Hi everyone. Earlier this year I started looking into ECUs for my VVTi TT6 as I was going single turbo. It didn't take me long to realise that me being VVTi meant that a nice plug and play setup wasn't really an option as I couldn't find anyone that sells ecus with a pnp adapter for VVTi. Its a 5 plug instead of the non-vvti 3 plug. Then after getting a quote for supply and fitting a Syvecs that was out of my preferred budget (quoted 3K+), I decided to do things the hard way and wire in a Ecumasters EMU BLACK instead. I'd been following this ecu for a while and was impressed at what it offered with such a low price tag, and after speaking to someone who had done this themselves and said it wasn't THAT hard (even if they did have a masters in electrical engineering lol), I pulled the trigger on it. For around a grand I got the ECU, a pre-terminated wiring loom and the stock ecu header connector. The reason I got the stock ecu connector is so that I could basically just make my own pnp adapter that plugs in place of the stock ecu, as I had literally no idea how to go about modifying a stock loom! The most complex electrical thing I'd done before this is wiring in gauges etc!
So anyway, I ordered the stuff and then this turned up. (I also ordered a FPR so ignore that).
In the box there is a nicely laminated card that tells you what each of the ecu pins needs to be connected to. Quite quite few of them are optional (wideband AFR controller, touchscreen displays, optional switches etc), so its not quite as daunting as it looks.
Luckily there are a couple of stock 'pinout' charts on the internet that are totally free to view. IMO the best is wilbo666 which this would have been impossible without. On there it labels the stock connectors and then explains what each pin is for. Then it was down to me to pair them up with the new ecu pins. Most of them are really obvious, so that part was easy really, just a bit (very) time consuming. Some are a bit more confusing but I got there in the end.
Before I even thought about wiring a single thing anywhere, I made a pinout chart that said which pins needed to be paired up to make wiring as easy as possible. This is actually my latest revision, its all working if anyone wants to use it.
Once I had it all figured out I prepared to start soldering, something I hadn't done since school. call it 20 years lol. Now this is where the pre-terminated wiring starts to pay off. All the different wires are colour coded and labelled with what they are for. All I had to do was find the right wire and then check where it needs to be soldered to. I could plug it all into the ecu connectors later.
In a few sittings I managed to get everything soldered correctly. there were a couple of mistakes as the stock pin numbering is a little confusing, but I managed to get it done, and this was the fruit of my labour.
Then I connected everything to the new ecu plugs and basically had my pnp adapter made.
This ECU has an onboard 4bar MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor which it uses to calculate the fuelling, and it also needs an IAT (intake air temperature) sensor to make adjustments based on air temp, so I had to get a boss and sensor welded on the intercooler pipe before the throttle body for the IAT, and also ran a hose from the intake manifold to the ecu which is in my passenger footwell. (It will be moved behind my glovebox once im happy I don't need to fiddle with it anymore). I ran the wire and hose to the right side of the bay, though into the wheel arch, and then through into the corner of the passenger footwell via a yellow rubber bung down there already. Not hard to do. Then the ecu had everything I needed to run, and after loading a basemap from the Ecumasters site, checking everything was assigned correctly etc etc etc it actually started first time!
The supra comes with narrowband knock sensors as standard and its wise to upgrade those, so being tight as I am I researched which sensors id need, found out the commonly used shielded cable used for wideband knock sensors, and made my own rather than buying the kits. 2 of them cost me about £55 which is not bad going at all compared to buying them pre-made. fitting them wasn't so much fun though, and I had to take off the intake side of the engine right down to the block. Maybe there's an easier way, but I didn't know it. I wont lie, it was a ballache. But now that those are wired in I have decent knock detection. Mine isn't fully calibrated yet and the weather has got in the way, but the sensors are working and can see 'noise'.
I also wanted to use another one of the ecus many features, and bought a clutch switch so I could use 'flatshift'. What this does, or rather what it will do (setup but untested) will make the ecu retard ignition etc when I press the clutch in without letting off the throttle. This means I can keep it pinned, clutch in, the ecu retards ignition etc to hold back the rpm but keep boost built, and then I can let out the clutch and it will carry on, all without letting off the accelerator. That does all sound quite hard on my stock engine though, so I think I'll set it up so I can have some flamey gear changes when I feel like going full chav. The clutch switch in the pic screws right into the stock location.
So that's kind of where I am to date. Running a single turbo just on wastegate spring pressure at the moment, but its not fully mapped, so no full throttle pulls yet, but ive done some 3/4 throttle stuff and she's raring to go! hopefully I can get her mapped up, fit my 3 port *edit* boost controller (walk in the park after all this) and then eventually run 1.6bar on my Borg warner S362SXE, making 650bhp-ish with any luck.
I've not made this to brag about what I've achieved, but rather to point other people in the right direction if they fancied giving it a go. I couldn't find any information on this and basically had to PM and hassle anyone who would listen lol. I didn't do this for fun (good thing too), I done it because paying someone else to do it just wasn't financially viable. But in the end, I am glad that I gave it a go. So far so good. Amazingly it appears to work, even the stock DBW.
I hope this helps someone.
Cheers