Simo's J-Spec Renaissance Red RZ TT6

First of all, apologies if this is the wrong forum to post this in, for some reason I couldn't post it in the technical -> projects section.

After approximately 2 years of searching, I finally found a manual twin turbo Supra that met my requirements. It had to be red, and it had to be a manual twin turbo I have 2 end game cars, one is the Supra and the other is an R35 GTR. After much deliberation, I felt this was the right time to buy a Supra, as prices are going a bit silly and I may not have been able to afford it in a year or two if prices continue to trend the way they are.

I got exceptionally lucky by emailing Ozz at HJA about a silver Supra originally, which had sold, and by chance he had just got a red one in so off I went to see it the next day and put a deposit down! It's a 1995 J-Spec manual twin turbo RZ and I'm absolutely stoked with it!!!

Some pictures:

And under the bonnet:

The car has a shade over 150,000 km on, so approx 93,000 miles. Ozz did an oil and filter change and I've driven about 600 miles or so since I got it back in April. It drives very well, however I have made some observations...

- Slight rattle when slipping clutch (pulling away, or reversing into the garage), I suspect this might be the flywheel

- I get a slight clunking when driving through 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears, it fees like the drivetrain moving, however the engine mounts look solid and I've partially poly bushed the dog ear mounts on the diff with the super pro kit. The only other thing I think it may be is slight play in the prop. I'm doing the gearbox and diff oil, and selector seal this weekend hopefully, so I might be able to have a better look under there

- The SMIC fins turn to dust when I touch them. Should I get the Whifbitz SMIC? I like the idea of the front mount but I really like the active spoiler and want to keep it

- The cam belt is due to be changed, I'm not terrified about this as it's a non interference engine

- Usually, when the car has warmed up the stock BOV makes a tsh sound, however when I've been driving it for half an hour or so the BOV makes a flutter sound. Is this normal? When I got the car, it always did the latter

What I've done so far:

- Changed spark plugs and coil clips, I had a misfire between 2-3k rpm, problem solved. Previous owner bodged the clips back on with some strange glue (seen in red in the picture below)

Whilst I was waiting for the coil clips to be delivered, I cleaned up the idle control valve:

This weekend I plan to change the diff and gearbox oil, I've also got a weep from what appears to be the gear selector seal. I anticipated this so I ordered the part and will try to fit it this weekend by pushing it over the old one as recommended on here.

Ultimately, I want to be able to drive the car as much as possible, although I do want to increase the power. I'm torn because I want to keep it stock, but I'm itching to go single turbo eventually. I don't plan on driving it through the winter or in the rain, the underside is immaculate and I plan to keep it like that.

What order of events do people generally proceed with these cars? As far as I can tell, it's completely stock apart from a Fujitsubo cat-back and Enkei PF-01 wheels. I'm absolutely torn at the moment how to progress, and would love some input or advice!

1. Aesthetics like facelift lights and indicators, and trying to source a TRD spoiler? I definitely don't want to take it away from it's stock appearance on the outside

2. Maintenance items, get everything working how it should do in stock form, then proceed to tune (flywheel, clutch, gearbox and diff seals, bushes, suspension etc)

3. BPU upgrades (double decat, restrictor ring, boost controller, wideband AFR, colder plugs and updated fuel pump)

4. Go single

I will be doing all the work myself and for the big jobs, the prime time to do this would be over the winter in my garage. Would love to hear some opinions!

looks very nice and clean.

i dont think you should add a TRD spoiler, i think it works better when you have some sort of aftermarket rear skirt or bumper. TRD spoiler and stock rear bumper/skirt doesnt look right to me.

personally i think facelift rearlights, headlights, and front indicators would look better. it makes it look much fresher.

looks very nice and clean.

i dont think you should add a TRD spoiler, i think it works better when you have some sort of aftermarket rear skirt or bumper. TRD spoiler and stock rear bumper/skirt doesnt look right to me.

personally i think facelift rearlights, headlights, and front indicators would look better. it makes it look much fresher.

