IceMan

ECU reset - is that the procedure involving removing 2 fuses for 30 seconds? If so/if not can you direct me to a web page/thread telling me which fuses/what to do? Worth a shot I suppose as it hasn't been done since it was imported. Ice

When I start my car it often hovers in low revs (around 500rpm or less) which will lead to a stall if I rev then release the accelerator. This morning it did it and it was hard to restart, turning over but not firing. Finally on third attempt I managed to start it but a small puff of blue smoke came out from under the bonnet after it finally fired up. The car appeared fine after that as I drove to work. Usually I can cure the firing problem if I get low revs by immediately turning the car off then starting it again and it will fire to full 1000rpm or so and work fine thereafter (that happened this evening). Anyone got any advice/things to look for? I'm thinking auto-stall or spark plugs or something... Thanks for any advice, Ice

Now this is a bit annoying... I have noticed a clank/knocking sound from the rear-left corner. My mate thought the tools might be loose but they weren't. He listened out the window but couldn't hear the noise. It doesn't seem to be suspension related as I drive down a pot-hole ridden lane (slowly mind!) every day and the knocking only occurs on some minor ripples and not on the actual holes. It sounds like something loose is knocking against something - like metal on metal and is sometimes quite loud (above the stereo). I thought it could be related to the speaker as my rear-left one is a bit broken and the front of the speaker seems to be loose - if I hit it makes a similar noise to the clanking sound... So, should I just get the rear-left wheel off and have a look or would removing the surround around the speaker be a better bet? For reference I have the Bilstein sports suspension pack and non-standard alloys/wheels (new tyres from January). Anyone else experienced similar? Cheers, Ice

Sounds interesting, though I'll need to read more about it before I decide - be nice if the option was at least available! I'm due in July but Direct Line currently cover me fully (with legal and NCD) for around £850 (JSpec TT). Ice

1. power steering makes a slight screetching noise until warm (only a few minutes). 2. blue-ish feint smoke comes from the exhaust immediately after starting up for about 20 seconds-ish then loads of white steam. 3. white steam persists in fairly heavy volume (reducing gradually) for a mile or so from setting off. I'm not trying to be paranoid, just comparing notes! Ice

I checked the oil in my Jap TT Supra periodically today as I seem to be getting strange readings... start of the day, freezing cold: half full drove to work (about 7 miles): bottom of the dipstick on low waited 1/2 hour: half full waited 4 1/2 hours: full to the top of the dipstick So as you can see I am a bit confused! If I was to fill it when it's on low it could be overfilled a few hours later as the oil settles! Any advice? I'm going on a long drive this weekend so I don't want to run out of oil... if that might happen...? Ice

I have the yellow ones too and my car makes a lot of knocking/dull rattling on all four corners over bumpy or rough road surfaces - it doesn't help that I live down a bridle path full of potholes (so getting home can be a teeth-gritting experience AND I therefore dare not lower my car or get a lower bodykit). Ice

1. Depending on when I check the dipstick I get a good or bad reading... - Checking before going anywhere (engine cold) the oil is near to low. - Checking after driving somewhere (even 1 hour later) the oil is up to or over full. I've got the US Supra guide but it doesn't indicate WHEN exactly to check the oil (it just says with the engine off!). So what's the score? 2. I know there are plenty of opinions on which oil to choose (bear in mind I have a stock Supra) so would 10W30 be bad or not? My mates swear by Mobil1 5W50 (I think) but that seems pricey/not available in great quantities around here. 3. I've got the JPNZ Japanese translated Supra handbook which strangely says that the car can use 95 octane fuel and even fuel as low as 91 octane. Is this feasible? Due to general lack of Super Unleaded I have been forced onto regular 95 unleaded several times now but 91 octane?! I heard that RX7s have an ECU that switches into a lower setting if the fuel isn't as good. Does the Supra do anything similar if 95 octane is used (so it feels worse but still works)? Cheers for any enlightenment, P.S. I know question 2 has been asked many, many times but no-one seems to use 10W30 despite the US Supra guide showing it to be useful for the range of UK average temperatures. Ice

So how do you cope with the constant wintery salt/grit/sh*t mix thrown up by cars in front?! A few seconds of that and I can't see! Ice

yeah funny...! Actually the reason I ask is that when I got the car it was obviously filled up as the screen wash laster ages compared to when I refilled it with 6-pints later. I need to know so that I can fill it up without risking the screenwash going all over the battery! Ice

they seem to be thisty - from empty I add 6 pints of water/wash mix and still it wants more - how big is the windscreen wash tank? Ice

as I said mine's only done 36k miles but is a 93 car so I guess it could be worn...? or something else entirely perhaps Ice

for the absolute beginner on technical things can anyone explain: 1. what's a valve seal? 2. when they fail what happens? 3. how difficult are they to replace? 4. what would be the cost of replacing them? cheers, Ice

