Project Procrastination

[mwilkinson]

Love the work you have been carrying out.

 

Do you have any photos of your garage, as I’m very envious right now.

 

Hi Kev,

 

Thanks is for the kind words.

 

I've sent you a PM.

[The Raven]

Everything is just so........new.

 

Bravo

[Scooter]

The garage floor is cleaner than my cars carpet!

[mwilkinson]

The garage floor is cleaner than my cars carpet!

 

Gets hoovered regularly

[mwilkinson]

Some updates.

 

I managed to modify one of my eBay mandrels to allow me to fit the ABS dust shield to the rear hub.

 

Next step was to fit the new ABS sensors.

 

I've previously posted images of the refurbished subframe. I bought some caster wheels from Amazon and used an old pallet and plyboard to make a trolley. I assembled the subframe on the trolley. I wanted to be able to move the assembly around, and store it back under the car out of the way.

 

None of the suspension parts have been torqued. This will all be done once it's put back on the car.

 

I've retained the original suspension components as they were all in a good state of repair and just required cosmetic refurbishment. This was done primarily with POR15.

 

All the ancillaries are new Toyota parts. The anti-roll bars are refurbished Titan products, but with new Titan bushes and brackets.

 

Handbrake cables are new. I refurbished the end connector myself with a little home electroplating. I did buy new handbrake brackets, well three of them. One is discontinued. I therefore decided not to fit the new ones and instead electroplated the old ones. I'm not happy with them as they were quite corroded, but I like the symmetry of them more than three new and one refurbished.

 

All assembled and moved under the car.

 

I've also partially installed the new drive shafts into the hubs. You can see that on the last image.

Edited April 7, 2020 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[evinX]

Great work mate

[Mo Reviews]

Do you want to move on to mine next?

[mwilkinson]

Do you want to move on to mine next?

 

I'll probably be too old to drive it by the time it's finished.

[rider]

Its all making my subframe look a bit messy by comparison. I baulked at the new knuckle and back plate costs even though Toyota Oxford offered me a restocked parts special at the time.

 

You'll probably find it a lot easier to torque all the sub frame arms while it is still off the car. All you need to do is raise the arms to the level (ride height) position on a jack or hydralic table and torque away. You'll never get as good access to all the bolts and setting the hubs at ride height than you do now. If you set the cams to what was originally position then you will be close enough to get the car safely to a proper alignment shop.

 

Only useful tip I can offer up is to use an impact drive on the ball joint bolts initially to avoid having the joints spin in their socket when you come to tighten to the final torque. I found if you just go with a socket and ratchet they just spin away where the impact snugged them down nicely.

 

You'll need to recycle a pair of front bush clamps as they were discontinued when I was looking for a pair back in 2017. Hope it all goes well for you with the refitting, my biggest fear was that I might have damaged one of the ABS sensors during the whole process but I fortunately didn't.

[Mo Reviews]

I'll probably be too old to drive it by the time it's finished.

 

You've only been at it for 6 or so years...

[mwilkinson]

Thanks for the tips Barry.

 

At the end of the day looks are relatively immaterial so long as they function properly. To your credit you got the job done and are able to enjoy your car. Mine will be an expensive pile of metal for a good few years yet.

 

I've got a blueprint impact gun that should do the trick on the ball joints. They were spinning even with the slight assembly I did.

 

When you say "front bush clamps" which part are you referring to?

[rider]

You'll see at the front of the bush in the linked picture a clamp. If you have a M10 bolt hole just in front of the front cushion then that is where the clamp bolts to. It is probably 4mm angled steel that clamps over the top of the cushion edge to secure the cushion in its socket.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20150104/742b1fa969c6ffb7028111fc2e779510.jpg

 

and on the front of my frame

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=223536&d=1510064748

Edited April 7, 2020 by rider (see edit history)

[mwilkinson]

Mine did not have these.

 

I'll check the parts catalogue for a facelift car.

[rider]

 

Do you have the tapped bolt hole? It should be easy enough to fabricate if you want to fit them. I assume they were put there for a reason.

Edited April 7, 2020 by rider (see edit history)

[mwilkinson]

Megazip only shows these parts for the years in which the pre-facelift cushions were installed.

 

Now, I ended up getting pre-facelift cushions instead of facelift ones. So, that would indicate that i either need to swap these out for the year appropriate cushions, if still available, or install these brackets.

 

There is a noticeable difference between the pre and facelift cushions, both in the rubber design and the internal metal mounting.

