How To: Valve Stem Seal Replacement

When you initially start the engine, unless the turbo seals are *really* worn, they shouldn't smoke.

If you get blueish smoke that clears after a few seconds, then it'll be the valve stem's. If it continues then it'll be something else.....

Thank you so much for this post. It's been very helpful .... I tried this valve seal job on my Aristo V. The problem being, I seemed to have dinged up the head a bit as I cannot get a couple of the valve buckets back in with out force. I don't want a floating or stuck valve ... any ideas on this or am I now stuck with getting the head looked at by a pro?

I feel pretty stupid. I de-knurled the tool but maybe I was concentrating too heavily on giving the tool a good wack with the hammer. The tool must have made contact with the head.

just read this. fantastic write up!

anyone wanna sell there overhead valve tool?

 

You then need to set the crank-shaft pulley to the 0 timing mark, with the no.1 cylinder at top dead centre.

To do this gently place the long screw driver into the plug hole of the no.1 cylinder, then turn the cranksshaft untill the timing mark lines up with the 0. NOW be careful, there's two timing marks on the pulley. (As I found out after a lot of head scratching later!) if you're turning the crankshaft clockwise it's the second timing mark that you want to use.

I am considering doing this procedure (smoke on startup after weekend is shocking now), but feel a little daunted. It's all pretty clear except for the timing related stuff, which is where I feel I might cock it up.

In the bit I have quoted above, you have said to place the screwdriver into no1 plughole, presumably to observe something, but you haven't said what to observe.

Does setting the crank pulley yellow-mark to 0 automatically imply TDC on no1 cylinder, and we're just using the screwdriver to confirm that this is correct ?

You say "set the crank-shaft pulley to the 0 timing mark, with the no.1 cylinder at TDC". Do I have to do both then, or does setting the crank to the 0 timing mark actually set the no1 piston to TDC (my limited understanding of engines suggests turning the crank will move the pistons directly, but I'm looking for clarification )

Yea thats correct, setting the crank pulley at 0 timing mark will set No1 and No6 piston at tdc but to not confuse you Just work your way along 1-6

Yea thats correct, setting the crank pulley at 0 timing mark will set No1 and No6 piston at tdc but to not confuse you Just work your way along 1-6

Please correct me if I am wrong but setting the crank pulley at 0 timing mark will either set number 1 and number 6 pistons at top dead centre OR at bottom dead centre. That is where the screw driver comes in with the crank pulley timing mark at 0 put the screw driver in number one spark plug hole and make sure the piston is at TDC not BDC

This is a great thread b.t.w its so comprehensive!

Please correct me if I am wrong but setting the crank pulley at 0 timing mark will either set number 1 and number 6 pistons at top dead centre OR at bottom dead centre. That is where the screw driver comes in with the crank pulley timing mark at 0 put the screw driver in number one spark plug hole and make sure the piston is at TDC not BDC

and if it is at BDC? Do you rotate the crank one full revolution more and then it'll be at TDC, or do you just turn the crank until no1 is at TDC and forget about what the crank timing mark says?

and if it is at BDC? Do you rotate the crank one full revolution more and then it'll be at TDC, or do you just turn the crank until no1 is at TDC and forget about what the crank timing mark says?

If it is BDC turn the crank 1 full turn and line up the timing mark again and it will be TDC

If it is BDC turn the crank 1 full turn and line up the timing mark again and it will be TDC

Actually I am typing before engaging my brain d&d was correct with the crank pulley timing mark lined up number 1 cylinder WILL always be at TDC but you also need to ensure the cam timing marks are lined up if not you will need to rotate the crank 360 degrees

I've created a PDF version which is a lot easier to print out. Corrected some typos etc..

You'll find it in the Members only downloads area under Engines.

 

Hope that's ok with everyone.

Top man. I was just pondering how best to print this myself. You've saved me a lot of effort. Thanks

In the interest of helping out here, I suggest checking the seal part numbers, my info suggest whats written here is the wrong way round and could end in trouble, I might well be wrong but please check.

James

Yup my mistake,

02088 is the exhaust seal and should be grey

02123 is the inlet seal and should be bronze.

 

Apologies!

Nice one Tony, There was me hoping a heap of people havnt put them on the wrong side.

IIRC the part number has been updated now and they're all the same now anyways.

Great guide, I think the Aristo will need doing soon!

I've never seen a valve spring tool like that before, its GENIUS!!

Great guide i cannot thank you enough for doing it.

I did mine over the weekend and fired her up yesterday with no problems

As has been said earlier in the thread i used to do these for around £400 plus parts and now i am at AFR this will still be the price, we don't use string however we keep the valves shut using compressed air;)

As has been said earlier in the thread i used to do these for around £400 plus parts and now i am at AFR this will still be the price, we don't use string however we keep the valves shut using compressed air;)

You tell me this AFTER ive done it.. when i live 1/2 a mile from AFR. Shame on you

Yeah but you're £400 better off and you have a nice sense of achievement.

Plus with no dis-respect to AFR, as this is aimed at less reputable garages, you know if you've done a good job of it and not bodged it.

Did mine a couple of months ago with the help of this guide Although I used compressed air to keep the valves shut instead of rope too.

After finishing the job and firing her up I had an enourmous hard on sense of achievement, but if I'm totally honest I don't think I would do it again. For the sake of £400 I'd rather pay someone else to do it for me

As has been said earlier in the thread i used to do these for around £400 plus parts and now i am at AFR this will still be the price, we don't use string however we keep the valves shut using compressed air;)

Welcome back now stop pimping your services in an FAQ thread of all things! Shame on you

I will however leave it in as it's a relevant example to people deciding if they should do it themselves or not.

-Ian

Brilliant guide Tony, very well laid out & good array of quality pictures!

I've had a think with the spanner & I am not good at these sort of things.

Mine needs doing so will hopefully be dropping the Supe at your house next week

Massive thanks Tony for taking the time to document this, I don't think I could complete this job without it.

Just completed the 1st valve & inserted upgraded Crower Springs & Ti Retainers at the same time, so it is possible

I just thought I'd update this post as the rest of the valves didn't go as smoothly as the 1st one. I found the tool more and more difficult to use, and by valve three I was struggling to get the keepers to go back in, I decided to make my own tool to compress the spring so I could take my time:

I also just found this pic of SF which looks like another great tool to use, not sure if it's custom or not but it's worth putting in this thread, taken from http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=589118&page=2 EDIT its a VW tool modified