Chris Wilson Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Classic head gasket failure signs, as I said above. Probably number 6 cylinder. The head needs checking for flatness, it will almost certainly be warped, and needs checking for hardness. If it's been mad hot due to a previous gasket failure they go soft, the head gasket lands then just bite into the soft alloy, and they just fail again. A soft head is a scrap head. I always test *ALL* alloy heads for hardness before doing work on them these days. MKIV ones go soft, Cosworth Sierra ones are VERY often soft after an overheat, blah blah. Also the block needs checking for straightness at the head face, as these warp too, and if it IS warped the engine needs to be pulled and fully stripped to get it surface ground. If it's warped and you just skim the head the gasket WILL GO AGAIN. You MUST use new head bolts. You MUST fit a new radiator. Bak when I did these the only rad that did the job was the very expensive genuine one. Aftermarket ones never worked for long. It really is a total lemon of an engine, and the turbo version was on the edge of gasket failure at the best of times, even when the things were just out of warranty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 Thanks Chris, a mate of mine is gunno check the engine over on Saturday at his garage and check for compression loss etc etc, when I read that the head gaskets fail all the time on these engines I was assuming every 10k miles at least not every time it hits the rev limiter. I'm really tempted to just cancel the insurance whilst I still can as that works out 1200 a year. If it turns out the head gasket has gone I'll be asking for my money back on the car as he said the engine is a solid lump now everythings been done correctly and should last a long time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 A five minute sniff test for combustion gasses in the coolant will reveal all. Either using a coloured fluid you draw gas above the coolant in the rad top tank through, with a squeezy bulb, or using an MOT gas analyser to look at the HC level in the gas above the coolant. There should be NONE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 The coolant seems to be a bright red colour, so if it smells of petrol then the heads gone? Another thing, when I filled with petrol I took the cap off and a rather substantial amount of air hissed out/in. Alot more than any other car I've had there was some serious pressure or vacuum going on I generally thought it was gunno blow up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 The only viable test is a sniffer test, and it will give a 100% answer. Most garages will be able to do it, or any MOT station willing to be a tiny bit creative with the gas analyser. I can do both tests, but it will have melted by the time you get it up here The petrol cap thing is probably normal, and will not be related to head gasket issues. If you see a MKIII turbo, *ANY* MKIII turbo, it's a much safer bet than playing a fruit machine to say it's got head gasket issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philly_1 Lex Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Damn this sucks. They called it though. MKIV for the win. Get your money back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 The only viable test is a sniffer test, and it will give a 100% answer. Most garages will be able to do it, or any MOT station willing to be a tiny bit creative with the gas analyser. I can do both tests, but it will have melted by the time you get it up here The petrol cap thing is probably normal, and will not be related to head gasket issues. If you see a MKIII turbo, *ANY* MKIII turbo, it's a much safer bet than playing a fruit machine to say it's got head gasket issues. Thanks Chris, I wish I had just listened in the first place but in all honesty I didn't think they were THAT bad. I'll take it round the corner in the minute there's another mot garage I'm sure they'll be kind enough to have a look, I can't risk driving much until I know for sure. Damn this sucks. They called it though. MKIV for the win. Get your money back! Yeah I think I will, that's 2.5k including insurance I could have put towards the Mkiv project. I was just being impatient and wanted to drive. I still need a car though, maybe just a ford Ka or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jason1 Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 If it is the headgasket Cant you do yourself? They aren't to bad to work on and all the bits to fix on Ebay Head skim and pressure test would be under a ton. Oh and both mu Autos had problems once I started upping the power. Just due to old oil and never being serviced. Clutch band faults on both of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 Didn't you read what Mr Wilson said? Its ALOT more involved than that. Bad luck Kaan, but they have a bad rep for a reason. Just get a Soarer and be happy lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 If its a wreaker then for sure take it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 Didn't you read what Mr Wilson said? Its ALOT more involved than that. Bad luck Kaan, but they have a bad rep for a reason. Just get a Soarer and be happy lol. It's ok I'm over it I don't know if the head gasket has gone cause I don't seem to have any other symptoms except for a bit of smoke on deceleration after booting it, could be the turbo seals. I'm starting to like the way this car drives though, when the Mkiv is finished I would like to rebuild the engine PROPERLY and convert to a r154 with a bigger turbo for about 350hp for something to enjoy in the winter. If its a wreaker then for sure take it back. It still is a shed but I can't be bothered with all the hassle for a £1400 car. I should have been more careful before I bought it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted July 1, 2014 Author Share Posted July 1, 2014 Good news and bad news, bad news is the engine sounds like all the bottom ends have gone or a valve bouncing around inside the cylinder. Good news is I canceled the insurance still within the 14 day's and got a £86 refund Will be putting this on eBay later starting at 99p I suppose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted July 5, 2014 Author Share Posted July 5, 2014 Yep had it looked at, seems the noise is the big end banging around on the crank journal. A huge waste of £1400, I'll have to see what I can get on eBay I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Raven Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 awwwww dude why didnt i see this before.... Gutted, i can still find an mr2 if you want one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 awwwww dude why didnt i see this before.... Gutted, i can still find an mr2 if you want one? Pretty gutted, I think I'm just gunno wait until the Mkiv is finished I can't be bothered with anymore cars at the moment. Thanks anyway bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Could you not just get a 2jz-ge engine dropped in it? Those cost pennies and have about the same power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 Could you not just get a 2jz-ge engine dropped in it? Those cost pennies and have about the same power. I could but with the other project on the go I haven't got the time or extra cash. Just want this gone now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 (edited) Only just seen this thread or I would have posted earlier to advise you. I've owned my Mk3 Supra for 15 years, and LOVE it ! Mainly because of how it looks . . . when I'm in town I get far more comments from people of all ages about how they love it . . . far more than Porches, Audis, BMWs etc parked nearby. (I'm afraid Mk4 Supras do nothing for me). I love how it drives too . . . and it's also been the most reliable car I have ever owned . . . it was really over-engineered (very expensive in its day), and most mechanical parts go on and on - mine still has original wheel bearings, track rod ends, suspension bushes, etc etc (well in excess of 200,000 miles) BUT . . . the exception is the engine. The 7M engines have always had a couple of design flaws, the main one being the head gasket - even the SLIGHTEST of overheating causes instant HG failure. And the big ends fail regularly too. That's why when Toyota first turbocharged it, they only increased the power to 230bhp from the N/A's 200bhp. Clearly any more just caused unreliability. That's also why when I decided to find a really good Mk3 15 years ago I was NOT interested in getting a turbo version! As even without increasing the boost they are still more prone to engine failure. (Plus the N/As have exactly the same suspension, brakes, steering, etc, so are just the same to drive) However, even my N/A's original engine had big end failure after 110,000 miles. I bought a "guaranteed" s/h engine that came with HG failure . . . another s/h engine came with big end failure ! So after all the wasted time and money fitting those, I bit the bullet and had a full engine recon, for £2500. But after another 110,000 miles I figured that engine was probably on it's last legs. So last Xmas I fitted a 2JZ-GE from a Mk4 Supra. This is quite an easy conversion (once you have sussed out all the wiring and exactly what parts you need), as the Mk3 uses a version the W58 so you can use the Mk4 bellhousing. Also no part fabrication is required, and if you look at the finished job by clicking the link below it's hard to tell the car didn't come with this engine. (even the viscous fan lines up with the Mk3's radiator cowling) Having got all the necessary parts together, the car was only actually off the road for 2 days ! As you know, the 2JZ-GE is virtually bulletproof, so now I have an engine that is as reliable as the rest of the car! Pics of my car here Edited July 19, 2014 by Roger NE (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Only