (and mesh) the front bumper, is it a long job? looks fairly straight forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_dragon Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 If you want any pictures of the coolant system then send me a PM. I work at Toyota so I can get any technical drawings you might need. Just include your frame number or registration in your PM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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