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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

My BPU TT6 Dyno run - Round 4 on Page 4


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You've went from under reading to over reading. 350atw is a brilliant figure.

 

I'm very happy with the car Scott, the Mines ECU has added that little extra as you have always said previously.. I don't regret having bought it.. Thanks for all your help.

There was alot of work involved in getting up to this power, I even had to take the gearbox out to reach all the vac pipes and replace with new ones, found so many with pinholes in them..

 

350 rwhp is approx 410 bhp. That's a great result.

 

605 nm (445 ftlbs) is great too. Well done :thumbs:

 

Thanks mate.. Just to confirm, are you estimating 15% increase to get from wheel to flywheel torque? Was never sure what was the agreed estimate.

I'm not sure if the figures are 100% accurate, but the gain in power from each dyno is what I am focusing on, plus the road performance is the best its ever been.

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You have a lot of power left to gain if the AFRs really are that low. Ideally you want low-mid 11s which will give you the ideal safe power. I'm surprised it's running so rich, does it blow out a load of black smoke? How confident are you in the AFR figures?

 

You've got the right attitude with the dyno :thumbs:

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You have a lot of power left to gain if the AFRs really are that low. Ideally you want low-mid 11s which will give you the ideal safe power. I'm surprised it's running so rich, does it blow out a load of black smoke? How confident are you in the AFR figures?

 

You've got the right attitude with the dyno :thumbs:

 

The gauge I have is the HKS AFK which uses a Bosch wideband sensor, so it should be fairly accurate..

I have a spare one, will try it out and see if it changes the readings.

I haven't seen it smoke, the tuner I'm talking to also thinks it may be reading wrong..

 

Dyno figures down here are very controversial, some of them are ludicrous in the power they give.

The one I used is one of the more accurate ones..

 

Hoping to gain some more after mapping, plus with ethanol will have a permanent, cost effective solution to running high octane fuel.. (Less the initial investment of course)

Edited by Samurai 20V (see edit history)
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  • 6 months later...

Round 5...

 

Difference from previous was 103 octane fuel in the car...

Mines ECU still installed.

Boost 1.18bar

AFR 10:1

 

Graph is below, figures at the wheels..

 

Car feels way faster on the road, its a beast on the road.

The figure may be optimistic, but the gain from previous is what I am focusing on.. (This is the same dyno I used before).

 

image

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  • 1 year later...
You have a lot of power left to gain if the AFRs really are that low. Ideally you want low-mid 11s which will give you the ideal safe power. I'm surprised it's running so rich, does it blow out a load of black smoke? How confident are you in the AFR figures?

 

You've got the right attitude with the dyno :thumbs:

 

A 2 year bump on this one..

 

The AFR's on these runs where all around 9.5 with 98 octane, 10:1 with 102 octane.

With 95 octane, in the 8's.

 

I finally found the issue as to why the car was so rich, as Scott had said before.

The pipe supplying the IACV VSV was very loose, been like this from these dyno runs. I had used a pipe from a low mileage car, but still 20 years old, so compromised.

Changed it a few weeks ago, AFR's are now 9.5 with 95 octane.

 

My guess is the IACV was not opening fully, car was overfuelling due to less boost reaching the intake.

 

With the pipe replaced, car feels awesome, on low boost its pulling hard.

 

Will stick it on the dyno again to see check the figures.

Edited by Samurai 20V (see edit history)
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  • 11 months later...

Great thread and thank you for documenting your journey.

 

My car is a bit rubbish/slow and although I haven't got a wideband yet, it drinks fuel like you wouldn't believe and I don't even drive it hard. I'll be sure to get the engine smoke tested and check out for any vac lines that might be amiss.

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