dave5526

Cheers, thats the kind of posts I've found but I hadn't find that one where a few people are sure they are all the same! The fact that the hoses I ordered from HEL don't fit my car, plus the link below were making me doubt it - if you scroll down the page to the Powerhouse Racing hoses there are two parts listed with different SKU's, one "Front & Rear Brake Lines for MKIV Supra with N/A Rear Brakes" and one "Powerhouse Racing Stainless Brake Lines for your Mk4 Supra with TT Brakes". http://realstreetperformance.com/Shop-by-Engine/Supra-Brakes/ Will get a wheel off and have another look at what the probem was, it's looking more likely that HEL have sent the wrong hoses, happy to order more but didn't want to do so if they were just going to be the same.

I've been doing some searching on both Google and past threads on here and can't seem to find a definitive answer... are the brake hoses for all MKIV's the same, or different for some models? I've seen several threads on other forums where people have said they are all the same, but I have a set of stainless steel braided hoses I ordered from HEL a few of years ago for the MKIV and one end of the hoses doesn't fit (IIRC it was the caliper end, but it's been a couple of years since I tried to fit them). Trying to get to the bottom of whether HEL sent me the wrong hoses, or if there are different hoses for different models. Most of the hoses for sale (including the HEL ones when I bought them) just seem to say "Supra JZA80" or similar without mentioning whether there are variances by engine type and UK/import, but I've seen one US site that lists different sets for TT and NA models so I suspect they aren't all the same and I have a set for a UK TT. If there are different ones, does anyone know where I can get a set of brake hoses (preferably braided stainless steel but good quality ruber type will do) that will definitely fit an import NA? Had it MOT'd today and this is all that's keeping it from being back on the road!

My car has a slight leak from one of the rocker cover gaskets so I've ordered new gaskets from Toyota, but while looking into the issue in the first place I came across a thread on another forum (I wont post a link in case it's not allowed) where the OP had a 93 N/A and someone replied saying to make sure the rocker cover gasket they buy includes the metal capped rubber grommets for the rocker cover bolts. However my car doesn't seem to have these grommets, and looking in the TSRM I cant see these in any of the diagrams or referred to in the removal or refitting instructions. My local Toyota parts manager couldn't find a part number or any reference to them either, all he could find was the BOLT W/ WASHER which is what I already have. I can see what looks like a rubber grommet on the 2JZ-GTE diagram through - is it just the TT that has these, or should the 2JZ-GE have them as well? And if so, does anyone know the part number for them, or have a photo I can take to Toyota to help him try and track down the part number?

Update 13/10/12 Last weekend I managed to pretty much dry out the tops of the old spark plugs (for anyone reading in future the best way I found was with a very small flat blade screwdriver wrapped in those blue disposable dish cloths to get right in the cracks and soak up most of the water). Have been waiting for the new leads to arrive before doing anything else so I've left the throttle body and leads off with the spark plug chambers exposed but the spark plugs still in. Come to look at the car today and there is water in there again mainly in the rearmost plug and nowhere near as much as before but the car hasn't been started since so I expect when the water pump starts it's going to fill up with coolant again from wherever it's coming from. I've checked all the heater hoses above the rearmost spark plug because that's the obvious location for it to be coming from, and whilst they did feel a tiny bit damp around the ends I don't think it's enough to justify the amount of water that's in the spark plugs, plus there's no signs of water running down into the plugs. It has also rained quite a bit over the last week so I did wonder if it was just rain getting in, but the area around the bonnet seal all seemed dry above the spark plugs and it's been raining earlier today. Can anyone suggest where else it may be getting in from and how I check? I'm sure I remember reading about a hose which can split and leak into the spark plugs but I can't find the post now (not even sure it was this forum) and I can't see anything obvious that looks to be leaking in there.

