Manual swap and engine build.

Hi guys/gals...

I am currently running a tt auto from standard, with a single conversion, sard side feed injectors and a walbro 255, with a piggyback ecu at 520 hp at the crank (in a nutshell).

Long story short, I plan to manual convert it (after 4 years of loving the auto) as I feel it's time for a change and want to go a notch up in the power level.

I would like to go to around the 700hp mark, maybe a bit more, maybe just under, it's a street car, but like to drag it.

The question is, what parts? I have a turbo good for the around 800bhp mark and plan to rebuild the bottom end oem and modestly build the top end (cams and retainers etc).

So, opinion time...I know there are threads dating back to the start of the noughties, but these days there is alot more stuff about in the way of parts and tested power levels.

So what gearbox goes in nicely (I'm not looking to throw 7k at an original supra getrag box).

Below are the parts I'm looking at so far, please fire your opinions away and better options of proven:

Box:

-E36/46 m3 420g 6 speed getrag manual

-350z cd009

Conversion kit:

-PMC for both of the above boxes (with clutches)

-Colins adaptors

Injectors:

-Asnu 900-1100cc

-Injector Dynamics id1050cc

-Bosch ev14

Cams (what lift/lobe is recommend for the 650-750 range?)

-GSC

-Brian Crower

Valve springs/retainers:

???

Fuel pump:

-walbro 450

-walbro 485?

ECU:

-link g4+ or similar

-syvecs

-haltech

Intercooler need increasing from 3 inch inlet/outlet?

All opinions and possible proof of parts working at the desired power level is appreciated (especially with the gearbox')

Thanks

ASNU 1100cc

Walbro 450/485lph

Upgraded fuel lines

SRD 264 cams will do the job nicely

SRD/Whifbitz/Mishimoto 4” Intercooler

3.5/4” exhaust

Link ECU or Syvecs

Or stay auto with an uprated autobox from SRD and if you go the Syvecs route you could also install flappy paddle as well and get the best of both worlds.

Or stay auto with an uprated autobox from SRD and if you go the Syvecs route you could also install flappy paddle as well and get the best of both worlds.

I would, but for the same price I could go manual. Also if I went to a built srd box, i would need a higher stall converter than i do now (3200) for it to work how I would like on the 1/4 mile. Which I could do but wouldn't be the most fun to drive on the street.

I would, but for the same price I could go manual. Also if I went to a built srd box, i would need a higher stall converter than i do now (3200) for it to work how I would like on the 1/4 mile. Which I could do but wouldn't be the most fun to drive on the street.

Yes I know what you mean we had a 3200 highstall and hated it on the road so went back to stockwhich is much better on the power we run but doesn't help launches on the drag strip. Good luck with your build and hope you get what your aiming for.

ASNU 1100cc

Walbro 450/485lph

Upgraded fuel lines

SRD 264 cams will do the job nicely

SRD/Whifbitz/Mishimoto 4” Intercooler

3.5/4” exhaust

Link ECU or Syvecs

Thanks, this is the info I need, thanks.

So, why asnu not Id?

And with the intercooler, 4 inch core, but what size piping?

Bump?

Thanks, this is the info I need, thanks.

So, why asnu not Id?

And with the intercooler, 4 inch core, but what size piping?

Sorry only just seen your reply.

As far as I’m aware, ASNU injections have a better spray pattern than the competitor.

You’ll need the piping to match the 4” core which I’d imagine is also 4”.

Bump?

For 700-800hp you can choose from the following, all will be suitable:

Injectors

ASNU, ID or Injector Clinic 1000cc will be fine. They are all bosch based injectors and run like stock injectors. I've seen them all do big power and run just fine, there won't be any gains from spray pattern etc that are noticable. Whatever you can get the best deal on just go with those.

Pair these with a single 450lph or 485 fuel pump, an aeromotive fuel pressure reg and some AN6 fuel feed lines and you can do 700bhp with factory hardlines from fuel tank on pump fuel. For 800hp or more you will want to run an AN8 feed from fuel tank, which will use a larger fuel filter before feeding the rails.

Cams (what lift/lobe is recommend for the 650-750 range?)

- GSC Stage 1 or BC 264's are fine for 750. Would only go to GSC Stage 2 or BC 272 if you plan on 800hp+ and want to sacrifice the low end to make more on top.

- If you plan on increasing rev limit as your turbo still wants to make power after the stock limiter then think about putting in some BC titanium valve retainers & springs.