Nice car, bro.

Nice car mate.

Slight rattle when slipping clutch (pulling away, or reversing into the garage), I suspect this might be the flywheel

- I get a slight clunking when driving through 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears, it fees like the drivetrain moving, however the engine mounts look solid and I've partially poly bushed the dog ear mounts on the diff with the super pro kit. The only other thing I think it may be is slight play in the prop. I'm doing the gearbox and diff oil, and selector seal this weekend hopefully, so I might be able to have a better look under there

I had the same rattle, had it checked out and it's completely normal. Same with the clunking through 1st, 2nd and 3rd. I think it's literally just the noisy gearbox these cars come with, it usually improves after a few minutes. Apparently prop play is fairly normal

I also cleaned the ICV out as one of my first things - made the car idle alot smoother and i adjusted the idle so it was around 750

Thanks for your kind words Alex, mr.gill and tayr. I think I'm going to go down the face lift lights route and get a new SMIC for now.

Tayr, how did you adjust the idle? Mine seems to idle more smoothly but can go as low as 650rpm sometimes. I'm hopefully getting it on a ramp today so I can have a good look under whilst I'm doing the gearbox and diff fluid.

Managed to get some work done this weekend on the Supra. Changed the gearbox and diff oil, and had the exhaust off to have a rummage around for the clunking culprit.

In short, I'm still stumped. Engine mounts look good. There's ever such slight play in the prop, the centre bearing looks decent, it's certainly not perished on the rubber around it. Subframe bushings are in decent condition, the only thing that looks suspect is possible the transmission mounting. Could that be enough to cause the prop clunking when changing in low gears?

Some pics...

i had/still have the same problem as you, and i also had the gear selector seal problem as well. when that was sorted i noticed oil had dripped on the gear box mount rubber and made it really soft. so changed that as well but still have the noise. as many have said i think the 6 speed box's are just a bit noisy and clunky so nothing to worry about.

nice car btw, looks in very good condition

i had/still have the same problem as you, and i also had the gear selector seal problem as well. when that was sorted i noticed oil had dripped on the gear box mount rubber and made it really soft. so changed that as well but still have the noise. as many have said i think the 6 speed box's are just a bit noisy and clunky so nothing to worry about.

nice car btw, looks in very good condition

Thanks for your kind words Chris. Looks like it's just characteristic then! I guess it's because I haven't been out in another one so the noise makes me a bit concerned, maybe they all do it! I may change out the transmission mount after I do the input seal just to freshen things up a bit! Just found your car thread, looks lovely too mate. Great choice on the colour

Thought I'd update this, it's turning into a build thread! Used the lockdown to do a single turbo conversion. I went with the street torque kit from PHR, and got it shipped over from Real St in Florida!

Went for a Precision 6266 JB 0.81AR as I'm 'only' aiming for 600bhp.

Parts list:

• Precision 6266 JB 0.81AR
  
• Precision 46mm wastegate
  
• Screamer pipe
  
• Precision 50mm BOV
  
• Link G4+ ECU
  
• Aeromotive FPR
  
• FIC 1000cc injectors
  
• Walbro 450LPH fuel pump
  
• Top feed fuel rail kit
  
• Fuel pulsation damper delete
  
• FMIC kit
  
• New OEM flywheel
  
• RPS Max clutch
  
• Spark plugs
  
• Wideband O2 (for Link ECU)
  
• Boost control solenoid (for Link ECU)
  
• Link MAP sensor
  

Maintenance list:

• Cambelt, tensioner and pulley
  
• Crank pulley
  
• Valve stem seals
  
• Cam seals
  
• Front/rear main seals if leaking
  
• Water pump
  
• Oil and filter
  
• Fuel filter
  
• Gear selector seal
  

So I got to work a few weeks ago, started removing the rad, airbox and intercooler piping