Ah good to know thanks. The hair dryer doesnt seem to be working - got most of the water out by poking around with a screwdriver wrapped in cloth but there are still little pools right at the bottom I can't get to with a cloth - the hairdryer has been on the plugs for about an hour and a half (moving from chamber to chamber) and still little pools in the bottom. Bit worried that water is still seeping in from somewhere now, although I can't actually see it coming in from anywhere so I guess it would have to be creeping up through the plugs if that were the case! Going to leave the old plugs in with everything off (but bonnet closed) until the new leads arrive and see if the water dries up or gets worse by the end of tomorrow. I guess if there's only a very small amount of water left it will fall into the engine and evaporate but want to get out as much as possible, and ideally be certain that the water hasn't leaked in from somewhere rather than got in externally from my heater matrix flushing - so if anyone could point me in the right direction on what to check that would be great

Lol - not yet - and hopefully she never will!

I have a 12v electric air compressor but it's pitifully low power and didn't seem to do anything - my own lungs would do better. But going to try a hair dryer when I remove the cloths after lunch which should help.

Update: RAC got the car home on Thursday, the tech who came out agreed that it sounded like it was misfiring on at least 2 cylinders and suspected it was either the spark plugs or leads, I told him I'd been flushing the heater matrix and that I thought there could be water in there but he wasn't too concerned, he thought it more likely the plugs or leads were just in need of replacement. This morning I pulled the dizzy cap and rotor arm to find both were in pretty poor condition so I will be replacing those when I put it all back together. Also pulled the throttle body, which wasn't as bad as expected, and removed the leads to find water in chambers 3-6 (assuming the one nearest the cambelt is 1)! The 5 and 6 were the worst nearest the heater hoses so I suspect it was my flushing that did it, I have a clean cloth in each chamber now trying to soak up as much water as possible and then since it's so sunny and warm I'm going to leave them to air dry for a while (the leads were dry within minutes so shouldn't take long to dry out properly). Then going to replace the spark plugs with the new iridium's and fit the new leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm when the leads arrive. My question is - I've read there is a hose that can split and leak into the spark plug chambers, can anyone tell me where this is and if there is any way to check this while I've got access? I dont want to fit all the new parts only to find the chambers fill up with water as soon as I drive it again! The heater hose that goes down the back of the engine is quite wet at the lower end and the back of the engine is a bit wet/oily which makes me think there may be a small leak somewhere? I've tried the search function but doesn't seem to be working for me, comes up with no results. So I searched for "oil" as a test and it came up with nothing - I can't believe there isn't a single post with the word "oil" on here!

Thanks for all the helpful pointers, didn't get chance to do any last night and my parents neighbours probably aren't too happy about having it parked in front of their house so decided to get the RAC out tonight to recover it home - then have a proper look when I have it back on my drive over the weekend. Already have a new dizzy cap, rotor arm, NGK iridium spark plugs and now magnecor leads and a new air filter on the way to fit while I have it all off and the car had an oil change a couple of weeks ago so at least this will rule out all the minor service items (bar a fuel filter I suppose) if water in the plug wells doesn't turn out to be the issue. Does nobody think the fuel hose I pulled off to access the heater hoses would cause a problem? I wasn't sure if it could have messed up the system somehow, I always though fuel systems were pressurized but it didn't squirt fuel everywhere when I pulled it off.

Thanks for the replies, got the car back to my parents house (was a bit worried about leaving it where it was, pulled over on a fairly busy road with no houses or anything nearby!), for the first 30 secs or so of very gentle driving it didn't seem too bad but got worse the longer I drove it, struggled to get up a slight hill and by the time I got to my parents house, which only took about 2mins total, the CAT overheating light was back on and didn't go off this time. It does seem to hit a bit of a wall just over 3k RPM. I have a bit of time to look at it tonight so going to check the black plug above the heater matrix pipes as I remember I had to remove this and the bracket it's attached to and it did have an earth on the bolt behind it, so going to check the earth is good and that the plug hasn't got wet somehow (although I'd be shocked if one wet connection is causing the engine to behave as badly as it is!). Will also check the dizzy, I had actually already ordered a new dizzy, rotor arm and spark plugs to replace anyway as I wasn't sure when they were last done. I was also going to replace the HT leads but found they are about £200 for magnecors and I can't find an alternative other than genuine Toyota, which I expect will be just as expensive, so was going to check the condition of them before shelling out. If no joy with the dizzy etc I'll check the spark plug wells, which looks far more laborious than it is on my MR2 - I notice it involves taking the throttle body off and the gasket is a non re-usable part - any ideas where to get one other than Toyota? I wasn't aware there was a Supra specialist so close so if I can't find the problem myself I'll get in contact with Chris Wilson, good to know there's an expert so close by and may actually get it booked in for a general check over anyway for peace of mind, even if I get it running smoothly again.

