Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 28

Thread: How To: Check the diagnostics codes

  1. #1
    I'm part of the furniture Moderator Ian C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    England - East Anglia
    Posts
    15,129
    Feedback
    13 (100%)

    Technical How To How To: Check the diagnostics codes

    When things go wrong with engine components, sensors, etc. there is a chance that it's going to be a failure mode that your ECU will recognise. Usually, you'll know something has happened because the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light, the red exclamation mark) lights up.

    The ECU stores an error code so that you can check later what the problem is/was. Rather than requiring a bug diagnostics machine, you can use a simple paperclip, or a short loop of wire. You use this to bridge the connections E1 and TE1 in the diagnostics port ( Location, 4th thumbnail along )

    For VVTi use Tc and E1 (from this thread)

    Update - Make sure you have de-immobilised your car! Some immobilisers stop the engine light from flashing.

    This makes the ECU flash the orange check engine light (not the red MIL light) when the ignition is switched to position 2. If it's a regular flash then there are no stored codes. Otherwise it will blink a few times, pause, blink a few times, and then give a longer pause. That's one stored code, and the number of blinks is the digit, so:
    blinkblinkblink pause blink pauuuuuse

    Is code 31. You may have more than one stored code, so it'll work its way through them from lowest to highest. It will then loop back to the start again.

    For example, if you had a misfire and you also had a problem with your speed delimiter you may find you got:

    blink pause blinkblinkblinkblink pauuuuuse blinkblinkblinkblink pause blinkblink pauuuuuse repeat

    Which is code 14 (problem in ignition circuit) and code 42 (No1 speed sensor problem)

    These codes are stored indefinitely and only cleared when you reset the ECU in some way (fuse removal, battery disconnect/flatten). This means you may have some red herring codes stored if you are at the initial stages of diagnosing a problem, so resetting the ECU, triggering the problem, and then reading the codes is the best method.

    -Ian
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Pete; 10-08-08 at 12:15. Reason: Misleading warning light description
    I love my job. It pays for my Supra.

  2. #2
    Hardcore medallion man Club Member markssupra's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    England - Essex
    Posts
    2,917
    Feedback
    11 (100%)
    mate, sorry to hear you got probs already.

    If I am reading the manual correctly, fault code 42 is No.1 speed sensor. 2JZ-GE engine

    All conditions below are detected continuosly for 8 sec or more.
    (a) No. 1 speed signal: 0 km/h (mph)
    (b) Engine speed : Between 2,000 rpm and 4,500 rpm
    (c) Coolant temp : 80 C or more
    (d) Load driving

    Trouble area.
    No.1 speed sensor
    combination meter
    open or short circuit in No. 1 speed sensor circuit
    ECU
    Last edited by markssupra; 05-05-06 at 21:17.
    My HKS GT 2835 Big Twins AeroTop project
    "ere, do you reckon we could gatecrash that spit roast over there!"
    quote Lee S, JAE 2008

    Precision Industrial Cutting Tools for Metals, Metal Matrix Composites, Composite materials and Wood
    GZ TT Aerotop BPU. 313 RWHP. Engine Advantages 30/03/08, soon to be HKS Big twins
    GZ TT Aero R.I.P. 2004

    Chair cover hire for weddings or occasions


  3. #3
    I'm part of the furniture Moderator Ian C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    England - East Anglia
    Posts
    15,129
    Feedback
    13 (100%)
    Dodgy speed convertor/delimiter

    This is a regular occurence so I don't mind it in the FAQ but if you want to discuss it further please fire up a thread in Technical

    -Ian
    I love my job. It pays for my Supra.

  4. #4
    I'm a newbie Club Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    England - Hampshire
    Posts
    53
    Feedback
    0

    Lost the plot?

    Hi.

    I may have completely lost the plot here but shorting TE1 and E1 doesn't seem to work for me! I have an L Reg UK spec mkIV. When I short them and then turn the key to position 2 I get a couple of seconds of interesting clunking noises from the engine bay and then two constant flashing indicators, the "over drive off" one and the orange engine warning light at the left of the right hand bank of warning indicator lights.
    I was expecting the MIL (big red exclamation mark in the centre) to at least flash constantly and more likely give me a bunch of codes. It remained completely constant with no flashing at all...

