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How To: Change the cambelt (93 J Spec TT Auto)


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1993 J spec TT Automatic trans. Cambelt change.

 

With the help of a manual from CJ :D

 

Parts needed:

 

Part no. 13568-49036. C3F1 Timing belt

Part no. 08889-80002. A1G1 Coolant – 2 x 5 litres.

 

Special tools needed:

Special tool to lock crankshaft pulley. (Home made)

Special tool to remove crankshaft pulley from crankshaft. (Home made)

Special tool to remove cambelt pulley from crankshaft. (Gear Puller)

 

Also added an 8mm Tap and wrench to the kit so that the threads in the crank pulley can be cleared out as they become clogged with dirt over time.

 

If any one needs to borrow the tools for locking the crankshaft pulley and removing crank pulley, PM me.

 

If anyone wants to buy the tools, I will make more as and when they are requested, again PM me for a price.

 

 

Raise car and support on axle stands. Engine should be cold.

 

Disconnect battery. Remove battery and battery tray.

3 bolts-10mm socket.

 

Remove engine under cover. 10mm socket

 

Remove No.2 air tube including bracket, don’t remove bracket from pipe.

 

Loosen bottom radiator hose and drain coolant into a bucket.

 

Important: Do not let coolant escape into drains. Pour in to another container and dispose of at your local oil disposal.

 

Remove air cleaner duct and No. 5 air hose. Top radiator hose and overflow pipe.

 

Disconnect electric fan and water temp switch plugs

Carefully remove wiring loom from radiator shroud.

 

Remove electric fan assembly.

Remove radiator shroud.

 

Disconnect Auto trans fluid cooler pipes from radiator and plug off. A couple of clean 10mm drill bits (shank end) will plug the pipes.

 

Remove top clamps holding radiator and remove rad. May need a very gentle tap from underneath to free it. Carefully lift out taking care not to damage the core mesh.

 

Remove drive belt, fan and fluid coupling assembly by loosening 4 bolts holding fan to water pump. 12mm spanner.

 

Remove drive belt by placing a spanner on the bolt head on the drive belt tensioner pulley and turning the drive belt tensioner clockwise

 

Remove No. 3 Timing belt cover (top). 5mm hexagon wrench, 10 bolts.

 

Remove No. 2 Timing belt cover (front). 5mm hex wrench, 3 bolts.

 

Remove drive belt tensioner. 12mm socket, 3 bolts.

 

 

Set No.1 cylinder to TDC. Turn crank pulley and align groove on pulley with timing mark “0” on No. 1 Timing belt cover.

Check timing marks on camshaft timing pulleys are aligned with marks on No. 4 timing cover, if not turn crank one revolution (360°)

 

Remove Alternator for access to Timing belt tensioner. You should be able to disconnect only the multi-way connector leaving the larger cable connected and rest alternator on a cloth on the inner wing by the strut turret.

 

Alternately loosen the two bolts a bit at a time to remove the tensioner and the dust boot.

 

Disconnect Timing belt from camshaft timing pulleys.

 

To remove the crankshaft pulley, you will need to use a special tool to lock crank pulley.

 

Use a penetrating fluid like WD40 on the crankshaft pulley bolt 24 hours before attempting to loosen bolt. This may help to loosen bolt.

 

Place a 22mm socket on crank pulley bolt and turn anti-clockwise to loosen bolt.

 

Important: Do not apply any heat to the bolt or pulley as this will damage the rubber inside the crankshaft pulley and can also damage the front crankshaft oil seal.

 

Re-align crank pulley timing marks if it has moved slightly from loosening bolt.

 

Use special tool to remove crank pulley from crankshaft, crank pulley is an interference fit on crankshaft so it will not just pull off.

 

Remove No.1 Timing belt cover and cambelt guide now crank pulley has been removed.

 

Remove cambelt tensioner idler pulley using a 10mm Hex Allen wrench.

Check for play and turning smoothness. If necessary replace the idler pulley.

 

Inspect timing belt tensioner.

(a) Visually check tensioner for oil leakage. If only a feint trace of oil on the seal on the push rod side, the tensioner is ok.

If leakage is found, replace tensioner.

 

(b) Hold the tensioner with both hands and push the rod strongly against the floor or wall to check that it doesn’t move.

If push rod moves, replace tensioner.

 

© Measure the protrusion of the push rod from the housing end.

Protrusion 8.0 – 8.8mm

If not as specified, replace tensioner.

Crankshaft front oil seal.

To check front crankshaft oil seal for leaks, the crankshaft timing pulley will need to be removed. To remove timing pulley the timing belt plate will also need to be removed.

 

Replacing Cambelt.

