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The mkiv Supra Owners Club


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Everything posted by Konrad

  1. Tiny bulbs found inside of climate control are t1 bulbs with 4mm diameter.
  2. Sounds like classic boost pipe split
  3. If both sides are moving with same speed, it is just matter of tinkering until you set seat straight. There is also small part there with spiral thread, its plastic and tend to fail. I think ive seen someone selling metal equivalent of this for mk4 supra seat.
  4. both sides can be turned manually from the front of the seat. I think it was hex key, but it was ages ago since i had to do that. Just look under seat from front where rail meets seat.
  5. I used old valve, just cut top of it and welded it shut. Below you got youtube video with bolt being used instead of welding.
  6. In 1uzfe conversion world most people blank it, saves them trouble with valve failing and spreading oil everywhere. I had no issues or noises when turning wheels when stationary, revs drop down a fraction, but way above stall point.
  7. If it helps, when I installed 1uzfe in mine, i got rid of this valve and just blanked a hole. All is good.
  8. I used this settings with one cheap chinese copy adaptor, but at the moment I'm using ObdLink adaptor ( https://www.obdlink.com/ )
  9. What command you added in advance settings? in VERY ADVANCED settings just add this command ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8213F0 \n ATSP4 \n 0100 use ISO 14230-4 (fast init, 10.4k baud) as preffered OBD2 protocol This worked with 2jz VVTI and it also works with 1UZFE VVTI https://www.supraforums.com/threads/obdii-2jz-gte-vvti-jzs161.1118031/
  10. https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/caffeinemachine-weird-summer-weekends-tickets-114612493052 Just choose date and our time slot
  11. when i click link it asks for password and no dates can be chosen
  12. Black/White wire behind speedo cluster - cut it. RPM in cable from Yury box connect to loom side, red to IG+, black to G and RPM out wire to IG- (IG+, G and IG- are at back of cluster with screws in them). All written on the back of cluster. You also need to take off RPM dial and bypass resistor. https://www.supraforums.com/threads/n-a-tach-resistor-bypass.544909/
  13. I know it is old tread, but i would like to bump it with some info for future reference. Times move on and in 2020 we can get "magic boxes" from our Russian friends at https://all4swap.ru/product/spd These are truly amazing, you basically tap in between speed signal from ANY speed sensor and your speedo or rpm signal and your rpm counter (resistor on rpm gauge must be bypassed) and then you start car, open box and click button until your speedo/rpm starts showing proper values.Work on basically any 1uzfe or 1jz/2jz conversion to any car you wish. I just finished connecting 2 of them for my 1
  14. Just to make it clear, diameter heading towards front of this exhaust is 3'' right?
  15. Can you pm me photos and price please? Or msg me on facebook Konrad Resmer
  16. BAck box and middle pipe, what you got guys?
  17. If 2 different ECU's giving similar problems, it can be more to do with wiring than anything else, especially if you need to hold it up for it to work. ECU inside is solid circuits, so should not make any difference what position it is on. If it idles at 2k its probably overfuelling, hence pops from exhaust, which might be mistaken with misfire. Also - Supra normally idles high when cold. Have you checked temperature sensor - one which feeds back to ECU? Is it still idle at 2k rpms when hot? Have you done pin test to pull out fault codes? I've got NA auto and NA manual ECU's here, both were w
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