    I'm quite sure I connected up the right terminals as they are marked on the label in the diagnostic port cover.

    Any ideas as to what I've done wrong?

    Thanks,
    Rowland

  5. #5
    I'm part of the furniture Moderator Ian C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    England - East Anglia
    Posts
    15,129
    Feedback
    13 (100%)
    It's the orange engine one that you should be looking at.
    I love my job. It pays for my Supra.

  6. #6
    Supraless Club Member Jake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    England - Hampshire
    Posts
    26,423
    Feedback
    22 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian C View Post
    It's the orange engine one that you should be looking at.
    It is, but that's not what it says above.
    I've noticed a few people being confused by this. I think the first post should be corrected where it says "this makes the ECU flash the MIL when the ignition is switched to position 2"
    Fast, Reliable, Cheap. Pick Two.
    '03 Estoril Blue 53 plate BMW ///M3 6sp manual
    '93 Thunderstorm RZ Auto BPU 116.27mph mile Sold
    '95 Black RZ 6sp TT Sold
    '98 White VVTi Tiptronic BPU 4.993sec 0-60mph Sold
    '00 RSP VVTi 6sp GT40 single turbo 130.0mph mile 544.7 BHP, 520 Lbs/Ft torque Sold

  7. #7
    I'm a newbie Club Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    England - Hampshire
    Posts
    53
    Feedback
    0
    Thanks for the help.

    Rowland

  8. #8
    I'm part of the furniture Moderator Ian C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    England - East Anglia
    Posts
    15,129
    Feedback
    13 (100%)
    Correctamundo, edited and apologies for any confusion

    -Ian
    I love my job. It pays for my Supra.

  9. #9
    Work... what work? MEMBERSHIP EXPIRED
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    England - South Yorkshire
    Posts
    676
    Feedback
    7 (100%)
    hi idid what has been said on this post and my orange engine light along with the o/d light just flashes repeatedly what does this mean

  10. #10
    I'm addicted now! Club Member madmunky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    England - Hampshire
    Posts
    752
    Feedback
    1 (100%)
    Mine flashing repeatedly too, dont anyone know what that means?

  11. #11
    Back with boost! Club Member Jazzy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    England - Avon
    Posts
    677
    Feedback
    2 (100%)
    Means no stored codes.
    Black 6spd T61 Single, AEM ECU, 553fwhp & 520ftlb Now Sold
    Garage 2bartuning Dyno Graph My Mini Civic Type R

  12. #12
    . Club Member merckx's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    (Top Secret)
    Posts
    7,994
    Feedback
    4 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by gfrererr13 View Post
    wow i have that exact same problem when slowing down at the bottom of a hill too!!! anyone have that page?!

    Here are pages EG-686 to EG-688.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by merckx; 09-02-09 at 16:29.
    97 TT VVTI 6-Speed - RZ - BPU

    19" Volk GTC's

    Factory Leather Recaro's & CF Steering Wheel , Reas Suspension

  13. #13
    . Club Member merckx's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    (Top Secret)
    Posts
    7,994
    Feedback
    4 (100%)
    A member on here kindly made some copies of the workshop manual for fellow members.


    BE-71 to 74 , BE is "Body Electrical" are available in the manual below.

    http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/pag...80/a80tsrm.htm


    EG-686 to EG-688 , I couldn't find these in the online manual so I scanned them from my workshop manual.
    97 TT VVTI 6-Speed - RZ - BPU

    19" Volk GTC's

    Factory Leather Recaro's & CF Steering Wheel , Reas Suspension

  14. #14
    I'm part of the furniture Moderator Ian C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    England - East Anglia
    Posts
    15,129
    Feedback
    13 (100%)
    Technical questions should be posted in the technical section and not nailed onto an FAQ article, thanks.

    Ker-prune.

    -Ian
    I love my job. It pays for my Supra.

  15. #15
    Posting is my life! Club Member Jellybean's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Ireland
    Posts
    7,241
    Feedback
    6 (100%)
    Hey


    1. How do I know what pins are E1 and TE1 in the diagnostics port?
    2. It is the Engine light that emits the code OR the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light)?

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •