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Thread: Supra hardtop v160 twin turbo, single turbo conversion and complete car overhaul

  1. #1
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    Supra hardtop v160 twin turbo, single turbo conversion and complete car overhaul

    So, i finally purchased a car which i have been wanting for many years and only now have been able to afford and to house. I was never keen on the interior so decided that i would buy a car which needs quite a bit of work. By doing this it would mean that i know the car inside out by the time ive finished rebuilding it and it would be exactly what i wanted.

    I managed to get myself a 1993 red twin turbo factory manual 6 speed v160 which was fairly unmolested. The only parts fitted were an aftermarket intercooler and a fuel cut defender. Practically everything else was stock. The car has done 130k miles so not exactly low milage.

    The engine

    The plan is to rebuild the engine with new parts to give it a refresh and make it like new again. Parts which are worn will be upgraded. Im trying to do this on a ‘budget’ but parts that need money spending on them will get the money they need. Power wise i want this car to be a great street car with possibly the odd track day. Not the usual 1/4 mile car. Responsiveness is key to my build so i will be keeping the stock intake manifold and using a relatively small turbo. Target peak power is 700hp at flywheel.

    I have a twinscroll borg warner s362 sxe turbo with a mild steel tubular manifold. 800cc denso injectors which mount in the stock fuel rail.

    I have also bought a r3c triple plate clutch. This might seem as overkill for such a small turbo but i would rather be safe than sorry, especially with the hammer it will get on trackdays.

    I will be getting a standalone ecu but havnt fully decided on which one yet.

    The chassis:

    The plan with the chassis is to get it fully acid dipped and starting again from fresh. This way i know i have a good base to start from and it should be perfect when fully protected. This car will not be used in wet weather either. Just a nice summers day.

    I really like the factory look as far as rear bumper, and the stock side skirts (hockey stick sides) but think an aftermarket front bumper may be needed.

    I will update on the more i do and add some pictures of the progress i have done so far.

    The time scale is a year, possibly a year and a half. Any questions on anything just ask!










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  2. #2
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member Style's Avatar
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    Looks like a good base for the extent you plan on going to with the build, good luck!
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    Nice base. Looking forward for all the upgrades and stuff.

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    I'm a newbie Club Member MrGRT's Avatar
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    Nice base find Andy, following

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    I removed the engine and gearbox a couple of months ago ready for overhauling and cleaning.

    The previous owner had done a messy job of filling up the power steering fluid, but to my benefit as it had stopped anthing on that part of the engine bay from rusting

    The car shell itself has been left alone for now as i wanted to concentrate on getting the engine and gearbox in a good place. Knowing what these things can cost to repair, i thought it best to strip them both to check any wear and replace parts as necessary. The car came with little to no service history so i feared the worst. The gearbox also wouldn’t engage 6th gear so i took a gamble getting it.

    Having removed the gearbox from the engine, the clutch seems fairly new as it does not look bedded in yet.






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    Into more detail on the engine for the next part. So i have bought myself an engine stand and started stripping the engine. 25 yeArs of wear with 130k miles and no service history. Whats the worst that could be.

    Ideally i should have done a compression test before hand to see what all the cylinders were producing. But i was too giddy to get it all stripped down and see inside.

    I stripped all the inlet manifold, starter motor, and other small parts off and jet washed the whole block off on the engine stand. This took a small amount of the muck off.

    Then i removed the cam cover and found out how black the inside was with burnt on oil and everything else. I also found the spark plugs to be loose when removing them.

    This is the parts all stripped down ready for cleaning.






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    Do Luck owning Club Member Swampy442's Avatar
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    Ah, you bought this one, good luck with it

    Few points, have you driven a 700hp, rear wheel drive car? People often chuck figures around without actually understanding what it means in terms of driving or understand just what it feels like.
    Second, if you want 700hp you'll certainly need bigger injectors than 800s for a bit of fuel safety, and lastly get a Link. I just got a Link plug in foe my big turbo aerotop

    I have an Excedy twin plate for sale in my parts thread btw
    I would gladly pay you £10 to never log onto this forum again, and I am serious. Scott M

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    Quote Originally Posted by Swampy442 View Post
    Ah, you bought this one, good luck with it

    Few points, have you driven a 700hp, rear wheel drive car? People often chuck figures around without actually understanding what it means in terms of driving or understand just what it feels like.
    Second, if you want 700hp you'll certainly need bigger injectors than 800s for a bit of fuel safety, and lastly get a Link. I just got a Link plug in foe my big turbo aerotop

    I have an Excedy twin plate for sale in my parts thread btw
    Swampy, no i have never driven a 700hp rear wheel drive car. I am not one to go for stupid power and then bin it. One of the lads i know is a tuner who does traction control methods on high power fwd cars to stop wheel spin and gain traction in lower gears. I will also be looking at having the boost mappable by what gear it is in to make it more driver friendly. It wont be getting used in the wet and will be having the best tyres i can afford fitted.

