Matti85

Will come to UK to buy another supra, my supes need to have the Top seacret or Do luck front bumper, since shipping cost alot and is risky i want to buy one of these before i come to UK. I want it prepped and sprayed, and then make it ready to fitt when im there in just a few hours of wait time (since the boat will depart next day) Any Dealers of workshop that can do this, or recommendations ? At the southern/middle UK.

haha funny post.

They say its a small device installed at the harness behind the dash, so in order to get the car back to km, speedo and odo. Then i just remove it from the harness right ?

Pic

I got heavy 19" on mine, and my steering is so light i first thought there is something wrong with it, like air, no resistence at all, very smooth.

My car is 93 mate, and as for my SMIC its brand new, the aluminium one from MiamiGT.

I got Greedys BCC alredy fitted, thing is i think i would feel if it goes over 1 bar, since diffrence between that and 1.2+ is huge apprently, so how can i overboost if i dont feel it ? I hopped i would not need to buy a Controler to raise boost since its a jspec and should reach more then 1.2 when decatted. But i guess im that unlucky million that acutally need a controler to up the boost on my car.

as i hitted fuelcut before fitting FCD, i now know how it feels, so no i dont hit fuel cut anymore, it jsut does not go past 1 bar. Gaz, what do you mean control your boost or it will knacker the engine ?

No boost controller, ill check all hoses before taking it out again. But you all agree with me that i relly should go above 1 bar, since it being a jspec, steel blades in turbos but thats all. ECU alwyas reset after removing - pole on battery, and i always do that before doing any mechanical with the car.

Before i fitted the decat pipes, i hit fuelcut, i tryed this out 4 times, hited fuelcut everytime. Now ive fitted the FCD, took it out for a test drive, hit the throttle, boost goes to 0.5 bar, and then 1 bar when second comes in. I let go of the throttle and pushed it down again later, now it went only to 0.5 bar. Took the car back to garage, opend the hood and saw one of the smaller vacum pipes loose, put it back and fitted a clip on it. Now i took the car out again, hit the throttle, and the car did the same, 0.5 bar and 1 bar when second comes in, then i pushed again, and nothing happens, no boost at all. Back to garage, opend hood and see that one of the Bigger lower ic pipes is all loose. Now i removed all ic pipes, will give them a clean and put new clips on them and tight them like hell. But man, should it be so hard. And whats up with the 1 bar thing, why do the pipes come loose after the FCD fitting and not before, maybe it overboost and gauge cant keep up, but shouldnt i feel it then, it feelt just like 1 bar. Ive been told i will feel the diffrence between 1 bar and 1.2 and that i did not so i dont thing it did overboost. So i thought all jspecs will overboost after decated, ive not even fitted a ring, dont need to if it cant get above 1 bar ? Was looking forward to 1.2 bar.

Anyone now what these are ?, figuer its for the alarm. But want that confirmed. One on each side of the roof.

As topics says, not only that but ive also not tested the car except starting it and run it some seconds. Ive now changed to IK24 for compensation of removing the cats, ive changed the coilpacks connectors as well, since 2 of them just broke on me. Although i had to solder back those 2, insted of breaking the actuall connectors to get hold of the clips, i cut the wires, and then an expert told me how it should have been done (breaking them), so i rewirred them back and put them in the new ones i bought, changed all 6 now. I will now test the car later tonight for first time since i did all these mods, but what im worried about is the connectors, what can i expect for symptoms if my connectors are badly done by myself (the soldiering), although im sure ive done it good. Just want to make sure what to expect when i test the car.

PMd mate

What material is the ring made off, Copper or Plate. Dont know if Copper can handle the temprature that the exhaust comes up to, so figure it have to be plate. In case i try to make one myself

That would be Nikemo for a guy, and Sharmota for a girl =)

Thanks, sorry if i overreacted, my problem is solved, was a faulty BCC. Dude in pic looked like a joke, did not know he was a celeb here.

I dont know who that funny guy in the pic is, im from scandinavia and so is he. And yes its MKIV we talk about.

Is that meant to laugh about or to make me look like a fool ? He built an 8 sec supra, and several 10 sec cars for customers, Ive now reason to doubt his words, maybe he found something you missed for 13 years on these cars. Everything is possible, be happy for new knowledge insted of laughing at it. If their method works or not i dont know, ive got a new BCC and my problem is solved so i wont keep pursuing this. But they obviously can adjust the idling (after reading several threads), i dont think they would do that and let the ECU readjust itself, maybe they got a diffrent method. Ive posted a question and will get back if i get answer.

Maybe the threads was about the Thor unit mine is Greedy, but dont say that BCC and idling problem dont exist, Chris just agreed that all of his 4 units messed up his idling, regardless if it was Thor, thats a BCC to. Im curious to about how to clean the idle control valve, where is it located ? I was told about adjust idling after BCC install from Scandinavian forums and expert. But have seen threads here to about idling probs after BCC install, don remember if they posted the how to solve the issue though, can digg up and repost them later.

After a lot of reading it seems BCC and change in idling after is a common thing, BCC is working as it should btw.

Are y sure about this, as i was told to adjust the idling a bit after a BCC install, by a guy that do his living on fixing supras. Forgot to ask where in the enginge to adjust it though.

Would like a pic of where at the engine i can adjust the idling of the car, since its idling low after BCC install.

I went for Densos IK 24, after some reading that they are the best, made of Iridium but cost much.

You mean the top cover or the cam cover, either way i cant understand how a plastic cover can leak oil A better explination would be that maybe the crankcase vent hoses leak all that oil, but they were fine and sealed. So the plugs seem fine to you then, no need for me to worry ?

Just changed to my new IK 24 after doing the decat and FCD. Its my first time i change spark plugs my self, therefore i have somequestions. Spark plug nummer 1 and 3 seemed fine, but the rest, specially 2,5 and 6 was all dark and soked with oil, nummber 4s chamber even had plastics inside that prevented me from geting the T torch around it, so i had them all cleaned with papper and removed all fragments before i put the new ones in. Here is pic, left is first one and right is last. And here they are with flash so you can see the gap (random here) And last what do you call these ones, that are ontop of what i thing is called the coilpacks, 2 of these fell of and i need to buy new ones, dunno what they are called though.