And continuing

Well, you guys weren't lying about the twin turbos removal, it was an absolute pain particularly the b*tch bolt. Ended up using a 14mm stubby and some leverage. Hands were absolutely battered after but managed to get them out after removing the cartridges too

And here they are, the second turbo was on its way out

Found it much easier to just get in the engine bay and work

So much room there without the twins in

Used the SST tool from Toyota and a puller kit helped get the crank bolt and pulley off

Checked valve clearances, all in spec, then camshafts out using correct undoing sequence, and the rope trick to do valve stem seals, managed to get it down to half hour for a cylinder with the practise

Cams back in with new cam seals, employing the correct tightening sequence and torque. Cam belt on and time with new pulley and tensioner. Crank pulley on and torqued up to 239ft-lbs using a 3/4 drive torque wrench and cam covers back on

Wastegate attached to manifold with screamer pipe in the kitchen

And on the car

And this is where I've got to so far- turbo on and orientated correctly, downpipe on, just need to tighten up oil feed and returns (I'll leave turbo feed loose to crank engine to make sure oil will come out before first start)

Plenty left to do, need to get the front bumper off next so I can sort the FMIC out and then attack the fuelling side of things once that's all in.

Challenges along the way:

• Getting those twins out (b*tch bolt)
  
• Sometimes had to reset the rope in the cylinder when doing valve stem seals, slows you down quite a bit
  
• Being meticulous during camshaft removal and refitting, take your time and double check
  
• Getting correct turbo orientation is quite fiddly
  

I have my fair share of experience working on cars, I've done head gaskets, engine removals, clutches etc all on my own but doing a single conversion is definitely fun (as everything just bolts up) and I've really enjoyed it so far! Feel free to ask any questions as I have brushed over a lot.

So over the past few days I managed to make a bit more progress. I started taking the front bumper off and headlights to attack the intercooler plumbing

Was pretty fiddly and I had to cut some of the lower inserts to get the piping to fit correctly around the sides. Was also a bit time consuming getting the power steering cooler relocated by the side light above the intercooler piping on the right hand side

Gave it a good clean in there (it was very dusty behind the bumper) and reinstalled everything! Having felt quite exhausted from rolling around on the floor for hours I was happy to get half the inlet manifold off to get closer to installing the injectors and top feed fuel rail kit. Never done this bit before so it's going to take a bit of learning on my part

Also thinking ahead slightly, If I depressurise the fuel tank I should be okay taking everything from the fuel filter onwards off right? Or am I completely wrong here?

In terms of the charcoal canister, should this stay? I'm struggling to find positions for my oil catch can from PHR.

Some more updates, getting closer and closer!

Got the fuel rail built up, ended up using loctite 5940 for the injector adapters. This is them not fitted, just sitting in there

Fuel rail and injectors installed on the inlet manifold

Making up the braided lines for the return to FPR and FPR drain, found a neat technique using tape and a zip tie which kept the braids together really well, left is how the line got delivered, right my technique

Intake plenum back on and FPR installed

Aux/serpentine belt tensioner back in, aux belt back on, starting to look like an engine again

Not far away now. Need to fill up PS with Dexron III, get the radiator back in with viscous fan and air con fan, coolant, then I'll be in a position to install the ECU and think about getting it started up!

Great thread - enjoyed the read.

Surprised you have gone single so quickly, but great play with the lock down as a good excuse to tinker

Looking forward to the next update, and seeing what you think of the turbo kit.

Keep up the excellent work

Make sure to post up a video of the first start. LoL.

I love the progress! Awesome !

See y'all next time

Rishi

Great thread - enjoyed the read.

 

Surprised you have gone single so quickly, but great play with the lock down as a good excuse to tinker

 

Looking forward to the next update, and seeing what you think of the turbo kit.

 

Keep up the excellent work

Thanks for your kind words mate. Yeah I hadn't planned going single so quick, it was just the fact I was getting a bit of smoke from (presumably) the second turbo. Lockdown came at the perfect time to sway my decision!

