Iky Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Looks like a nice job that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Going to probably have to remove the zinc from the diff mount bushes cylinders as they are very tight to press in in my experience, just wondering how thick roughly the coating has come out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 Going to probably have to remove the zinc from the diff mount bushes cylinders as they are very tight to press in in my experience, just wondering how thick roughly the coating has come out? Typically, the coating will be 0.04mm so it'll reduce the diameter by under 0.1mm which hopefully won't make tight too tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Ah surprisingly thin! but that's one corrosion proofed subframe now that's for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Nice job. Are those solid bushes? Are you going to retain them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Massey Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Nice job. Are those solid bushes? Are you going to retain them? Where have you seen solid bushes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Nice work, sure ill be doing this one day in my ownership. Subscribed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Where have you seen solid bushes? Front big round bushes (sorry for terrible description). I don't imagine they are genuine given they have been dipped in numerous acids and then galvanized. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 (edited) Front big round bushes (sorry for terrible description). I don't imagine they are genuine given they have been dipped in numerous acids and then galvanized. They are solid which to be honest I'm a bit miffed about as I wasn't made aware it was a modified frame when I purchased it and never having seen one before except the one fitted to my car I never clocked the solid front mounts. I have wondered what to do with those front mounts as all the other bushes are going to be the rubber OE variety. The thought of transmission noise makes me want to tackle the welds holding these solid bushes onto the frame with a thin cutting disc but then there is the concern I could end up with a very uneven surface for the new bush. Any thought on leave alone or go for it because the noise will be unbearable (sods law, one 1cm weld is inaccessible to a cutting disc)? Edited July 3, 2017 by rider (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 My gut feeling is that they will transmit a terrible amount of noise and vibration. OK for a track car, but terrible for a road car. I'd personally get them out. I doubt any damage done in removing them would render it impossible to reinstall stock bushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Massey Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Ah, I was looking at the back and couldn't see them. Didn't think to look at the front position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 My gut feeling is that they will transmit a terrible amount of noise and vibration. OK for a track car, but terrible for a road car. I'd personally get them out. I doubt any damage done in removing them would render it impossible to reinstall stock bushes. Agreed. Solid welded mounts will be horrendous for road daily use. Should of cut them out before dipping really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 All I've read on this thread is poor quality this, miffed about that etc etc. If you had an issue with the Subframe you should have informed me before stripping it to bits (Same goes for Mark with the tank cover). Agree on yours and Marks comments the quality of the work on the shell these were from was shockingly bad and I think few people have learned lessons from it. Ive run solid front bushes on my track car with the Strongflex rear bushes and I can't say I noticed much difference over stock. I think all 4 bushes being the solid variety would be horrific but as long as there is some flex it should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Running solid bushes *AND* flexible bushes will put HUGE loads into the solid bush mounting area as they are effectively doing all the work. Same with solid engine mounts and flexible gearbox mounts. all solid or all flexible. Post a decent photo of how the solid bushes are welded in. If you can't get `em out easily I would run solid ones on the other two pick up points and leave flexible diff bushes in. It shouldn't be much harsher and noisier like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 I ran my track car with that setup for 2 years and never had 1 issue. Only speaking from personal experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 Links to a couple of pictures of the solid bushing. One thing I'm a little concerned about trying to cut the mounts out of the frame is that it appears as though it has a spacer ring as well as the solid mount welded to the frame. Maybe it needs a professional metal shop to tackle this job? https://www.dropbox.com/s/leulzynagipcdxc/20170704_132322.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/0bezuso9yxad600/20170704_132225.jpg?dl=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 (edited) You'd probably get `em out with a small angle grinder, a thin(ish) disc and a lot of patience. The steel outer sleeves of the OE rubber bushes are a VERY tight press fit, it the top of the seating area is left a bit ropey it won't really matter other than aesthetically. Make sure you can still get the OE ones first though.... Why whoever did them didn't make them in alloy and a press fit I don't know, would have been lighter, and much easier to revert back. Have fun, I can feel the numb fingers and the back ache already Good safety goggles a shattering grinder disc has a lot of inertia, but I am sure I am "teaching granny to suck an egg" there, no offence meant. Edited July 4, 2017 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 Make sure you can still get the OE ones first though.... New ones are still available and ordered today. This frame will be a £1,500 piece of kit by the time new OE bushes included. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 What is the mark to the left hand side of the second photo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 New ones are still available and ordered today. This frame will be a £1,500 piece of kit by the time new OE bushes included. It will be worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 (edited) Solid bushes out and sleeve cleaned up. They came out a lot easier than expected. Did a 1K etch prime coat followed by two coats of Simoniz Underguard. That's strange paint as it froths up when applied. Presumably to give it a deliberately crinkly type of finish. Supposed to be impact resistant paint so every crinkle counts. Next update will be beginning of September when I will try manfully to get all the new bushes (some just ordered) mated with the frame. Edited July 6, 2017 by rider (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Massey Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 This frame will be a £1,500 piece of kit by the time new OE bushes included. That's ok, mines at about £2.5K without the diff lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 People spending serious dosh on subframe recons might consider putting an active R33 GTR V Spec diff in under ECU control, has anyone done this yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 That's ok, mines at about £2.5K without the diff lol https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170706/d5f4ffa906e805c7f85b363f71c31437.jpg [ATTACH]220185[/ATTACH] Spot the 2K paint job, that's an unfair comparison to frothy impact resistant Underguard. I have thought about getting new arms but I'm going bide my time on that and look over the ones on the car first when they are off before going down that expensive path. I have options there as the replacement frame came with all the arms and hubs but the bushes, ball joints and dust covers on those aren't fantastic. It was all supposed to be off a low mileage import car but they must have been hard miles. But I'll have two sets to look at with the option of picking the best from two used or going for new. Decisions don't come easy or cheap. I just know if I elect to go new I'd just have to buy all new for the front end at the same time ready for when that is done. That'd get to be lots of money with new rods, arms and bushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Massey Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 Spot the 2K paint job, that's an unfair comparison to frothy impact resistant Underguard. I have thought about getting new arms but I'm going bide my time on that and look over the ones on the car first when they are off before going down that expensive path. I have options there as the replacement frame came with all the arms and hubs but the bushes, ball joints and dust covers on those aren't fantastic. It was all supposed to be off a low mileage import car but they must have been hard miles. But I'll have two sets to look at with the option of picking the best from two used or going for new. Decisions don't come easy or cheap. I just know if I elect to go new I'd just have to buy all new for the front end at the same time ready for when that is done. That'd get to be lots of money with new rods, arms and bushes. I wasn't on about the paint I decided on full new arms and bushes because the ones on my car were getting bad and couldn't adjust them all anymore so was making it a very harsh ride. Plus I knew that the arms are good for 20 odd years so thought why not while I had the cash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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