XtSupra

I am sure I can do that. but how tho?? I have no paypal account, I will read the FAQ and see if I can find a nother way. RICHIE S, thanks a lot for the welcoming.

what's that? 10er ?????? you lost me man

Ok guys, yet another update, could that be the problem. I just checked my O2 sensor reading with a voltmeter and got the following at idle 0.0 volts (using the diagnosis port), I then I hooked up A/F gauge (Automemter led gauge) in the car just to see if I get any reading while driving. I would get no gauge reading at anything less than 2k rpm, then the leds would bounce like how it should, then when I step on it, it stops at the 2nd green led from the yellow leds (not too rich). so does that mean I have faulty O2 sensor, or I am just hardly getting any fuel to be read at idle????? also, My 2 weeks old Sard EGT went south on me, while I was installing and uninstalling my S-AFC, it just decided to start reading at 800C and go from there as it warms/heats up. I got greddy EGt to replace it tho (damn does it ever end)

thanks guys. I just installed S-AFC to see if it's going to help, and it did not well it's funny really, it's like the moment I hooked up it power, gound, TPS, and RPM, and decided to start the car before hooking up the MAF sensor wire and she would have very hard time starting. and before I unhooked it, I decided to fully install it and see if adding fuel will help, and as I mentioned before, it did not help at all. so the S-AFC is going off tomorow (since it makes the car very hard to start) even without hooking the MAF sensor regarding the exhaust, I have no cats and I have restrictor ring mounted between the downpipe and the cat-back. by the way, how would I check the fuel pressure by the rail? is there like a gauge that I buy from toyota to do that, or I will have to make my own connection before before the fuel rail? thanks guys for all the help. Ahmed

thanks Ian, I will do that now as a matter of fact. here is the thing, she runs perfectly. I mean no hesitaions, or loading up, hell some times when turbos kick in in 3rd gear she would break the tires loose(and I am talking Blitz 18x10 with 275/35/18 tires) and she also does that in 2nd gear almost always. ummm maybe I just have a FU$ked up EGT. one more thing please guys, I am trying to install S-AFC and narrow band A/F gauge, I know that A/F gauge is not the best, but that's all what I have (already in had from my other car) and the problem is. the ECU digrams that I got from MKIV.com does not match what I have, so I took the part number out and searched on the net and it says that's an OBD-I ECU for 83-95 TT MT models, can anyone point me to that kind of ECU digram, or tell me the pins location on the socket???? thanks a lot guys, you have been always a great help.

little update. I checked the voltage going to the pump while the car at idle and it showed 12 volts (hence, 12v pump mod has been done) and after reading a couple of post in here where everyone almost agrees that this mod is usless (especially with out a relay) I undid the mod and fired her up. she idles a lot better now (steadier) I went for a little ride, and the original problems is still there (I knew that was not going to solve that, but I had to try). I also put the stock filter back just to see if that's going to help, and nope, same thing. I also crused at around 80MPH and my EGTs were 650-700C (probe mounted in the down pipe), Pig just reminding you bro. so I am left with 3 things at least. - the injectores are full of crap and not spraying like they should. - the fuel pressure regulator is not doing its job as it should (when these go bad, does the car run way to rich or lean?) - The ECU is messed up. what you guys think.

thanks Ian, I am actually not trying to tune yet, I am just worried that I blow her up. here is an intersting concept that I found at http://mkiv.supras.org. "Do not go for cams of too high a duration for a road car as turbo'd cars work very well with cams that do not have too high an overlap. This is because too much overlap (which is when both the inlet and exhaust valves are open at the same time) will result in air and fuel coming in through the inlet valves and going straight out the exhaust valves before they close. This will result in high exhaust temperatures (BAD) and less power (BAD) and more fuel consumption (who cares). A maximum of 272deg is the most you should run on a street Supra and even then you will get poor idling, but very good flow at high rpm". could that be it? I mean my cams are pretty damn wild. what you guys think. I am actually using the TB butterfly stopper to raise the idle a bit so the car will not rattle that much (wild cams do that) so maybe the above is true? what you guys think? should I try to trard or advace the cams, if so which cam to retard and which to advance? agian, I am not sure what cams I do have in there should I take the valve cover off and see if the cams are stamped? sorry for the huge amount of questions, I am just about to pull my hair off because of that. thanks thanks a lot pig, I will try to remind you.

the fuel pressure is stock. here is what I have, untill I get a picture that is. - K&N filter mounted on the Maf. - After market cams (not sure what brand are they, but they are pretty wild), HKS cam gears - Greddy FMIC with HKS BOV - greddy FCD set at 4.28 volts - decat and catback that's it really

thanks Nic, but I did replace the fuel filter along with the pump today. oh and Pig, that's cold bro here it more like 28C and that's considered cold.