Intercooler inlet and outlet being 3'' is fine, but whats the core size and what brand is it? Normally chinese intercoolers that are 3'' cores struggle with high boost and don't cool down the air charge enough, so have massive issues with IAT's climbing 20/30 degrees in a pull, which is not good for making reliable power. A chinese 4 or 5'' cooler dosen't struggle as much due to larger surface area. Best results I've seen are with ETS intercoolers, usually 4'' is good for big single turbo.

ECU, all the ones you listed will run the car quite well and can support the needs of a big single supra. Go with whatever your tuner is most familiar with and whatever you can afford. Don't forget to add sensors like oil pressure, fuel pressure, knock sensor etc to your ECU costs. The more data the better.

Gearbox.

Technically the BMW and CD009 kits work, but they are usually noisy boxes due to adapter kits being made out of ally, using lightened flywheels that have no dampening. If I had a pound for everytime I've heard someone complain after doing one of those conversions as they don't sound or drive like stock or they are constantly fixing problems on it, I'd be able to buy a V160.

There is a misconception that doing a BMW or CD009 kit is going to be cheaper. But in my experience to do either kit properly with good parts, and not thrown together out of whatever scrap parts people have found of the internet you are looking at 4k-5k minimum for the conversion.

At that point you are in the price region of an R154 swap, which drives beautifully. Especially if you buy a new box from Toyota. Downside is that after 700hp it can be a bit hit and miss as to whether the box will take the abuse.

Realistically if you want a swap that is going to take some abuse, drive fairly well then I would only ever choose between T56 or V160. Both will cost roughly 8k by the time you get all the parts associated with both boxes. T56 at least comes with a warranty.

For 700-800hp you can choose from the following, all will be suitable:

 

Injectors

ASNU, ID or Injector Clinic 1000cc will be fine. They are all bosch based injectors and run like stock injectors. I've seen them all do big power and run just fine, there won't be any gains from spray pattern etc that are noticable. Whatever you can get the best deal on just go with those.

 

Pair these with a single 450lph or 485 fuel pump, an aeromotive fuel pressure reg and some AN6 fuel feed lines and you can do 700bhp with factory hardlines from fuel tank on pump fuel. For 800hp or more you will want to run an AN8 feed from fuel tank, which will use a larger fuel filter before feeding the rails.

 

Cams (what lift/lobe is recommend for the 650-750 range?)

- GSC Stage 1 or BC 264's are fine for 750. Would only go to GSC Stage 2 or BC 272 if you plan on 800hp+ and want to sacrifice the low end to make more on top.

- If you plan on increasing rev limit as your turbo still wants to make power after the stock limiter then think about putting in some BC titanium valve retainers & springs.

 

Intercooler inlet and outlet being 3'' is fine, but whats the core size and what brand is it? Normally chinese intercoolers that are 3'' cores struggle with high boost and don't cool down the air charge enough, so have massive issues with IAT's climbing 20/30 degrees in a pull, which is not good for making reliable power. A chinese 4 or 5'' cooler dosen't struggle as much due to larger surface area. Best results I've seen are with ETS intercoolers, usually 4'' is good for big single turbo.

 

ECU, all the ones you listed will run the car quite well and can support the needs of a big single supra. Go with whatever your tuner is most familiar with and whatever you can afford. Don't forget to add sensors like oil pressure, fuel pressure, knock sensor etc to your ECU costs. The more data the better.

 

Gearbox.

Technically the BMW and CD009 kits work, but they are usually noisy boxes due to adapter kits being made out of ally, using lightened flywheels that have no dampening. If I had a pound for everytime I've heard someone complain after doing one of those conversions as they don't sound or drive like stock or they are constantly fixing problems on it, I'd be able to buy a V160.

 

There is a misconception that doing a BMW or CD009 kit is going to be cheaper. But in my experience to do either kit properly with good parts, and not thrown together out of whatever scrap parts people have found of the internet you are looking at 4k-5k minimum for the conversion.

 

At that point you are in the price region of an R154 swap, which drives beautifully. Especially if you buy a new box from Toyota. Downside is that after 700hp it can be a bit hit and miss as to whether the box will take the abuse.

 

Realistically if you want a swap that is going to take some abuse, drive fairly well then I would only ever choose between T56 or V160. Both will cost roughly 8k by the time you get all the parts associated with both boxes. T56 at least comes with a warranty.

This is awesome Mike - I like the detail! I’ve learnt some stuff (I’m also getting parts together for single build, with similar aim!)

For 700-800hp you can choose from the following, all will be suitable:

 

Injectors

ASNU, ID or Injector Clinic 1000cc will be fine. They are all bosch based injectors and run like stock injectors. I've seen them all do big power and run just fine, there won't be any gains from spray pattern etc that are noticable. Whatever you can get the best deal on just go with those.