    I will see at the time what the injector size is like for power and keeping the afr at the desired amount. I hear a good few people running these injectors and making good mid 700hp so i will have to wait and see. I havnt bought these denso injectors so they don’t owe me anything. If they do not suffice, i will go to some 1000cc and probably have to go for rear fuel rail setup rather than fuel through.

    I quite like the sound of the haltech ecu with its self adjustable afr which kind of ‘self maps’ to a degree. You just set your afr you desire at certain rpms and it adjusts the fuel to suit. But im still weighing up all the pros and cons of each one.

    Yeah ive got an os giken R3C triple plate ready to go on which should be more than enough for the power i want.


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    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
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    Best of luck with it all.....

    Not getting in 6th could be a easy fix...

    http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthr...t=reverse+gate

    http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthr...t=reverse+gate
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    Do Luck owning Club Member Swampy442's Avatar
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    Things happen pretty quickly, even with less than 600hp, its just something to be aware of mate, not being a knob. Well, no more than normal

    Also 6th gear, check the bushes on the tripod supporting the shifter, the rod from the shifter to the gearbox input (one on my box was worn) and the nylon bush on the lever itself
    I would gladly pay you £10 to never log onto this forum again, and I am serious. Scott M

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Wilson View Post
    I did terrible things to girls I had only just met, and they loved it.

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    Yeah i can imagine it will be a handful. I will probably start with 1 bar boost and get used to it before getting too giddy. I have gone for the setup i believe to give me the most linear curve possible without using a supercharger if that makes sense. I want it to be drivable but also go well when pushed to the redline


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    Engine update:

    So the engine head and block has been cleaned. I cleaned the head using a high pressure cleaning cabinet which uses a cleaning solution and an anti corrosion solution.

    I could not believe how good it came up. Looking basically like new. The only parts it didnt do so well at was the carbon buildup in the exhaust ports themselves. This didnt phase me so much as i have also ported the exhaust slightly. Just removing the casting marks more than anything. (Pics of the porting to follow)

    I also cleaned up every valve on a wire wheel and got them back to basically brand new. Result! I didnt clean the springs up as i have purchased some new BC springs but am keeping the oem retainers. I am not revving much over stock so the small weight saving of titanium vs the high cost of nearly £200 determined the outcome of that one.

    One thing i did notice was that the valve seats on the exhaust looked slightly pitted almost like rust spots. Has anyone witnessed anything similar? Again i dont have close up photos of this.

    I have lapped all the intake and exhaust valves to give them the best possible chance of sealing. Doing this has removed the small surface marks on the exhaust valve seats which is a bonus.

    Valve guides and valves seem all within spec which im very happy about considering the milage on the car.

    Brand new valve stem seals fitted with the new BC uprated valve springs.

    New nice parts that have just turned up on my doorstep are some GSC S1 7030 cams along with some adjustable cam gears off ebay. £35 for the cam gears. I thought at that price its worth giving them a go.








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    Me? Post? Never! Club Member Annabella's Avatar
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    Cool build.

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    So, today

    Head work:

    I test fitted the new gsc s1 cams to the head to check all the valve clearances. Most were within spec with only 2 being out of tolerance by 1 thou. I will get these shims ordered but am yet to fully find somewhere to purchase them from.

    Bottom end:

    I have been in two minds on how to progress with the bottom end. Half of me would expect an engine with little to no service history and 130k miles to be well.. much past its best. So the initial plan was to replace all bearings, main, crank, and install new rods and pistons.

    However, after doing alot of measuring and comparing against what sizes are when they are built. The engine itself seems to have barley worn which has absolutely amazed me.

    Each bore has worn 1 thou which is amazing.

    Each piston is still the same size as they came out the factory having not even worn the machining marks off.

    The ring end gaps are still within factory spec of initial size from fitting. Possibly worn 2-3 thou from day one.

    All of the main big end bearings had very minimal wear but i will replace these as i have removed the conrods off the crank and replacement bearings are only around £80.

    Because i am keeping the oem pistons, rings and rods. I have cleaned them up to remove the carbon and old oil. You can see how much baked on oil there was on the oil seal rings. The block has been cleaned up already so they can be re-fitted when the new big end shells arrive.










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