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Crank pulley bolt, what am I doing wrong?


Shane

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OK I need to change my water pump so therefore I need to get the pulley and timing belt off.

 

I made a tool like all the various ones shown in the previous threads and broke a socket. As it was a crap cheap one that turned on the points, I borrowed a half decent one that turned on the flats....it broke.

 

Went out and bought a decent impact safe socket and then broke the tool.

 

Made another tool, this time beefier and then then the 2 bolts between the tool and the pulley broke.

 

Manged to get them out replacing them with nice strong toughend ones and then broke the stub off my bar whilst also ripping one of the bolts out of the crank pulley.

 

Rang a bloke I know who has a garage, "no problem" he says, bring it over and the air gun will soon shift that.

 

It didn't, neither did the gun from the garage next door which was brand new and 6 bar.

 

"no problem" he says, we will use the starter to do it, wedges a bar on the chassis while I crank it and the bar just bowed and the starter stopped.

 

Now he says the only way he can think I can do it is to somehow wedge something into the flywheel and use a long bar on the front.

 

Is this ok, could it cause stresses on the crank?

 

Any suggestions?

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Flywheel locking tools are commonly used for this; I had to use one on my Fiat for the same thing after a garage failed to remove the pulley bolt. I brought it home, made a small tool and bingo.

 

Doesn't even need to be very hefty either, just securely locked in place :)

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Flywheel locking tools are commonly used for this; I had to use one on my Fiat for the same thing after a garage failed to remove the pulley bolt. I brought it home, made a small tool and bingo.

 

Doesn't even need to be very hefty either, just securely locked in place :)

 

Mate, I have made two pulley locking tools today, one using flat section MS and another using box section. The first one was not up to the job and the second was ok but the weakest link was the bolts into the pulley and then the thread in the pulley itself. Just worried that with the obvious force that is going to be required will it shag my crank.

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Had the same problem mate i managed to get mine of with loads of tears sweat and blood lol.If i mind right i put the car in gear then slipped a hollow bar over the ratchet(old washing line pole i think)then went mental on it with a big hammer and it came off.

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I had to use an old washing line pole on a strong breaker bar and a crank pully locking tool (thanks to uk-Rich) to get enough leverage on mine... I also snapped the two bolts that screw into the pully, they need to be really strong. If I had to change the crank pully again I think I'd rather pay someone else for the hassle its caused me :)

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Mate, I have made two pulley locking tools today, one using flat section MS and another using box section. The first one was not up to the job and the second was ok but the weakest link was the bolts into the pulley and then the thread in the pulley itself. Just worried that with the obvious force that is going to be required will it shag my crank.

 

I meant I made a flywheel locking tool ;)

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how are you people breaking the bolts that hold the tool on lol? i use the proper sst prob once a week and as garethr pic shows, the black metal part bolts on tight to the crank so no movment in the bolts. if the tool u have made is bending the bolts as it not flat on a serface i would sort that out 1st as you are loosing undoing power through it.

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I found the best way to do this is make a long bar and stop the flywheel from moving, obviously you have to remove the box but you can use the clutch locating pins on the flywheel and also the gearbox holes on the block to stop the thing spinning, its quite a task to remove as the keys on the shaft hold in in very firm, i broke numerous ones on my 1965 montessa trials bike, using the same keys on the main shaft that hold the magneto.

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how are you people breaking the bolts that hold the tool on lol? i use the proper sst prob once a week and as garethr pic shows, the black metal part bolts on tight to the crank so no movment in the bolts. if the tool u have made is bending the bolts as it not flat on a serface i would sort that out 1st as you are loosing undoing power through it.

 

Yes you are right, this is the problem. Assuming you have the tool, would you rent/lend it out to me for the weekend??

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I ended up welding a socket onto mine and getting it out (using the tool) whilst it was still hot as hell - discovered about 1 inch of the thread was covered in threadlock:(

 

Chris,

 

I read your thread from when you had problems when I was searching through the various posts on the subject. So far, the bolt head is ok, but it is looking a bit tired now and just hope I can get it off before it goes the same way as yours.

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I had th same problem and marksupra lent me his home made one, We bolted it on resting it on a block of wood on the side iof the inner wheel arch. Then put a socket on it and threaded a scoffold pole ocver this. Quietly applied pressure and it cracked off. This after the garage had failed with various air hammers and ewanted to go in through the flywheel.

 

pm Mark as I covered the ups cost of gettting it there and back and he was bloody marveloous, the kit was perfect for the job.

All the best with it.

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I meant I made a flywheel locking tool ;)

 

Yeh I realised what you were saying. So do you think it is ok to stress the crank in this way? I realise that the engine produces much more power and torque than I am ever going to come near to putting through the crank in this way but that is done in a much more managed way don't you think? Maybe I am being paranoid, it just seems extreme to have to do it in this way.

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I had th same problem and marksupra lent me his home made one, We bolted it on resting it on a block of wood on the side iof the inner wheel arch. Then put a socket on it and threaded a scoffold pole ocver this. Quietly applied pressure and it cracked off. This after the garage had failed with various air hammers and ewanted to go in through the flywheel.

 

pm Mark as I covered the ups cost of gettting it there and back and he was bloody marveloous, the kit was perfect for the job.

All the best with it.

 

OK will try that, thanks.

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is the car still driving? if it is i would drive to the nearest lexus dealer who should have the tool and give them like £15-20 just to undo the bolt. it will only take them 10 min to put it on a ramp and crack it off.

 

Is that right? I recall having to take the rad and fan off first to get at it. Maybe there is enough roon to get the tool on and the wrench....

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