smithn05

Dont have the part numbers anymore but Toyota parts guys immediately knew of the problem and quoted part #'s without checking on the system. Only buy the bottom ones though the top ones are fine. Undo the 2 screws in each first though as they are VERY tight and you might knacker one or two of the screw heads and need some new ones too!! I ended digging around in my old spare screw drawers and fitting a manky old screw until I could get another one!!

Its French .... nuff said

Something I forgot to add, when whacking out a driveshaft etc leave the nut on just undo it until it is flush with the end of the shaft, it wont damage the thread then when you hit it, and even if it does you can undo the nut over the damaged thread and 'remake it'

Tidy up the thread on the new driveshaft would be my course of action. Once the driveshaft nut is on it will be past the 'bad' part of the thread (as long as it is just the first couple of threads or so) and will not have any adverse effect. Make sure you tidy the thread enough that the nut will screw on without any extra force otherwise you might end up knackering the thread on the nut with damage to the driveshaft as well. A crossthreaded driveshaft nut is NOT what you want!!

I used a couple of pieces of thin, cut cloth stuck to the top of the rubbers, stops them rubbing on the other stops (on the tailgate), the creaking comes from them rubbing. That lasted for about 12 months, then bought new ones. Buy new ones from Toyota (they are about £8-£10 each) and it stops it imediately (they have slightly redesigned them).

Based on that info ..... Problem when my car was newer ..... slow idle immediately after start !!!! Anything to be worried about?? Hehehe

I have noticed recently that my manual TT's fast idle, when cold, seems a bit higher than it used to do (1400-1600 rpm immediately after starting). Also occasionally the rpm seems high when warm (1200 ish), although more often than not its 650 as it should be. I remember it used to be very well controlled from cold through to hot with and without a/c on, with rpm never over 1000. I have had the car for about 6 years now and done around 100k in it (136k in total on the clock), I guess it started happening about 20k ago. Otherwise it drives fine, anything to worry about? Or ideas?

Have used mytyres.co.uk, they are cheap but you still need to get them fitted. Blackcircles.com seemed to be as cheap but include fitting at a tyre fitter of your choice (that are registered with them). I used them for my rears recently and the service was excellent. Check them out with this link and if you buy any I get a small backhander!!!!! http://www.blackcircles.com/order?_cmdexec=referral&pcode=1E419645&cid=NS00100153

Cheers guys, im off to put on me gauntlets and wander round B&Q, should get a few odd looks

Cool, whereabouts are you based? and how much does it cost? Guess really I should have done this before the winter instead of freezing through it ;-)

For a while my TT's heater has been next to useless. Very little heat output if any. Have checked the diagnostics on the A/C system, no faults. All the servos etc also sound fine and operate as they should. Cleaned out the coolant system, and specifically flushed out the heater core (which seemed OK). Anyone with any ideas? Have noticed on the workshop manual there is a valve on the top of the heater core, not sure how this is operated though as a/c manual makes no mention of it? Is it some kind of thermostat and could be at fault?? Dont really want to pull the dash out if im on a wild goose chase!!! HELP!!