Pig, I feel a lot better now just kidding bro, I know something is wrong with my damn supra, but what I have no idea. what kindda temps do you have where you live?

Nic, the FMIC looks to be in a good condition. it's not that easy to find good tuning shops here. actually 2 weeks ago I took the car to a shop to mount my BOV (have it welded to IC piping) and just today I found out that for some reasons decided to drill a hole in my IC pipe (yes it was not there when I took it to him) so I welded that up and got more boost creep, so I put a smaller restirector ring (2") and that stopped my boost creep and droped my boost to 0.7 bar. so I can't really trust shops here. but I will try to find a shop with dyno tho. I will try to run the silver STP injector cleaner and see if that helps. if that does not work, I guess I will go ahead and get bigger injectors, and use AFC to lean them a bit. Nic, do you know if there is any 650 injectors for UK specs supras that will fit directly to the stock fuel rail? or anyone else in that matter. thanks a lot people

Guys, you are beyond awsome. so after reading your replies, I ran again to the car with my flash light (it's around 10 pm here), took the first injecotr connector off, looked again and .......... Alex you are right, some dirt with lilac color sure turns it into gray and I did check and found 2 electric boxes mounted on the shock mounting bolts (I guessing that this is the resistor pack) so I have UK specs after all ok but why in the hell I am getting high EGTs with UK specs car I am sure cams have some to do with that. ok guys, so what are my options now, to get more fuel that is. bigger injectors or FPR? I feel that I really have to add more fuel, running that high EGTs with only 0.7 to 0.8 bar is just not right. pig, we really have to do something about that. one last thing, will cooler spark plugs run cooler EGTs, and if yes by how much. thanks

Ok, here is an Update. The car is suposdly a UK, the VIN and everything else says that. but after a little search here about injectores, and found out that UK/USA injectores are purple/lilic, and the Japs are gray, I went to the car to see what kinds of injectoes that I have, and guess what, they are gray :thumbdown I also remember when was putting the greddy FCD that almost all ECU wires were cut and welded back again (wires going to the ECU had different color wires than the ones going to the harness (engine side). so I am thinking the guy blew the original motor and got a jap spec to replace it and rewired the ECU to work with the jap motor (how can I tell what kind of engine do I have?) I remember once I forgot to plug the maf sensor, and let the car idle for a minute or so, and it was smoking like hell (kindda tells me at least I have UK ECU) anyway, so I think I have UK specs shell and ECU, and I have Jap-specs injectores and maybe engine (any pointers on how to know for sure) and I need more fuel cause I am getting high EGTs (bigger injectores) any help?????????? please

Flash back, I bought my 95 TT MY UK/US specs like a month ago. I bought it from a used car dealer, the car has been modified (but the freaken dealer does not know crap about it) so far it's got Cams, (not even know what kind, but they are kindda wild), Apexi cat back, and a full decate. when I got here, it had vac/boost leaks everywhere, now that I got all of that fixed, she is running pretty damn sweat, but the EGTs seem a bit too high for my taste. today I managed to go WOT in 4th gear and my damn EGTs went all the way to 800C (the probe is mounted in the down pipe so I guessing that's more like 950C-1000C. so I went and got me a brand new supra pump (UK specs) thinking that the one the car has is getting old and not pumping enough. so I did that, and I am still getting the exact EGTs, so I dropped the boost all the way to 0.7 bar (using restrictor ring) and I am still getting very close to 800C EGTs in 4th gear. this is with stock turbos and greddy FMIC. bear in mind the car kindda old and I have no clue what cams does it have, and not sure what the ex owner has done to it. so what's next, I have S-AFC in my other car, should I try that (by the way, since it's UK specs, I should hook it up to the MAF sensor and not MAP right?), but again, if I am getting high EGTs, I guessing my injectors are already at its max, so AFC might not help, what you guys think? the weather here is kindda cold (when I got 800C EGTs temps were (29C-32C). should I get bigger injectors, if yes what size (will be using that with my S-AFC to trim it down low), or maybe get adjustable FPR? if so what brand.? oh I also changed the fuel filter along with the new pump just to let that out of the way. your help guys will be greatly appreciated. thanks

looking good bro, but I think it could use less red in there. I think if you kept the leather hand-brake and shifter black we well as the passenger air back and maybe the plastic panels in the door were also kept black, it would have looked a bit better. but overall, it's a well done job.