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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

James's DJG Turbo Project


TheTurtleshead
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Cheers Chris, I'm fond if your old mans car too! Even if it is a slushbox!

 

So here is what the inside of a 6 speed looks like....! I only pulled it apart to re-seal it, but I decided to change the front main bearing as it was Just starting to show signs of wear. Cost me £35 from a local bearing company, for a genuine oem-spec koyo-made bearing, toyota wanted £280+ vat...!!!!! Luckily the rest of the gearbox looks in great condition.

 

Seals turn up next week, hopefully it will be back together then :) In the mean time I have re-sealed and re-assembled the rear half of the casing.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just a little update spam...!

 

Found a bit of some kind of broken pin lying in the bottom of my gearbox stuck to the magnet, when I pulled it apart. It turned out to be the fulcrum pin for the 5th/6th selector arm. I don't think it's the original, as it wasn't a good fit in the mechanism, and the head is smaller than the genuine toyota replacement which fits perfectly. Luckily it had snapped half way down as can be seen in the pictures. The top half of the pin was still in the swing arm and amazingly allowing the mechanism to work. My 5-6th change has always been a bit ropey, I'm pleased to report it's now lovely and smooth!

 

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Checking the thrust clearance on the new input shaft bearing(was beginning to wear). It shimmed up on the tight side, but should loosen up once the bearing settles in. The new bearing appears to have cured the tiny whine I had when cruising before, so fingers crossed it doesn't come back!

 

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The box has had new output, input, shifter, and inner input shaft seals(basically all of them), along with a re-seal of the flanges. Hopefully it'll be oil tight for a long time to come now!

 

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After fitting the new LA twin I found that my clutch still wouldn't disengage. I tried a Facelift N/A (Gold/smaller bore cylinder) slave cylinder for more travel, to no avail. I finally found that the issue was a collapsed thrust cone washer on the clutch release hub. This was allowing the hub to vibrate, which I could feel when depressing the pedal. The vibration was transmitting back through the plates in the clutch, causing them to fail to release.

 

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She's back on the road! Lovely to be driving her again, the HKS LA Twin is a great clutch, love this car!

 

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Edited by TheTurtleshead (see edit history)
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Love this car and wish I had half your knowledge when it comes to cars. Great work as always.

 

Cheers bud! Funny, I spend most of my time wishing I had twice as much!

 

Another forgotten update... Brakes were rebuilt and fitted with braided lines and new discs & bolts before Dragonball. :)

 

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  • 4 months later...

It's been so mild in the last few weeks, with plenty of rain to keep the roads clean, and warm enough to prevent the gritters emerging in my area...I thought the supra needed #onelastride of 2015.

 

I took some crap pictures, enjoy!

 

Also added a bonus bay pic from the NEC.

 

I have many things planned for the car over winter. Will update as and when I get around to them.

 

Merry Christmas All!

 

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Edited by TheTurtleshead (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I have decided to stop being a fool and keep this car... Hurray! To be honest it made me pretty miserable advertising it for sale in the first place. I don't think I'll find a car this clean again, and I know I'd only start obsessing over owning a supra again about 5 minutes after it drove away.. so without further adieu, the next round of mods are;

 

-I fully washed the underbody, undersealed and cavity waxed the car in the last two days.

-I removed and sold the J-spec rear brakes and I am now searching for some UK rear brakes to compliment the AP racing front calipers.

 

More has happened, more is planned, this will do as an update for now.

 

First off I washed the underside, arches, subframe etc... Yes I literally rolled around under the car with a wash mitt, hose and bucket of soapy water. I reasoned that cleaning off all the dirt rather than underselling over it was the way to go for best prep. I then left the car to dry fully before proceeding.

 

I stripped off the sill plates, sill trims, side pods, exhaust heat shields, exhaust.. etc.. Whatever I needed for access.

 

(The marks on the inner rear sill is where the tyre touches... I heated and massaged this a tad with a panel hammer to give a bit more clearance.)

 

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I then cracked open the underseal(with added waxyoyl!) It's the stuff that stays slightly tacky and gooey, repelling water for as long as possible. I still need to put the car on a ramp to drop the subframe/petrol tank and finish the under-sealing in the places I couldn't reach... but it will do for now.

 

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Finally I cracked open the waxoyl and filled every box section, sill and chassis leg with waxy film. The supra is perfect for this as all the sections have holes and grommets in place to get the wax injection probe in, no need to drill any extra holes to spray into. It's obviously hard to picture the inside of a waxed up sill or box section but I have added a pic of the sill, rear arch join(inner to outer), and the inside of the front sill, so show the waxoyl layer.

 

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Edited by TheTurtleshead (see edit history)
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Glad your keeping this, would have probably gone to Europe never to be seen again otherwise. Love the updates and agree about your knowledge, it makes your updates a cut above the norm. Hope to see it for real at some point.

 

Well thanks bud, praise indeed! I'm just a bloke in a shed though, anyone can do it if they want to :)

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