Make sure to post up a video of the first start. LoL.

 

I love the progress! Awesome !

 

 

See y'all next time

 

Rishi

 

/QUOTE]

 

Thanks for your kind words mate. Will definitely post up a video of the first startup. With some luck it could be very soon!

 

Managed to get the radiator, fan(s) and the coolant expansion/overflow tank in yesterday. Torqued down the cam covers and double checked over my work in the engine bay.

 

 

Not a fat lot left to do: need to connect up fuel lines and get a new fuel filter, thermostat to go in, coolant needs to go in, PS fluid, coil packs back on, and ECU needs to go in. Could be in a position to crank it and see what happens! Will keep this updated.

You don’t mess around lol

Good read, I’m glad your doing what you want to the car then worrying about keeping it stock

It’s always the same .. people who have stock want to modify and modify owners like the idea of going back to stock

I’m going single soon as was going to start stripping over isolation but going to wait till next year due to some projects on the house.

What bolts were an asshole on the turbos ? I’m sure I’d look forward finding out lol

What ECU you going for

What you pay for it ? Never to sure what there going for.. handy to know for insurance valuation

Good luck woth the build

Nice one Si, you've made great progress!

I feel your pain with getting the twins off, they are a complete bastard!

Looking forward to catching up soon [emoji1303]

You don’t mess around lol

 

Good read, I’m glad your doing what you want to the car then worrying about keeping it stock

 

It’s always the same .. people who have stock want to modify and modify owners like the idea of going back to stock

 

I’m going single soon as was going to start stripping over isolation but going to wait till next year due to some projects on the house.

 

What bolts were an asshole on the turbos ? I’m sure I’d look forward finding out lol

What ECU you going for

 

What you pay for it ? Never to sure what there going for.. handy to know for insurance valuation

 

Good luck woth the build

Thanks for your kind words mate, yeah I really want to experience the 'enhanced' version of a Supra and I'll be keeping everything to go back to stock if I want to one day.

If you're anywhere near Stevenage I'd be happy to lend a hand if you get into a pickle doing the single conversion! Most of the bolts are okay, but there's one near the '2 to 1' section of the manifold that you can't get a socket on. Literally need a 14mm stubby spanner and lever off the strut area.

I'm now going for the Syvecs S7i that's on back order, will be a hold up to get it for about 3 weeks I think but getting everything ready to plug it straight in and attempt to start it so I can get it to Paul for calibration.

Nice one Si, you've made great progress!

 

I feel your pain with getting the twins off, they are a complete bastard!

 

Looking forward to catching up soon [emoji1303]

 

/QUOTE]

 

Thanks for your kind words as well Gaz, been trying my best to crack on! My hands were battered from it, I was actually going to go hybrid twins but as I was taking them off I was like 'they are NOT going back on'... massive dent in my wallet in that one sentence haha!

 

Looking forward to catching up too, can't wait to see all the goodies you've got on yours in person!!

Great stuff Si! Looks like you’re doing a great job. Nice work on the detailed build thread aswell! Always nice to have a read when you update it. Hopefully catch up at Bluewater meet soon and have a look at the great work

Love these sort of threads, great work

Great stuff Si! Looks like you’re doing a great job. Nice work on the detailed build thread aswell! Always nice to have a read when you update it. Hopefully catch up at Bluewater meet soon and have a look at the great work

Thanks for your kind words Chris, trying to make the most of the lockdown, I miss driving it massively now cannot wait for it to be done! Looking forward to catching up too mate!

Love these sort of threads, great work

Thanks for your kind words dude, will keep this as updated as I can.

One very minor update... Rear tyres arrived over the weekend!

Blimey I've really not updated this much have I?!

In a nutshell, it is done. Just want to do a few dress up bits in the future and then attack the suspension components for a refresh.