just seen this thread or I would have posted earlier to advise you. I've owned my Mk3 Supra for 15 years, and LOVE it ! Mainly because of how it looks . . . when I'm in town I get far more comments from people of all ages about how they love it . . . far more than Porches, Audis, BMWs etc parked nearby. (I'm afraid Mk4 Supras do nothing for me). I love how it drives too . . . and it's also been the most reliable car I have ever owned . . . it was really over-engineered (very expensive in its day), and most mechanical parts go on and on - mine still has original wheel bearings, track rod ends, suspension bushes, etc etc (well in excess of 200,000 miles) BUT . . . the exception is the engine. The 7M engines have always had a couple of design flaws, the main one being the head gasket - even the SLIGHTEST of overheating causes instant HG failure. And the big ends fail regularly too. That's why when Toyota first turbocharged it, they only increased the power to 230bhp from the N/A's 200bhp. Clearly any more just caused unreliability. That's also why when I decided to find a really good Mk3 15 years ago I was NOT interested in getting a turbo version! As even without increasing the boost they are still more prone to engine failure. (Plus the N/As have exactly the same suspension, brakes, steering, etc, so are just the same to drive) However, even my N/A's original engine had big end failure after 110,000 miles. I bought a "guaranteed" s/h engine that came with HG failure . . . another s/h engine came with big end failure ! So after all the wasted time and money fitting those, I bit the bullet and had a full engine recon, for £2500. But after another 110,000 miles I figured that engine was probably on it's last legs. So last Xmas I fitted a 2JZ-GE from a Mk4 Supra. This is quite an easy conversion (once you have sussed out all the wiring and exactly what parts you need), as the Mk3 uses a version the W58 so you can use the Mk4 bellhousing. Also no part fabrication is required, and if you look at the finished job by clicking the link below it's hard to tell the car didn't come with this engine. (even the viscous fan lines up with the Mk3's radiator cowling) Having got all the necessary parts together, the car was only actually off the road for 2 days ! As you know, the 2JZ-GE is virtually bulletproof, so now I have an engine that is as reliable as the rest of the car! Pics of my car here BOOOM! and I called that out!! Stands to reason that Toyota would not completely redesign everything ground up and stands to reason that if VW enabled newer engines to fit back in older cars then Toyota would be no different, lets face it the 1JZ-GTE is cross compatible and the 2JZ_GTE fits in 1JZ-GTE cars ie MK3 supes then I would properly think that a 2JZ-GE would be a cheaper fix for a 7M-GTE fix. I reckon a decent 2JZ-GE in a Mk3 would be the bollox and wouldn't bust a gasket every ten minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Yes it really is quite straightforward mechanically . . . the 7M-GE and 2JZ-GE even use exactly the same Clutch The hardest thing was sussing out all the wiring to make everything work properly, including the PAS, Aircon, idle-ups, gauges etc etc (and could only find half-finished vague write-ups) . . . but I'm into electronics, so spent many weeks working it all out in advance and then making up plug & play adaptors. When I get round to I'm going to do a full write up of exactly what you need and what to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Sorry Roger I've only just seen your post, thanks for all the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 Well I wish I had seen your thread sooner - or else I would have warned you about the 7M engines! Lots of people have changed their head gaskets, only to have them fail again after a few hundred miles - for a start it's a very skilled job, especially when the 7M is so very fussy. So I would never buy a 7M engined car WITHOUT driving it for a couple of hours and then checking for tell-tale HG failure signs - and failure is much more common on the turbocharged engines. I would have suggested putting a 2JZ-GE in it to sell it . . . but to be honest it's only straightforward on a Manual car - there lots of issues if it's an Automatic (which I believe yours is). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 I well wished I had listened to people in the first place instead of thinking I know best all the time, although he did say the engine is the strongest point and been rebuilt blah blah. Its now on eBay anyway, have one bid at 99p at the moment so it's looking doubtful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 I'd consider taking it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 If it looks like it's gunno sell for under 100 quid I may aswel sell the wheels and whatever else and scrap the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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