Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Best way to remove seized arm bolts - rear subframe


Nathanj1142
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello,

 

Having trouble getting the bolts out of the lower arms on my supra - with the cam washers.

 

ive managed to get one out by razzing it with an impact and a big hammer on the end of it after heating it up - but the lobes on the cam washer tends to dig into the subframe and bend it out and dont want to damage it too much...

 

Is the only other way to keep hammering? or would it be better just to cut through them and get new ones.

 

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ll wear a face shield lol them sparks sting a bit.

 

When reassembling did you cover them in copper grease to prevent it from happening again? Just thinking of future me if I need to take it apart again

 

Cheers

 

 

/QUOTE]

 

Face shield is good, the thin discs can break quite easily

 

What you use as far as some lube is concerned will depend on what you replace the

bushes with, i think the polybush makers recommend a silicon based grease, we

used copper grease on mine but they were all new OE arms and we only used a

small amount on the bolt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You don't want to turn the cam bolt otherwise you could strip the bolt thread on the nut seeing it's only a half thread anyway. Then you'll never unwind the nut.

 

The easy way, if there is an easy way, I have used is to drill a series of holes along one flat of the holding nut then hit with a cold chisel. You could use a nut cracker if you have one. Once the nut is cracked or split wide enough open then the bolt can be easily hammered out. I figured it was a much better use of my time to do this than spend a long time with a grinder and dodging a stream of sparks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You don't want to turn the cam bolt otherwise you could strip the bolt thread on the nut seeing it's only a half thread anyway. Then you'll never unwind the nut.

 

The easy way, if there is an easy way, I have used is to drill a series of holes along one flat of the holding nut then hit with a cold chisel. You could use a nut cracker if you have one. Once the nut is cracked or split wide enough open then the bolt can be easily hammered out. I figured it was a much better use of my time to do this than spend a long time with a grinder and dodging a stream of sparks.

 

I'd guess the problem is they're seized inside the bushes, undoing the nut on the eccentric adjuster isn't the problem hence

they need to be cut off

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I sent my sub frame off to a stripper then galvaniser, well worth considering as it's not that expensive and removes all the rust and also add 0.1mm to the thickness.

 

Tried to find one near me but they’re all commercial based and won’t do it - I’m going to get shot blast and powder coat I think - I know it’s not as durable but will most likely undersell the bottom side

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A treated and dipped frame can get inside the sections and all the places you otherwise cannot reach. I ended up painting my frame but I could have just run the blinged up version.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]233805[/ATTACH]

 

I rang Humber and they said they couldn’t do it on ‘aged metal’. Hm strange I’ll give them another try tomorrow - looks awesome tho mate

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Powder coating is the kiss of death for steel.

It looks pretty on the outside, however, it cracks and lets water get behind it which is then trapped there and rots it away out of sight.

Galvanising is best, if not clean it up with media blasting and use a sacrificial anode galvanic paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I rang Humber and they said they couldn’t do it on ‘aged metal’. Hm strange I’ll give them another try tomorrow - looks awesome tho mate

 

 

/QUOTE]

 

You need to have the frame oven (not acid) treated first. This removes the paint and cures the rust so when the galvenizer acid dips the part the rust dissolves away easily. You may need to find a oven stripping company on your own but the results are well worth it and galvanizing is the only way you can get effective corrosion protection inside the frame. If you do go down this route then make sure you take plenty of pictures first as the zinc does pool in the bolt threads so needs to be melted out and tapped afterwards. You can use high temp greases instead but galvenizers can and do complain about grease in their treatment baths. Or you can leave the bolts in place and then heat and remove those when the frame comes back.

 

I went for the melt out and re-tap option myself so that method is tried and tested and works well. The info on what taps are required is on my galvanized sub frame project thread. I'd probably try the leaving the bolts in on any second go and then refitting with new if only for comparison if nothing else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.