I got this the other day when it was freezing cold. Shortly after the regular white puffy exhaust came out (air con?). Didn't pay too much attention to it... should I be? My car's only done about 36,000 miles... Ice

The JPNZ translated handbook I have (thanx Steve Cargill) indicates that the MANU mode is for "slippery" road conditions. It basically locks the car in gear and prevents kickdown (though the turbos still spool if you press hard)... This is very useful when (like me this morning) you have to traverse ice coated countryside lanes. Although my average speed was 15mph at least my Supra survived (despite a couple of wobbles). Low grip original Jap tyres with borderline tread are making life even more interesting, combined with original 16" brakes that are worn out on the front... Deathtrap! Don't worry, I'm aiming to solve all, just need to get the money pit of Christmas out the way first... so 15 to 20mph it is for the next few weeks! Ice

My car sometimes tries to stall on cold mornings as the idle revs are well below normal and it sounds like the engine ain't firing properly. However if I immediately turn off then reignite the car it usually settles correctly - otherwise the car stalls when rolling in low gear out of my driveway. Why? Ice

how different are the top speeds of the 4-speed auto J-Spec? Ice

well this is what the wheels (rear) look like (thanx to NewEra who still show my car on the Sold Stock list): Dunno if that helps clarify anything or not! Ice

I'm thinking about this as my front brakes are getting a bit worn now. However my Supe's wearing 18" Vertec Manaray Sport alloys so will the UK brakes fit fine? Cheers, Ice

Does the back stepping out happen when cornering normally (off power) or when accelerating through a corner? I got a wiggle on once when on mud coming out of a minor bend when accelerating, and now I drive like a granny - single width country lanes coated in wet mud - not so much fun! Ice

I had something like that after I had an alarm fitted badly - disabled the immobiliser badly and the fuses kept blowing in the engine leading to no starts... in the end it transpired the useless alarm company had fitted the alarm wires THE WRONG WAY AROUND ("they're both black and I got confused"!). When that was sorted (and after a few more fuses) it was fine. Check the fuses just in case. Ice

I recently had a speedo conversion unit and turbo timer fitted. Now the speedo is about 10mph off at 30, 60 and 100mph. The needle rests just above 0 at stop too. Any advice on setting it back? My mate did the work and I've read it can be a pain to recalibrate the needle without one of those TRL things - but I'd like to use what I've already got if possible! Secondly, the tracking on the car was quite a long way out when I got it (had to hold the wheel at an angle to drive). Since then I had it tracked and aligned, but now the steering is really odd - hold it straight and it glides to the right, pull it to the left a fraction and it steers too far to the left - there appears to be no "dead zone"/middle position... any ideas? I also noticed that the indicator won't automatically turn off when taking junctions one way and is too happy to turn off when taking junctions the other way... could this be related to the steering? I feel that the steering isn't confidence building. I'm wondering if the front bolts underneath could need tightening too (as I'm getting a slight knocking at slow speeds - but I am wearing low profile Michelins with 17" alloys and Bilstein shocks). Where's best to get these things sorted out? Back at the place that did the tracking? At Toyota UK? Cheers in advance for any advice! P.S. I'm trying to find out the type of delimiter as my mate said it came unbranded from Amber Performance. Ice

it's okay, I drove like a granny since :-) I pumpted the tyres to 36 front, 34 rear as seems to be most peoples preference. Thing is I live down a bumpy track and I wonder if the tyres should maybe be lower pressure to take the daily rumble to and from work? Also the outside left front tyre has some cracking in the tyre wall which another thread says is bad. My mates keep telling me that the construction of Jap tyres isn't good enough for the UK too and that I should change them. I'm considering Goodyear F1's as they seem to have a good rap. Where's cheap to buy them/how cheap do they go (based on my tyre sizes I mentioned above)? as for traction control, currently I prefer it to do something rather than have me spinning like a top... I don't drive on overly busy roads so any traction control speed drop isn't a major worry. Maybe I'll do Race Logic later on... Otherwise cheers for the help guys! Now I just gotta sort out the annoying rattle from the boot: suspects are the loose boot trim and the infamous boot stoppers... Ice P.S. I own hundreds of racing games and so I instinctively reacted to the wobble - cheers go out to Grand Prix Legends/rally games etc...!

Justin, what size/type of tyres are yours? Ice

cheers, they came with the car! Ice