SupraTT

Said that Flywheel really only *needs* to be replaced if its cracked . defaced / scored badly Michael PS....But do i really need this £40 hub ?????

Got a not bad price on a OE Toyota Job and went with that, but what i would like to ask now is, they told me i needed the Clutch Disk, Plate/Cover, Bearing, Pilot Bearing and some sort of "hub" that the bearing goes into !? Do i actually need the "hub" replaced as well, or are they just after an easy £45 extra for the part not needed. Also how much on average should it cost me to get replaced ? Cheers Michael

Ok thanks, Does anyone have a part number for the clutch or recommend anywhere else besides Toyota that i can go to ? Michael

Can someone please tell me if the UK MKIV 6Spd TT clutch is the same as whats needed for a J-Spec TT6 ? Also what EXACTLY needs to be replaced ? pressure plate and clutch assembly obviously, but what about spigot bearings / throwout bearings ? "snap rings" !?! etc ? Its all very confusing :o( I believe i really only need to replace the clutch plates and spigot bearing from what i have read in an earlier post ? Thanks Michael

Erm settle down Mycroft dude !! Jeeeez.......

How often do you see an ELF petrol station on your daily travels though ? :o(

3p a litre cheaper for Normal UL ??? Damn we are getting ripped off here in Scotland !! typical ! :o(

Does anyone know if the supra has a self adjusting clutch cable or is it adjusted like any other ? Stupid question probably ??? Michael

OK some of you will no doubt disagree here, but i have been looking into the whole MINES ECU and tuning / mapping thing for 4-5 weeks now and have come up with some VERY interesting information that some of you will like / not like. A friend of mine up here who imports Japanese Cars to the UK put me in touch with one of his friends who is based down south. This guy down south is himself Japanese and is now based over here permanently for the time being, and is the Main sole Official UK agent for MINES VX ROM ECU and Product range of equipment as well as other tuning parts. He is a very very intelligent guy and has been in this line for what i believe is well over a decade and knows "whats what and whats not" in the world of Japanese Cars. I have been in discussion with him for a few weeks now regarding the MINES ECU that came fitted to my J-Spec when i got it, and he is currently awaiting information on the ecu to be faxed / e-mailed back from Japan so that we can start getting somewhere with this relatively "unknown" ECU to us here in the UK. He asked me for a list of my modifications and said that it shouldnt be a problem with the re-mapping etc, and we are now just awaiting word back from Japan to find out the exact specification of this certain ECU. More importantly, i asked him about having it re-mapped to run on UK fuel without the need for addition of an Octane Booster etc. I was surprised at his reply !...... He stated in no uncertain terms that there is NO NEED to have 95% of Japanese Origin ECU's remapped to run on 97/98 RON fuel because the fuel in Japan to this day, is the SAME quality and Octane Rating as UK fuel if not WORSE ! He stated that from his time spent tuning cars in Japan, that 95% of the road cars are mapped to approx. 97 RON and when you drive into a petrol forecourt in Japan, 7 out of the 8 pumps will be the equivalent of out Super Unleaded here, and nothing stronger, while the other two will be maybe 99/100 octane, but this is in like 10-15% of the fuel stations only. He is adamant that the cars over there are set to run on the same fuel as the UK and that this whole "102 RON in Japan" etc is a myth which has escalated into something far too big. A few guys here have had bad experiences where they have purchased highly tuned cars from Japan and have HAD to be mapped to over 100 Octane, such as 450BHP Skylines / Supra's etc. And because they ran on UK Unleaded without knowing the cars ultimately went bang, and the owners blamed crappy RON rated UK Fuel. This has escalated into something which now strikes fear into 99% of Japanese Import Owners unnecessarily. He asked me to mention this to anyone who had any doubts, and IMHO with him coming from Japan himself, and basically knowing more than any of us will EVER know i would tend to believe him. I am now listening to this guy and this guy ONLY on whats the proper way to go about avoiding a "Big Bang" as he knows everything worth knowing, and if he doesnt he gives 110% effort to find it out for me. I know a lot of you will doubt what i have said here, but like i said he is the SOLE official agent for MINES product range, and is trying to set himself up here in order to get the product a better reputation outside of Japan, and he basically doesnt say something he doesnt think is going to help. So what does everybody think ? I for one think that people like this are few and far between over here, and we need more Japanese to be helping us out like this with our "unknown" MINES modifications to an extent. Michael

I take it that you didnt need to replace the flywheel then ? I heard that this "has" to be done as well but wasnt convinced.... Arent there any import places in the UK that can supply at a decent price ?