 

Replace crankshaft timing pulley if it has been removed. Align the key with the key groove on the pulley and slide the pulley on to the crankshaft with the flange side facing inward.

 

Install the timing belt plate with the bolt and torque to 7.8N-m (80 kgf-cm, 69 in-lbf)

 

Replace the cambelt tensioner idler pulley. Apply Loctite 242 thread adhesive to 2 or 3 threads on the pivot bolt.

Using a 10mm Hex wrench install plate washer and pulley with the pivot bolt.

Torque to 34 N-m (350 kgf-cm, 25 ft-lbf)

Check that the pulley bracket moves smoothly.

 

Temporarily install timing belt.

Engine should be cold.

Use the crankshaft pulley bolt to turn the crankshaft and align the timing marks on the crankshaft timing pulley and on the oil pump body. Make sure the crankshaft timing pulley and idler pulley are free from oil or water.

Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing pulley and idler pulley.

 

At this stage I installed the timing belt on to the camshaft timing pulleys, make sure they are free of oil or water.

Align the camshaft timing pulleys with the timing marks on No. 4 timing belt cover. (They shouldn’t have moved after removing timing belt, but its better to check.)

Install the timing belt, checking the tension between the crankshaft timing pulley and the exhaust camshaft timing pulley.

 

Set timing belt tensioner.

If you have a press or large 4 inch bench vice available, slowly press the pushrod in until the holes in the pushrod and housing are aligned, then pass a 1.5mm hex wrench through the holes to keep pushrod retracted.

 

Install the dust boot onto the tensioner.

 

Install timing belt tensioner.

(a) Temporarily install the tensioner with the 2 bolts.

(b) Alternately tighten the 2 bolts.

Torque: 26 Nm (270 kgf-cm, 20 ft-lbf)

© Remove 1.5mm hex wrench from the tensioner with pliers hand grenade style.

 

Check the valve timing.

Slowly turn the crankshaft with the crankshaft pulley bolt 2 revolutions from TDC to TDC. Always turn crankshaft clockwise.

Check that each pulley aligns with the timing marks on the crankshaft timing pulley and oil pump housing and the timing marks on the camshaft timing pulleys with the timing marks on No. 4 timing belt belt cover.

 

If marks do not align remove timing belt and reinstall it.

 

Remove crankshaft pulley bolt before continuing.

 

Install timing belt guide.

Install the guide with the cup side facing outwards.

 

Install No. 1 timing belt cover.

Install the timing belt cover with the5 bolts.

 

Install crankshaft pulley.

(a) Align the pulley key groove with the crankshaft key and slide on the pulley.

(b) Use special tool to lock the crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolt.

Torque: 324 Nm (3,300 kgf-cm, 239 ft-lbf)

 

Install drive belt tensioner.

Install the drive belt tensioner with the 3 bolts

Torque: 21 Nm (210 kgf-cm, 15 ft-lbf)

Be careful not to drop bolts inside the timing belt cover!

 

 

Install No. 2 timing belt cover.

Use a 5mm hex wrench and install cover with the 3 bolts.

 

Install No.3 timing belt cover.

Use a 5mm hex wrench and install the belt cover with the 10 bolts.

 

Install water pump pulley, fan and fluid coupling assembly and drive belt.

(a) Align the matchmarks, (blue dot on end of bolt and yellow line on fluid coupling assembly). Install the water pump pulley and fan and fluid coupling onto the 4 bolts.

(b) Install drive belt by turning drive belt tensioner clockwise.

© Stretch belt tight and tighten the 4 nuts.

Torque: 16 Nm (165 kgf-cm, 12 ft-lbf)

 

Install radiator assembly.

(a) Place radiator on to the body brackets at bottom of engine bay.

(b) Install the 2 upper radiator support clamps and 2 bolts.

Torque: 15 Nm (155 kgf-cm, 11 ft-lbf)

 

Check rubber cushion on the support is not depressed. (between clamp and top of radiator)

© Connect the reservoir tank inlet hose to rad

(d) Connect upper radiator hose to top outlet

(e) Lower radiator hose to water outlet.

(f) On Auto trans, connect the 2 oil cooler hoses to radiator.

(g) Connect the electric cooling fan assembly and connector and wire harness

(h) Connect water temperature switch connector and wire harness.

 

Install No.2 fan shroud.

(a) Connect the claw of the No.2 fan shroud with the hook on the No.1 fan shroud. Install with the 2 clips

 

Install No. 5 air hose.

Install air hose with 2 clamps

 

Install air cleaner duct.

Connect air cleaner duct to air box and install bolt.

 

Install No.2 air tube.

This is the pipe that runs underneath radiator from the intercooler to No. 5 air hose.

Install with 2 clamps and 2 bolts.

 

Fill engine with coolant.

