Nathanj1142 Posted June 29, 2020 Author Share Posted June 29, 2020 GTE pistons? Yes mate... thinking i want to go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 youll lower compression. Unless you maintain an NA headgasket. If you run a GTE HG and piston combo you'll be sub 8.5:1 compression ratio. With no small turbo. That car will bog down. Just be careful on this combo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted June 29, 2020 Author Share Posted June 29, 2020 I was aware of this yea, planning to run NA HG. I'll just see what comes up, prices etc. Cheers Noz! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted August 13, 2020 Author Share Posted August 13, 2020 Nice work, well done. Cheers bud! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted August 13, 2020 Author Share Posted August 13, 2020 I decided to buy a new engine from a GS300 to go NA-T. This cost me £750 delivered and came with all ancillaries and the loom/ecu for spares, including the auto bell housing which may come in handy if i decide to go for a CD009 transmission. There are a few reasons as to why; I want something to do over summer, especially since Covid restricts you doing everything. I want to drive and enjoy my car over summer and this would require me pulling my engine out and the car off the road and finally, I want to take my time and not have to rush to get my car/engine ready over winter for next summer. So, with that out of the way. Here she is! I've pulled it apart, to fully rebuild it myself. I know this may be the wrong idea but I've decided i want to take this opportunity as a learning experience with a rewarding (maybe stressful) result. valves removed and organised in a tub I've taken 2 pistons, crank, all my valves, head and block to a local machine shop to be inspected and machined accordingly as I don't have the instruments to accurately measure. So far, they have measured my valve guide clearances and measured the crank journals to see if they comply with the TSRM tolerances and confirmed all is ok. The head and block are having a light skim following their recommendations, and i have stressed i want the amount of material they're taking off written down so that i can calculate the compression ratio when i decide what HG to go for. They are honing the bores, after confirming they do not need to be machined, lapping the valves and polishing the crank journals. My first package from TCB has arrived. I've got kingracing bottom end bearings (have yet to find some thrust washers as they didnt have any in), TT oil pump so that i can use a OE Crank Position Sensor, full GE gasket kit (including stem seals etc)(not sure if im going TT pistons yet but couldn't get the gasket kit with a TT HG) and new OE rod and main cap bolts. I decided to not upgrade the bottom end bolts to ARP as i would need line honing done, and i thought for my power goals it would be unnecessary. I have yet to order ARP head studs, piston rings, crank pos sensor, crank timing gear, and headgasket following my comment regarding material removal on head and block. Heres a photo from a Doncaster meet few weeks back, just to keep the thread interesting lol. And i also did my first post-lockdown track day at Blyton in my EP3 with my mate in his 380hp fiesta. Almost finished the boot build too, just need to find an amp that works lol but all wiring is in place. Stay tuned! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Good work Nathan:thumbs: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted September 7, 2020 Author Share Posted September 7, 2020 Good work Nathan:thumbs: cheers mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted January 4, 2021 Author Share Posted January 4, 2021 (edited) Another prolonged update... I'll try to capture everything I've done since the last post. Had a quick wash under the car at some point after a few 1000 miles, paints holding up well! Engine Build Picked up the engine bits from the machine shop, took nearly a month to get it back thanks to covid! Cost: £120 - bores honed, main bearing (line hone), decked. £30 - crank measure and polish £120 - valves and seats ground, head skimmed. masked off the block and painted with hammerite (friends have used this and said its held up fine with heat) Don't have a photo of after. I seem to have lost a load of images. I fully built the bottom end myself, had some issues using plasti-gauge (I measured with assembly lube, not dry do'h) but other than that everything went fine. Was a very rewarding experience. Ouch! another thing wrong. A small crack in the block between the dowel pin and water jacket at the front of the engine. I spoke to a few guys (including SRD) and all of them said it will be fine to run for my desired power output (~600hp in future) Head on using ARP head studs and GTE headgasket. Cam covers powdercoated black. Apparently were very corroded so went with black as hides most of the imperfections. New OE water pump with powercoated pulley, and GTE oil pump fitted. new seal. Cant remember what gasket maker I used, I'll post a pic in the next post. Valves and cams back in with new stem seals, tolerances were checked by machine shop. My engine, for some reason, didn't come with any valve spring seats or were lost by machine shop, so i had to order some of them from TCB. NOTE: I HAVE THE FRONT SUMP LOOSELY BOLTED