Simple one this time folks...... Wheres the best and cheapest place to get a clutch for a MKIV J-Spec TT from ? Nothing over the top but no crap things either, and any prices / contact numbers would be excellentay too ! ;o) Cheers Michael

I was wondering if anyone out there has a 97/98 or newer MKIV Supra, the problem i have is that i ordered clear front indicators for my 93 TT and the bulb connectors are different. I went into Toyota today and asked if the 97/98 had similar connectors that i need, and first of all i need the Chassis and Frame number from a 97 onwards MKIV for them to access the computer to get a breakdown of connectors and parts. So i am hoping someone will be kind enough to post, or e-mail me off list if preferred, their Chassis and Frame number so that i can get started on getting the connectors needed. Thanks a lot in advance Michael

Cool I have mailed u direct, can u reply when u get 2 secs ? Cheers Michael

Hi all I just received delivery of a set of clear front lights from my friend in the USA, and wondered if anyone has fitted them to their pre 97 MKIV ? Do i need to chop the wires / connectors for the indicators or will they just go in bearing in mind i have a 1993 ? Whats more interesting is the fact that the lights have two sections, one larger than the other and i would like to make one section my sidelights if possible ? Can this be done and whats involved ? is it an easy job and also do i do away with my current "internal headlight" mounted sidelights or can i end up using the existing one in there and also hook up one in my clear indicator lights below the headlight ? Any advice appreciated Cheers Michael

Yep as far as i am aware the ABS works at all times.... i have just been out in the car again and its the same....about 5mph or therabouts, and its coming on for a split second just as i come to a stop. Whether i am turning or in a straight line. Its actually quite annoying as the girlfriend keeps hearing it and saying "whats that noise, what was that" again and again and it actually is quite annoying when it comes on. Funny thing is that i havent actually seen the light coming on for the ABS when it does happen, but i couldnt be 100% sure on that. Would me having a new front ABS sensor fitted have anything to do with it ? Could it be having any adverse effects !? Come on guys hit me with the knowledge !! NEED HELP !!

About 2 months ago my ABS light was on on my dash and my ABS was non existent, so i had the front drivers side ABS Sensor replaced and the light went out and ABS was back again.....simple. But over the past 3-4 days i have noticed that when i am moving slowly like 5mph or so and brake gently the ABS sometimes comes on (feeling through the pedal) just as i come to a standstill more or less now and again. It is more obvious when i am braking and the steering wheel is turned slightly at the same time, like when i am coming out across a junction and stopping to wait to pull out with wheel turned maybe 1/2 - 3/4 a turn. Its nothing severe, just a split second judder of the ABS on the brake pedal but like i said it has only been in the last few days and is maybe 20-30% of the time. I am not stamping on the brakes nor am i at speed, and it is fine at all other times, but just when i come to a stop or standstill, the split second before the wheels stop rolling i feel it. Any ideas ?? Michael

Hi Guys If any of you have got any sort of FMIC on your TT MKIV, especially APEXi or HKS, whats the chances of you finding out the exact dimensions and mounting points of it ? I ask because there is a company up here who specialise in making up custom stuff like this for race applications and the like, and are willing to make from scratch if they can get the necessary info such as dimensions / mounting points / core details and entry / exit pipe widths and lengths. This could be a good opportunity for a lot of people to get a good quality FMIC at a hell of a lot cheaper than what HKS etc charge !! Has anyone got any info from theirs ? fitting instructions ? diagrams ? drawings ? Any and all help appreciated as always Michael

Everyone says that as a rule of thumb, you shouldnt "ideally" run more than 1.2 Bar Boost on a J-Spec because of the dangers of the Turbo blades breaking, being made of Ceramic as opposed to UK Spec steel. What i want to know is has anyone actually had this happen or what views do you have on this ? What boost is everyone running their J-Spec with Stock Turbos at ? Michael

Ok here goes... My J-Spec MKIV TT has a part missing ( ok i lost it when changing plugs ). You know when you remove the coil pack to reveal the two plugs, theres the two electrical connectors on top of each pack ? Well the two wires that go into each side of each coil pack are held in place by a small small small white clip type thing to prevent the wires from coming out / shorting, and i have lost one ! Anyone got a spare one or know what the P/N is ? Can i get it off any Toyota from a breakers ? Cheers Michael