[mwilkinson]

I'm also now wondering if there is any difference in the physical body mount for the front cushion between pre and facelift cars?

[Suprakeith]

Amazing attention to detail

[mwilkinson]

Looks like the facelift equivalent cushion is still available. Part number is 52271-14080. It's the pre-facelift that have been discontinued.

 

Just getting some quotes from TCB.

 

Alternatively, if anyone has a pre-facelift car and has resorted to getting the facelift cushions, because the pre-facelift have been discontinued, are they interested in a swap?

[rider]

There isn't actually any physical difference in the cushions dimensions so that wouldn't make any difference to clamping or not clamping. It might be a different design cushion where facelify tended to be slightly different possibly as cost saving possibly as weight saving so there were much thinner cross member bars, some cushions had holes in facelift ones when they were solid in pre-facelift, the second cat had a cat in the prefacelift cars and was fresh air in the facelift. I think Toyota decided they over engineered a lot of the pre facelift components ready to take a much higher bhp output and then scaled things back for the facelift to cut costs. Maybe this clamp was just another few pennies and grams saved. That's my own conspiracy theory anyway.

 

 

Or it all could have been as a means to negating some of the extra weight introduced with glass over plastic headlights. Variable timing gear. Bigger brakes. Two additional dials on the dash etc. etc.

Edited April 8, 2020 by rider (see edit history)

[mwilkinson]

It's anyones guess as to why they changed things. But I don't like having the pre-facelift cushions without the clamps. I suspect finding half decent second hand ones will be difficult.

 

Here are some pictures of the differences in the cushions. Whilst the dimensions are the same the structure is different.

 

 

The new one is a pre-facelift.

52271-14070.

 

The crusty one facelift.

52271-14080.

[rider]

I expect you have the tapped bolt hole in the frame so go on, make yourself a set of clamps. All you need is a bit of cheap decent thickness box section, a vice, cutting disc, some serious heat to soften the metal and then a decent size hammer (or a 20T press) to put the angled kink in. The bolt end of the clamp is straight, the cushion end has a slight contour that follows but doesn't quite mirror the cushion curvature. Thats more into the bush cup at the clamp ends than the centre of the clamp, claw like I suppose you could say. Some people have frames sitting around so I'm sure the precise measurements can be made.

[Dave]

Not yet. I'm buying around £4K in new parts ready for a respray. Once I have all the parts and the respray is booked then I might.

 

I've done a few bits so far.

 

Repaired the collapsed Recaro bolster.

Replaced Dashboard.

Replaced dash panels.

Changed door cards and handles.

Installed GZ rear speaker pods.

Installed factory black front bumper trim

Installed factory number plate surrounds

Installed OEM metal pedal set.

Installed OEM knee pads

Cleaned and applied new oil to K&N intake.

 

 

 

The massive problem with the carbon scuttle is that it removes all the holes for the ventilation system. Or do some have holes built in?

are these from MrT?

[mwilkinson]

Nope. These were all used parts. Quite a few of them from Keron. The only new part was the recaro bolster.

 

The rest were chance buys.

 

I've not seen a set of OEM optional knee rests for sale for a considerable period of time. I believe Paul Whiffin is now selling a modern repro of the metal pedals.

[mwilkinson]

I expect you have the tapped bolt hole in the frame so go on, make yourself a set of clamps. All you need is a bit of cheap decent thickness box section, a vice, cutting disc, some serious heat to soften the metal and then a decent size hammer (or a 20T press) to put the angled kink in. The bolt end of the clamp is straight, the cushion end has a slight contour that follows but doesn't quite mirror the cushion curvature. Thats more into the bush cup at the clamp ends than the centre of the clamp, claw like I suppose you could say. Some people have frames sitting around so I'm sure the precise measurements can be made.

 

Lol. I just couldn't bring myself to use a home made part on these (I know I made my own fuel tank breather pipe). TCB have come to the rescue with facelift cushions which I will now swap out.

[mwilkinson]

I've been doing a bit more this bank holiday weekend.

 

Firstly, I've been doing more home electroplating.

 

I needed to do the handbrake levers that attach to the rear shoes. I forgot to do these with the other items I did last year. This was zinc plated and then finished in a yellow passivate.

 

 

I also had a load of interior brackets that were looking a little worse for wear.

 

 

 

 

Finally I also did the diff breather as mine was looking decidedly unhealthy before.