Check auto transmission fluid level.

Install battery tray and battery

Start engine and check for leaks

 

Install engine under cover

 

Perform road test

Check for abnormal noise, shock, slippage, correct shift points and smooth operation.

 

After engine has cooled, recheck coolant level.

 

 

Hope this info can help someone else. Any probs PM me and i'll try and help.

 

Mark

OW8XL

No5 air hose.gif

Auto fluid cooler pipes.gif

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Cambelt change 019.gif

Crank pulley bolt.gif

Drive belt tensioner.gif

Fan assy.gif

No.gif

no2 timing cover.gif

Edited by markssupra (see edit history)
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Very good work Mark :thumbs:

 

Some numbers in the text to match up with the attached pics would make it easier to follow.

 

Could you elaborate on this bit for me please? :

Set timing belt tensioner.

If you don’t have a press available like me, then very slowly tighten the 2 bolts a small amount each at a time and this will compress the pushrod.

Which bolts do you mean? How does this compress the pushrod? I usually do it in a large vice but your way might be easier.

 

 

 

 

One other thing, I don't usually take the altenator off to get at the tensioner. Do you think it's worth the extra time? I might try that next time.

 

Anyway, thanks for the write up.

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One other thing, I don't usually take the altenator off to get at the tensioner. Do you think it's worth the extra time? I might try that next time.

 

On mine, there was absolutely no way of getting a socket to one of the tensioner bolts without loosening off the alternator and swinging it away first. Maybe it's just a difference between some models? :shrug:

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That's superb.

Any close up photos of the crank pulley locking tool?

any and all pics of the special tools you used would be good. i need to do my cam belt on fri or saturday. i could make these tools up 1st if you dont mind sharing some pics?

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Very good work Mark :thumbs:

 

Some numbers in the text to match up with the attached pics would make it easier to follow.

 

Could you elaborate on this bit for me please? : Which bolts do you mean? How does this compress the pushrod? I usually do it in a large vice but your way might be easier.

 

 

 

 

One other thing, I don't usually take the altenator off to get at the tensioner. Do you think it's worth the extra time? I might try that next time.

 

Anyway, thanks for the write up.

 

Cheers Dave.:thumbs:

 

Good point Jake. I did write it up in Word first with all the pics attached in the right places, but it was too large to upload.

Anyway I've edited the post now and I found it just as easy to re install the tensioner back on to the engine and just tighten the 2 bolts a small amount at a time on each until the tensioner is all the way on and the idler pulley has tensioned the cambelt.

 

Definately easier to take the alternator off, only 1 bolt at the top mount and a nut on the bottom, theres also a small clamp holding the Auto trans fluid cooler pipes that needs to come off with alternator. Remove the smaller connecter from the alternator, the large one ( thick cables ) can be left on and the alternator can then rest on the drivers side inner wing. It really is so easy to take off.

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OK guys.

 

If anyone wants to BORROW these tools for just the postage cost to send them to you, I am more than happy to do so, as long as I get them back eventually. :D

 

If you want the tools for yourself, I will make more. PM me for a price.

 

If anyone would prefer the WORD version of this "How to", I will email it to you. The pictures are in order along with the text, which may make it a bit easier to understand.

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I will be able to knock a few of these tools together at work no probs if any1 is interested.

 

I'm presuming that the bottom drawing in the picture is the extractor used to get the cambelt pulley off.

 

PM me if u want a set of "Marks Pulley Extractors" copywrite

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  • 6 months later...
I found it just as easy to re install the tensioner back on to the engine and just tighten the 2 bolts a small amount at a time on each until the tensioner is all the way on and the idler pulley has tensioned the cambelt.

I believe that doing it that way will result in the cambelt being over-tightened. The 'hand grenade pin' style method is the recommeded way to install the tensioner.

CambeltTensioner.JPG

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  • 1 year later...
Is there any more pics of the special tools made please.

 

Also what did you use to stop the cam pullys from turning ?

 

many thanks

 

Dann

 

to hold the cam pulleys you need to take the cam covers off and from memory something like a 30mm or 32mm spanner on the hex section of the cam

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to hold the cam pulleys you need to take the cam covers off and from memory something like a 30mm or 32mm spanner on the hex section of the cam

 

i made a tool, with tow "pegs" that sits in the cam gear spokes to lock them, saves on taking the covers off

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Is there any more pics of the special tools made please.

 

Also what did you use to stop the cam pullys from turning ?

 

many thanks

 

Dann

 

The special tools are for for locking and removing the crank pulley as the bolt is so *?%$ tight. Once the cam belt tensioner is off the cam belt should be loose to pull off without moving the cam pulleys. There are timing marks on each cam pulley and the cover.

 

Oh! Good luck BTW

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