IN AS WAS WAITING TO PULL MY OTHER ENGINE FOR REAR SUMP. Pulling the engine So, here she is, a grimy, wirey mess. I hope you're ready for the next part! A grimey mess was left in the engine bay... Pulled it outside and gave it a blast down with the pressure washer to remove some of the old dirt and oil. Decided to change the colour in the engine bay... this is what I went with. BMW Mineral Grey. Not bothering with going OTT and smoothing everything. Finished the engine... to a point... and the Whifbitz NA-T kit has been ordered (8 week wait is killing me!) Started to tackle the wires under the steering column while the dash is out... an old alarm system and all sorts is butchered into this. What a mess. filtered-335FF242-B980-4921-A44C-3D6D3A3695EB.mp4 Shall update the thread more tomorrow! Im still trying to get used to this new website layout lol but i think it works great! Edited January 4, 2021 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_supra Posted January 4, 2021 Share Posted January 4, 2021 Great update, coming along nicely! Are you planning on replacing the core plugs while the engine is out? I'd recommend it as the core plugs themselves aren't expensive and the job is a hundred times easier to do with the engine out. Sort of future proofs the engine a bit more, and have seen a couple issues on here over the years where core plugs have gone due to age/ corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 5 hours ago, jim_supra said: Great update, coming along nicely! Are you planning on replacing the core plugs while the engine is out? I'd recommend it as the core plugs themselves aren't expensive and the job is a hundred times easier to do with the engine out. Sort of future proofs the engine a bit more, and have seen a couple issues on here over the years where core plugs have gone due to age/ corrosion. Hey mate. are they the freeze plug things on the side of the block? I have some new ones with my gasket kit. Can I get them out without taking pistons out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_supra Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 (edited) 49 minutes ago, Nathanj1142 said: Hey mate. are they the freeze plug things on the side of the block? I have some new ones with my gasket kit. Can I get them out without taking pistons out? Yes they are the ones, there should be 11 larger ones in the kit and 2 smaller ones. Almost all can be swapped out without taking anything else apart on your engine with the exception of your water pump, there's one that can't be accessed with the water pump in place (behind the thermostat housing on the side of the block) The way I did it was to use a punch and tap them at the bottom of the core plug, inside the recess of the plug and not the outer edge (to avoid damaging the sealing faces) the idea is to get them to swivel in situ so that you can get a pair of grips on them to pull them out of the block. You may get a couple that end up pushing through into the block which isn't the end of the world as they won't go far (happened on a few of mine), you'll still be able to get at them with pliers and pull them back through. New ones will knock back in place with a hammer and suitably sized socket. Make sure it's big enough so that it sits on the outer edge of the core plug, and not inside it. Some, including me, use a thin smear of sealant before knocking them back in, others don't. The sealant I used was Hylomar blue. Edited January 5, 2021 by jim_supra (see edit history) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 (edited) 12 hours ago, jim_supra said: Yes they are the ones, there should be 11 larger ones in the kit and 2 smaller ones. Almost all can be swapped out without taking anything else apart on your engine with the exception of your water pump, there's one that can't be accessed with the water pump in place (behind the thermostat housing on the side of the block) The way I did it was to use a punch and tap them at the bottom of the core plug, inside the recess of the plug and not the outer edge (to avoid damaging the sealing faces) the idea is to get them to swivel in situ so that you can get a pair of grips on them to pull them out of the block. You may get a couple that end up pushing through into the block which isn't the end of the world as they won't go far (happened on a few of mine), you'll still be able to get at them with pliers and pull them back through. New ones will knock back in place with a hammer and suitably sized socket. Make sure it's big enough so that it sits on the outer edge of the core plug, and not inside it. Some, including me, use a thin smear of sealant before knocking them back in, others don't. The sealant I used was Hylomar blue. I'll give it a look over tonight. engine is all timed up now so the water pump one might be a ball ache I appreciate the info tho Jim! Edited January 5, 2021 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 (edited) Here is a pic of the engine bay painted: absolutely in love with the colour, I think the whole car will have to go this colour at some point in the future when funds permit! As you can see it wasn't the best place to do it... no ventilation, no heaters, just a gazebo in the unit lol which my friend painted! subframe back in and some bits and bobs. Decided to keep ABS as I don't trust the UK roads or anyone's