 

Pair these with a single 450lph or 485 fuel pump, an aeromotive fuel pressure reg and some AN6 fuel feed lines and you can do 700bhp with factory hardlines from fuel tank on pump fuel. For 800hp or more you will want to run an AN8 feed from fuel tank, which will use a larger fuel filter before feeding the rails.

 

Cams (what lift/lobe is recommend for the 650-750 range?)

- GSC Stage 1 or BC 264's are fine for 750. Would only go to GSC Stage 2 or BC 272 if you plan on 800hp+ and want to sacrifice the low end to make more on top.

- If you plan on increasing rev limit as your turbo still wants to make power after the stock limiter then think about putting in some BC titanium valve retainers & springs.

 

Intercooler inlet and outlet being 3'' is fine, but whats the core size and what brand is it? Normally chinese intercoolers that are 3'' cores struggle with high boost and don't cool down the air charge enough, so have massive issues with IAT's climbing 20/30 degrees in a pull, which is not good for making reliable power. A chinese 4 or 5'' cooler dosen't struggle as much due to larger surface area. Best results I've seen are with ETS intercoolers, usually 4'' is good for big single turbo.

 

ECU, all the ones you listed will run the car quite well and can support the needs of a big single supra. Go with whatever your tuner is most familiar with and whatever you can afford. Don't forget to add sensors like oil pressure, fuel pressure, knock sensor etc to your ECU costs. The more data the better.

 

Gearbox.

Technically the BMW and CD009 kits work, but they are usually noisy boxes due to adapter kits being made out of ally, using lightened flywheels that have no dampening. If I had a pound for everytime I've heard someone complain after doing one of those conversions as they don't sound or drive like stock or they are constantly fixing problems on it, I'd be able to buy a V160.

 

There is a misconception that doing a BMW or CD009 kit is going to be cheaper. But in my experience to do either kit properly with good parts, and not thrown together out of whatever scrap parts people have found of the internet you are looking at 4k-5k minimum for the conversion.

 

At that point you are in the price region of an R154 swap, which drives beautifully. Especially if you buy a new box from Toyota. Downside is that after 700hp it can be a bit hit and miss as to whether the box will take the abuse.

 

Realistically if you want a swap that is going to take some abuse, drive fairly well then I would only ever choose between T56 or V160. Both will cost roughly 8k by the time you get all the parts associated with both boxes. T56 at least comes with a warranty.

That is probably the best write up and advice ever, thankyou!

The intercooler is just a cheap Chinese 3" core. Will be getting a decent branded one with a larger core.

The issue I still have is the gearbox. In total I plan on spending around 10k om parts, max 12k, and will be doing all of it myself, except ofcourse the tuning.

So even though I would love a t56 or v160, its probably out of my budget, bearing in mind I need to build the motor.

Many thanks,

Tom

Why do you need to build the motor?

Get a compression check done, if all looks healthy it will be fine for 700bhp.

Obviously these engines are getting tired now, but having said that if it’s been well maintained and seems healthy then you’ll be fine.

Why do you need to build the motor?

 

Get a compression check done, if all looks healthy it will be fine for 700bhp.

 

Obviously these engines are getting tired now, but having said that if it’s been well maintained and seems healthy then you’ll be fine.

It's allready at 1.5 bar. Don't really want to run more boost in a stock motor etc. To make more power healthy, needs cams etc. May aswell build it so it's not waiting to go bang. I did the compression and was about 140-150psi across all 6.

It's allready at 1.5 bar. Don't really want to run more boost in a stock motor etc. To make more power healthy, needs cams etc. May aswell build it so it's not waiting to go bang. I did the compression and was about 140-150psi across all 6.

What turbo have you got? If you are already at 1.5 bar, you may struggle getting to 700bhp if its only doing 520hp at 1.5.

For pump fuel on a midframe turbo its rare to see over 1.8 bar boost with it still being safe for the engine in terms of detonation & pre-ignition.

What turbo have you got? If you are already at 1.5 bar, you may struggle getting to 700bhp if its only doing 520hp at 1.5.

 

For pump fuel on a midframe turbo its rare to see over 1.8 bar boost with it still being safe for the engine in terms of detonation & pre-ignition.

Turbonetics TNX 45/64.

It states on the chart on a 3.0 litre it should be capable of 850bhp.

The engine at 1.5 bar is completely stock, not even cams. It also is currently using a crap piggyback emanage blue.

I'm sure with more compression with a rebuild and cams/valves, bigger intercooler and piping should help it?