Having been offered a set of Eibach lowering springs for a MKIV, I am trying to determine first of all if there is a difference in the following:- My car is a 1993 MKIV J-Spec TT and has the factory Toyota Bilsteins fitted, the question i have is.....are the Eibach springs that you can buy different for the J-Spec to the UK spec or are they all just supplied the same set when ordered ? Reason i ask is that i am unsure if the shockers are Bilsteins / different on UK cars to Japanese ? does anyone know if they will go straight on or are there two different sets for all variations of the MKIV ? Cheers for any help Michael

Steve Cargill can you mail me direct at [email protected] please as i would like to discuss this warranty you have.....it sounds kind of similar !? Cheers Michael

Cant you only get done with slander if you post something untrue resulting in daffemation of character ?? They said that the Engine Fault Codes dont match up with their diagnostics because Import MKIV codes are different ? is this true ? Hence why they reckon it took them 45 mins to chack all the voltages at the wheel sensors. The guy was shoving the job card in my face however, and i caught a glimpse of what i "thought" looked like something saying something about a Fault Code 36 ??? would that be right ???? whats 36 ???? But if the diagnostics are different then how could they get a fault code 36 and know what it meant ?????? I am lost....... The buggers are trying to take me for whetever they can get and they know it, To simplify this i have made it easier :- 1) Are fault codes different on UK Cars to J-Spec ?? 2) How much is a new ABS Wheel sensor ? 3) How easy is it and where is it located ? 4)When all you guys take your car to Toyota do they charge you for looking for the fault alone ???? Cheers guys M

PS....Where abouts are the wheel sensors located and could it be needing cleaned if possible !? or does low voltage if thats the problem mean its goosed ????

Ok for anyone about to read this thread....sit down first cos its long !!! My ABS light on my MKIV TT J-Spec has been on lately, first when i start the ignition then it goes out,then 5 secs later it stays on permanently / either that or it just stays on when i turn on ignition all the time. I took it to Toyota today, and they thought it would be a wheel sensor, so they checked the voltages to each wheels sensor and "thought" it was either the front or rear passenger side one. So fairs fair they contacted the warranty company and they agreed that the ABS System was covered by warranty and that they would pay for the new sensor, BUT they would also only pay for half an hours labour which is what they say is the maximum time it should take to replace, fair enough i said. But NO NO NO Arnold Clark Toyota in Aberdeen, said that because of this, they now wanted ME to pay them £98 for the supposed 2HOURS that it took to check the voltage to the sensors and diagnose the fault !!! I mean 2 hours ?????? After an almighty row i asked the guy to explain to me how it could possibly take two hours, and he said "Fair enough it may not take two hours, but we ESTIMATE diagnosing an ABS fault SHOULD take two hours ?!!?" So in actual fact, i then managed to find out from one of the mechanics on the sly, that the guy actually only spent like 45 mins getting a fault code and checking the voltage on the sensor to diagnose the fault. BUSTED !! I told the guy this without mentioning any names of mechanics, and he was stumped. He then admitted that it maye have taken "less" than the two hours they wanted me to stump up for, BUT if i didnt pay them two hours inspection money ( @£49 an hour!!!!! ) then they would not be repairing my car and didnt want to work on it EVER AGAIN !!!!! nice eh ? The guy couldnt look me in the eye, and i asked why i was being forced to pay 2 hours supposed inspection charges for 45 mins work MAX and he just couldnt find a way out of it. This resulted in me being handed my keys and told to sod off ..... albeit with my car unrepaired. Incidentally, this is the same company who diagnosed a front end knocking noise as an upper wishbone at £450 !! and the warranty company paid for that to be fitted, only for the noise to return and it was found to actually be a dodgy drop link for about £35 !!!! They basically have no ability to work on these vehicles and it shows. But being the only Toyota garage within a zillion miles of me, i am forced to go there for warranty work and parts. What does everyone think i should do about this? Pay the £98 and be ripped off AGAIN by this dealership, or what ???? Also how hard is it to fit an ABS wheel sensor ? and do thay all have the same part number for each wheel ? cos if they do then i will get it myself and fit it myself and they can bugger off ? Does anyone have a part number for an ABS Wheel sensor please ?? I am sick of being taken for a fortune by this place just because my car is an "Import" and surely charging £98 "inspection" fees is beyond a joke ?? I mean £30-40 fair enough but £98 ???? It seems to me like they are just wanting to skin this job for as much money as possible out of me and the warranty company ! Can someone offer a part number / advice please ?? Cheers Michael

The exhaust is from the Cats back and splits into two huge pipes and then back into one at the back box