Hi guys, First post on here and wasn't expecting to be this! I bought my first Supra just over a week ago and drove it back from Warwick (to Shrewsbury), no problems everything seemed to be running smoothly. The only fault I could find when viewing the car was that the heater wasn't getting hot - occasionally lukewarm but mostly just cold. The pipes going into and out of the firewall were getting pretty hot and I checked the little control rod in the passengers footwell after doing a search on here which was fine. The previous owner had replaced the thermostat recently so was fairly certain it wasn't that, and he suggested that the problem was probably caused by a blockage in the heater matrix and that a good flush might sort it. So I emptied the coolant, flushed with a garden hose through the heater matrix both ways and from the radiator filler neck. Also bought a bottle of Holts Speedflush to try and clear if it was a blockage, as the inside of the radiator cap and the inside of the top radiator hose were covered in rust/particles, and the long-ish hose going to the small H-shaped hardpipe by the firewall was very stiff - when I squeezed it it softened up a bit as if it was crusted with something inside. The instructions said to half fill the system, put the Speedlush in, fill the rest of the system and then leave in for 30-40 miles before flushing again and refilling with coolant, so with the flush in the system we took the Supra when we went to the pub yesterday, drove aprox 20 miles with no issues whatsover. On the way to my parents house from the pub the engine started vibrating (could feel it through the seats more than the pedals) a little more than usual but then seemed to stop before we got there - because of the vibrations I was driving very gently so that may have just been masking the problem. Then on the way home from my parents we got less than 2 mins down the road before the engine started really shaking and making quite a bit of noise, the car seemed to be lacking in power and 30 secs later a red warning light with heatwave lines came on. At this point I thought the car was maybe overheating and the dash temp guage wasn't reading right so I pulled over, but the light had already gone off (it was only on for about 5 secs). After a quick search just now it appears it was the CAT overheating light that came on. The engine seemed very hot when I pulled over so I thought maybe I had got an airlock into the cooling system when refilling, although I thought I had bled it pretty well and the temp guage needle was still below normal operating temperature when we pulled over. So we left the car to cool down, got picked up and taken home and then went back to it this morning. Started the engine and it sounded maybe slightly rough on idle, but as soon as I revved it slightly the engine started shaking again and sounds like it is misfiring. I decided to leave it until I had further advice and haven't touched it since so hoping someone has a suggestion as to what to do next? Any idea's what it sounds like the problem could be, or whether it's safe to drive home (approx 3.5 miles on the bypass or 4.5 miles if I avoid the bypass so I can drive slower)? Possible thoughts I've already have are: a) I've got some water where it shouldn't be (spark plug wells?) while flushing the heater matrix - although I had tried to be careful and not get too much water around the engine bay, I was rushing and did spill some a couple of times I think - not vast quantities though b) The speedflush has somehow dislodged some sediment or something that was preventing a leak, so I've now got water getting into the spark plugs or engine that way? c) The other thing which may be of importance is that, in order to get one of the heater hoses off, I had to pull off a small S-shaped hose right above where they go into the firewall, which I had assumed was coolant without bothering to follow the hose - then realised it smelled suspiciously like petrol when it came off! Lesson learned - I replaced the hose ASAP and didn't think much more of it but now wondering if this could have caused an issue with fueling? Not sure that any of these would explain the CAT overheating warning light though, or the fact that the engine seemed very hot when it hadn't even reached operating temperature? Edit - also forgot to mention the previous owner said the car has been decatted if this has any bearing on the CAT overheating light. Any help/suggestions are much appreciated!