Leading on from the last update, Managed to get everything reinstalled, coolant topped up etc and this was how she was looking

Here's the S7i going in

Couple of minor issues along the way, I snapped the coolant temp sensor at some point, so I replaced both of them in there whilst I could

Had some starting issues, engine cranked fine but wouldn't fire. Having worked on fuel injection systems in industry for a couple of years I jumped into the crank sensor signal plots and noticed the thresholds were too high to detect anything (if memory serves 1.5V high trigger default lowered to -> 0.75V). Fired straight away after that parameter change. 

Sent her down to Paul for clutch, flywheel and engine cal, made 460whp/450ft lbs at 1.5 bar which I was very happy with on some unknown blend of 95/99 and stock cams

And a final engine bay shot

Did a few bits and bobs after this- replaced the clutch master and slave for new OEM parts, also put solid bushings in the shifter cradle as they were completely shot and finally managed to get a TRD (speedo) cluster in km

As I'm a bit of a sadist I've saved the 264 cams to put in at a later date which should help the 6266 breath better and I hope to breach the 500whp mark. Delays to Toyota parts over the (last) lockdown meant I could have been waiting months for new valve bucket shims. I was impatient and kept the stock cams in as the 264's knocked all the valve clearances out and ultimately I wanted the car back on the road ASAP. I missed driving it sorely.

It's a hoot now, I absolutely love it. It really has brought out the 2JZ character by doing a single conversion, albeit at the determent of a quicker spool up time. The engine bay is now much more simplified. 

I need to address some engine bay tidying like sorting out a decent location for the oil catch can (likely over by where the charcoal canister should be), take the cam covers off and paint them, get a splitter as I removed the active spoiler for the intercooler and a handful of other bits and bobs to keep me busy through the winter. Had a serious lack of motivation during this lockdown probably because I worked on it so much over the summer but I'm sure it will come back in a short while. All I want to do is drive it now!

Hope everyone is doing well over this second lockdown. Any questions about anything please let me know I have done all this DIY apart from the clutch, flywheel and engine cal so will be happy to answer any more detailed questions  

Great to see you got it all up and running.

You must be made up completing nearly all the work yourself.

Comparing the drive to stock, do you think it’s changed it a lot normal drivability wise?

Nice project Simon, and a nice write up as always. Hopefully we’ll all be able to meet up at a Bluewater meet soon for a catch up 

16 hours ago, Pudsey said:

Great to see you got it all up and running.

You must be made up completing nearly all the work yourself.

Comparing the drive to stock, do you think it’s changed it a lot normal drivability wise?

 

Thanks for your kind words Pudsey, really was a dream for me to do this work myself, the only thing left on the list is to complete an engine build myself then my bucket list is complete (spanner turning wise).

I really don't think it's changed a lot normal drivability wise- it just scares me a lot more on full chatter now! I know when on the original twins I felt the small turbo spooling from 1500rpm onwards or thereabout and obviously you get the thump at 4000rpm from the second turbo, that surge seems to come on from 3000rpm and a hell of a lot stronger with the single. The 6266 is considered a relatively small single, so maybe that helps with the transition. I am really enjoying the simplicity of the engine bay now though, those twins must have taken 6-7 hours for me to get off I really struggled with the one infamous bolt. I genuinely think I could have the single off in 10 mins tops.

11 hours ago, Chris Bailey said:

Nice project Simon, and a nice write up as always. Hopefully we’ll all be able to meet up at a Bluewater meet soon for a catch up 

Thanks for your kind words, Chris. Will be good to catch up with you when at Bluewater, I've really missed going! Hope everything is well with you. I'll try and add some more bits to this thread as I really feel I've rushed through describing things!

That's great to hear, always interested in people's opinions of the swap/ comparison.

Especially where you gone from stock to small turbo too.

Crazy the amount of work that must have gone into the oem design, that must have been like it didn't want to be removed ha.

Best of luck with any future plans.