driving. Deleting Aircon though so need to make a bracket to support the PS pump on the engine. This is a mockup of a spooly on the engine, not my turbo just one we had lying around in the unit. Everything timed up, PS reservoir powdercoated and some other bits and bobs. Rear sump fitted, but waiting for the turbo kit to come before drilling the return. Still yet to fit a new thermostat and the core plugs! Thanks to Jim for mentioning it! I also need a new O ring for the oil cooler to block as that was leaking before. The only other thing I can think of is the coolant drain plug (8mm hex) on the block which I cant get out of my old engine. I've essentially pulled everything from the Supra engine and placed on this new block/head to prevent anything not working on the loom and all the extra coolant passages the gs300 engine had. Plenty more has been done since these photos, so I need to get some more pics to post. Edited January 5, 2021 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AC93 Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 Looking good! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Just a quick update. Still waiting for the whifbitz kit, understandably taking a while with Covid and what not. Added onto my order and got the R35 COP conversion kit, a Haltech Boost Solenoid, Oil filter sandwich plate, and new pigtails for some 650cc FIC injectors I got off facebook. Also ordered a John Hodgson braided fuel line kit that somebody was selling on facebook, and bought a 7m-gte CPS off someone on the forums. TCB has a new cap very cheap for the CPS as this one was broken. Also received my 3 AEM gauges, I went for all x series. Boost, Oil Pressure, and AFR. I know individual gauges are a bit old school but I love the look of them lol. Was swaying towards ECUmaster black for management, but again im leaning more towards Link's new G4X. Still unsure where to go for mapping. Had a couple quotes but both Whifbitz and SRD are very far from where I am (e.yorks). Yet to speak to JM in Newcastle. Managed to get a hold of a E46 M3 420g box. Unfortunately one of the mounting points was snapped, so contacted the seller and he was happy to exchange for another one he had. Also gave me a custom shifter and clutch slave for free as he was running a bmw box in his supra. (dont think hes on the forums). He also has the PMC adaptor and a twin plate clutch kit for sale, as well as the custom prop I need. Fingers crossed he hasn't sold so I can get it when I get some more cash! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AC93 Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Buy my ECU Master Black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaysdan Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 1 hour ago, AC93 said: Buy my ECU Master Black What you after for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AC93 Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 27 minutes ago, sidewaysdan said: What you after for it PM sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 Surprised you bought a 7mgte cps. I didnt need it for my cop setup. Just installed a dizzy cap and job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted January 21, 2021 Author Share Posted January 21, 2021 3 hours ago, Noz said: Surprised you bought a 7mgte cps. I didnt need it for my cop setup. Just installed a dizzy cap and job done. I got an alright deal on it, plus its a bit smaller. Will also be getting a crank pulley w/ trigger wheel and crank pos sensor. already timed up my car tho cause i forgot about it are you running a crank signal at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 No crank signals pal. Just cam signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Bazz Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 The CPS sensor sends out all necessary signals, you can even run a GTE ECU with the GE/7MGTE CPS as it sends out the same G1, G2, G- and NE signals as the GTE receives from the separate sensors. Only downside is that the 7M CPS is locked in place once you drill it for mounting, but that's not really a problem with a aftermarket ECU as it's capable of changing the timing anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kendo11 Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 Loving the updates Nathan, incredible how much you've done underneath! Having fun with that famous Japanese wiring too Awesome work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 5 hours ago, P_Bazz said: The CPS sensor sends out all necessary signals, you can even run a GTE ECU with the GE/7MGTE CPS as it sends out the same G1, G2, G- and NE signals as the GTE receives from the separate sensors. Only downside is that the 7M CPS is locked in place once you drill it for mounting, but that's not really a problem with a aftermarket ECU as it's capable of changing the timing anyway. Makes sense, I’m going stand-alone anyways so no issue there! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 3 hours ago, Kendo11 said: Loving the updates Nathan, incredible how much you've done underneath! Having fun with that famous Japanese wiring too Awesome work. Fancy seeing you on here! Glad you like it! The wiring is almost done now need to post an update. Cheers bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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