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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Please verify correct use of jack stands


d9988
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I found some good info via search, including the above diagram.

 

I see the crossmember points used to jack the car up. The diagram shows the jackstands used at the 4 chassis rail jacking points. My question is: is it okay to leave the car resting entirely on those 4 rail points? Seems like a lot of weight resting on those four points. Also, is it fine to use the regular jackstands like this:

 

http://www.tabonedirect.com/images/jackstand.jpg

 

If so I was planning on jacking up the front, placing the 2 front jackstands and removing the jack, then doing the same for the rear. Is that the appropriate way to do it? By the way I won't be under the car just doing brakes.

 

Thanks as always. Just got my Supra recently and still learning. :)

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I tend to do one end at a time so that there are always two wheels on the deck. I have visions of leaning over the front wing or something and pushing the car off the stands :)

 

-Ian

 

 

I agree.

 

I wouldn't use 4 stands at once, as I have nightmares about being underneath when someone else nudges it off the stands by accident.

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Toyota made the manual for a reason. Yes the car can be safety jacked up on the four points shown (completely off the ground) using the appropriate jack stands made by Toyota. Haven't got toyota jack stands? - then go to the wreckers and purchase three more Toyota jacks and use them. I have had my car on four stands for the last three months whilst I rebuild it. I also have two normal jack stands underneath, millimeters away from touching the car just in case. So far so good.

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Put the stands under the x/members, the ONLY way to use the sill reinforcement points is with proper rubber padded channels on the stands, which I would guess no one in the UK will have...? Or join the club of owners with dinged, rusting, twisted sill extensions and crushed chassis rails, which are an extreme pet hate of mine.

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join the club of owners with dinged, rusting, twisted sill extensions and crushed chassis rails, which are an extreme pet hate of mine.

 

Hellooooo :salute: :wave:

 

To be fair on myself, the sill seams on mine were flattened before I got it. I've always used the Toyota scissors jack to jack the sides up, and that is designed with a slot to save the rails. Mainly that's because I can't physically fit a jack under the sideskirts but also it's to avoid damaging the already fuxored sills :(

 

If I use a jack proper, I always have a block of wood between it and the diff/front crossmember.

 

-Ian

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Toyota made the manual for a reason. Yes the car can be safety jacked up on the four points shown (completely off the ground) using the appropriate jack stands made by Toyota. Haven't got toyota jack stands? - then go to the wreckers and purchase three more Toyota jacks and use them. I have had my car on four stands for the last three months whilst I rebuild it. I also have two normal jack stands underneath, millimeters away from touching the car just in case. So far so good.

 

Christ I wouldn't rely on the car staying up on four normal axle stands, the through of going under it with four Toyota scissors jacks being the only thing holding it up makes me break out into a sweat. The footprint of those is very small and it's narrow across as well. I'd go so far as to say this is a dangerous suggestion...

 

I don't go under the car with only one corner raised by the scissors jack without an axle stand being under there as well and taking the strain...

 

-Ian

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  • 12 years later...
Put the stands under the x/members, the ONLY way to use the sill reinforcement points is with proper rubber padded channels on the stands, which I would guess no one in the UK will have...? Or join the club of owners with dinged, rusting, twisted sill extensions and crushed chassis rails, which are an extreme pet hate of mine.

 

Hey Chris, how would I go about fixing my bent pinch weld sill?

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You need to make a steel clamp on device to first straighten the length of the return seam, then using a slide hammer screwed into the "device" gently tug it back to shape. Never seen anything commercial, you'll need to get an engineering shop to build you something out of 3/4 inch steel plate. Basically the device clamps to the return edge with three fine threaded bolts clamping the two halves together, then a threaded hole for the slid hammer shaft is needed to allow the slide hammer to keep tugging the return down until it's back where it should be. Finish with body hammers and anvil. Sounds easy, takes forever and needs some practice on a scrap car! Serrated edges on the jaws help stop it being pulled off. Can be a simple thing or you can have the shop go to town on something trick...

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You need to make a steel clamp on device to first straighten the length of the return seam, then using a slide hammer screwed into the "device" gently tug it back to shape. Never seen anything commercial, you'll need to get an engineering shop to build you something out of 3/4 inch steel plate. Basically the device clamps to the return edge with three fine threaded bolts clamping the two halves together, then a threaded hole for the slid hammer shaft is needed to allow the slide hammer to keep tugging the return down until it's back where it should be. Finish with body hammers and anvil. Sounds easy, takes forever and needs some practice on a scrap car! Serrated edges on the jaws help stop it being pulled off. Can be a simple thing or you can have the shop go to town on something trick...

 

Thank you sir!

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