redline Rooster

Cool, cheers for the informantion guys!! - i'll definitly give it a look then!!!!!! cheers rooster :flame Dev

Terminator, yeah i was actually gonna fit a boost guage in the next few weeks - whats a EGT guage?!?!?! not sure what that stands for? haha yeah i still have my cats fitted. Thats another mod i'd like to do is remove them, but then theres the risk of blowing the Turbo oil seals isn't there!?!?!? rooster :flame Dev

Well so far I have done no engine mods at all yet! Thats my next phase!! hahaha So 1.2 bar is the safety limit for winding the stock boost then eh!?!? thats about 18PSI, whats the stock boost then? - i thought it was around 9 PSI or 0.7 BAR ??!!? i'd be looking for around 15 PSI boost i reckon then to start off with, then i'll go higher as the modding goes on!! cheers rooster :flame Dev

Robo, hahah no probs mate! - well if its the outer arches you can have the offset rediced on the alloys by having the hub mounts milled down, my mate with a Honda CRX had this done to his wheels as the offset would have been 6mm to large, now they fit like a dream!!! Rooster :flame Dev

Hi all, I know this may have been asked before, i did a search first but could really find the answer i was after - so here goes Basically i'm looking to increase the boost level of my stock turbos. Also mainly to increase the boost of the 1st turbo mainly as it could do with having more punch, also i wouldn't mind more boost in general. so what i'm asking is, is it quite straight forward to increase the overall boost, not by rediculous amounts just enough, or will i need to fit things like fuel cut defencers and higher fuel regualtors for this. I assumed if i was just going to wind the boost by a smallish amount i could get away with it!?!??! cheers for any info on this!!!! Rooster :flame Dev

hi robo, Yeah that sheet is cool!! - it look over complicated but gives a few examples for you - you just need to enter your tyre/wheel info in to the area marked "input your info here" I assumed your wheels would be 10.5" so basically the smallest offset you can have with 285/30 tyres is 48 - any smaller it'll scrub - really you want 50-52mm offsets to be in the clear - 55mm is as large as you can go or else you'll hit your outer arches!! well unless you trim them *yukky* normally the offset is on the inside of your alloys or near the rim as on the stock alloys!??!! L8R rooster :flame Dev

Hi roboldham, well seeing as your tyres are 18 285/30 then i guess your rims width is around 10.5 - 11" correct?!?! if so then you need an offset of at least 48 mm wo miss the inner arches - and smaller and you will grind the top most part of the inner arch as the suspension cambers more under load. I have an Excel spread sheet *see attached zip file* i was emailed a while ago when i was looking for my wheels - its very accurate too, try playing with a few values, you may just need to add spacers of like a few mm or so?!?! Hope this helps!!?!?!? L8r rooster :flame Dev supra wheels fitment.zip

yeah thats right - This morning i got my Bro to press the throttle to the floor *engine was off * and then i looked in the engine bay and tried to see if i could turn the throttle control any further by hand, but it wouldn't go any further, so it seems my cable even with the dead band is adjusted perfectly. Rooster :flame Dev

well seeing as the Supra box is computer controlled it should have a bit of saftey code in the software to realise that if it engages Reverse at more then 10MPH its gonna do damage!! so i would assume it'll default to neutral - still wouldn't wanna give it ago! ahhaha Also when shifting manually from neutral to Drive or d1, d2 you DONT need to press the button in, just push the lever - you only need to push the button when selecting reverse, as its a kind of mechanical saftey switch to stop you acidently selecting R when going forwards!! roost :flame Dev

Hi, Yeah i also have the same thing!! - when you look at the cables on the throttle body, both the throttle pedal cable and the cruise control cable have a bit of slack in them?!?! I thought this odd at first and was gonna play round with tightenijng them up!?!? - but if everyone seems to have the same thing then i guess its OK! - well as long as your getting full throttle which i think i am! hmmmm might have a play round with it!! the thing is with the Autos inparticular, if you remove this dead gap then when you floor it the throttle will be more open when the kick down is activated!! could be interesting if anyone has a play round telll us what its like!?! L8R Rooster :flame Dev

Yeah I believe the auto box ECU uses speed, rev and throttle position to determine when it should change - i guess a dodgy speed conversion would put this out a bit. roost :flame Dev

Matt, good point actually the Supras boxes are electronically controlled! - the old style full mechanical oil governed ones you dont want to do it in! - e.g F reg ford Granada!! :D still i wouldn't want to try it on a supra box!! haha roost :flame Dev

yeah you can leave it in 1st if you want, or just leave it in auto mode but put it in drive 2 - so the gear box is free to shift between 1st and 2nd depending on how much your giving it! the 1st gear is relativly short so usually, especially on grass i leave it in auto but in drive 2 - get a better spin that way! Power braking is the best way to start a good spin off, but like the other guys say dont do keep the brakes on with high revs for too long as the ATF gets hot quick! - I read somewhere that the manufactures rating for the max oil pressure in the auto torque converter can get to some 2000PSI!!!!!!! mad!! Power braking is definaly the best way to get a mint 0-60 too cheers rooster :flame Dev

Quote dmad "and im presuming the best option would be to rev in N and then wack it down to either D or L on full lock?" OUCH!!!! - i've seen the results of this first hand!!! - a few years back in College there was this old Fud Ganada auto *rusty old pig of a car* :p - anyway we thought it'd be funny to find out what happens when you rev and auto an pop it in drive! hmmm 1, Lots of oil every where 2, cracked gearbox casing 3, almight shreeking of slipping gear teeth!!! Although highly funny on the Granada you dont wanna do this to a Sup nooo way!!!! haha I have used the manu to manually shift the gears *its alot of effort though LOL!* - but it is good for doing donuts - lock it in 1st and control the revs :devil: I hate to admit doing things like that but what can i say Abeast of a RWD drive car one very wet field and a mate with a camcorder!! haha Rooster :flame Dev

WOW 36000 miles since 93 ! thats amazing!! i wish my car only had 36K on the clock!! haha Mind you it still drives like its only done 36K no rattles or anything feeling loose, the only niggle is the little puff at start up!! - luckily its still only very very faint, but still annoying!! I'm not sure why your car should be doing, as 36K is not very far, especially for a 3.0 engine hmmmm might be worth getting it looked at. roost :flame Dev