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Which turbo, mani and WG


D1andonlyantman
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Hi everyone. Over the past couple of months I've pulled my finger out and started putting aside a bit of money for a single conversion on my TT6. Budget is very much a factor as my missus has decided that she can wait no longer to have my offspring (God help me), so I've had to keep that in mind, but money will be spent where needed. I got some flow tested SARD 840cc injectors from a relatively trusted source (not eBay haha), will be doing the fuel damper bypass, and i will be getting a EMU Black standalone at the end of the month. So that should hopefully be the fuel and engine management side sorted. I was thinking of buying a GTX3076r or something in that price range of £1500ish, but im told by some of our American cousins (and seen on whifbitz) that a Borg Warner 257sxe can make the power I'm after (600ish), and at around £700 that would be a nice saving and get me that bit closer. My first question is which housing should i go for on the BW (Divided AR 1.0 has been mentioned), and also which mani should I pair it with? The 6boost T4 twin scroll makes sense I guess, but that's certainly not cheap. I had a Japspeed tubular on my evo 9 for years which is far cheaper, but I get the feeling this would be a case of "you get what you pay for" and it wouldn't perform as well as the 6boost with this turbo, in which case I'll fork out for the 6boost. Also I know very little about external wastegates but was told a 50mm turbosmart would be good?

 

Anyone got any advice or opinions on the turbo setup? Anything you think I've missed.

 

And in genuinely the politest way possible, telling me that going single on a budget is a bad idea is not helpful at all unless it's followed by " but I happen to have 10k you can have". This is the situation I'm in :)

 

Sorry for the essay, and thanks!

Edited by D1andonlyantman (see edit history)
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Personally, Id definitely say management is the key to get the best out of a single turbo set up, spend on the, Link stuff is well spec'd and a good price. Smaler the AR, better it spools so for a street car 0.8 or maybe even less is best to access the power.

Bottom line is you cant go single in the cheap, well, you can but the results are generally less than desirable

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I think I've got my heart set on the EMU black tbh. I've spoken to quite a few people who use it, and it's meant to be really user friendly plus has a built in 4bar map sensor, built in WO2, antilag, rolling antilag, full boost control (with a 3port fitted), SD, I think I'm sold to be honest.

Like I said, I'm not looking to scrimp where I shouldn't. It seems the BW will do what I want reliably. I'll probably get a 6boost mani and unless anyone says otherwise the 50mm turbosmart WG. I've spent days googling and think my fuel system will be fine at this power too. I'll eventually get a big oil cooler etc, but I think I've got a fair game plan for the main bits

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But anti-lag...... ;) haha I joke, I know what you're saying mate. The black can use the OE knock sensors effectively from what I hear, or aftermarket Bosch are easy enough to wire in if need be. Tbh mate I haven't got 2k+ for a syvecs, as great as they're supposed to be. I have spent a lot of time looking into this, and I think the black ticks the boxes for me. In this case I think being cheap would be a piggyback and boost controller, and I think the black is way above that. I need to draw the line somewhere

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You will want an s362 or larger to make 600bhp without having to run crazy boost. 0.88 (open) or 0.91 (divided) AR housing will be fine for this.

 

 

Japspeed manifold are ok to a point but suffer from boost creep with a big enough turbo. Personally I'd go 6boost or Walton manifold, 50mm or larger wasgate. The latest gen turbosmart gates are good, running this combo on mine with no boost creep issues.

 

Emu black is fine too. Just make sure you wire it in correctly and put as many safety sensors as you can.

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Oh ok. I actually did look at the 362 as well a while back as I thought it might be an option. I think I already knew the answer on the manifold tbh. I've heard about boost creep, and it seems like this is very much a "buy cheap, but twice" scenario. I'll probably go with the 6boost, but will look into the Walton, cheers. Never heard of that one. Also nice to hear more positive views on the black. I think it will do just fine.

 

Thanks for the help and opinions so far, gents. It's appreciated

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Has everything you need , if you try to piece to together a kit yourself , oil lines, filter, jublie clips , nuts , studs, an fittings all add up ; and you may have fitment issues

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?352092-New-Whifbitz-Turbo-Kit-Zircotec-Coated-(In-Box-never-fitted-or-test-fitted)

Edited by Jellybean (see edit history)
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Too rich for my blood, mate. If it had a turbo too then maybe we'd be talking.

 

Cheers

 

Honestly , you need to sit down and do out the sums ; adding in all the ancillaries to install a Turbo is not cheap

 

Those Sard injectors are cheap for a reason , appear to be re-drilled OE injectors , poor spray pattern and have been known to leak ; go Siemens or bosch instead but preference is Injector Dynamics , Fuel injector clinic

 

Unless you have 8K budget to have quality parts installed on a closed block , I would not bother ; remember these cars are getting on now , throwing 600hp at a tired engine will cause things to fail , oil pump , water pump , front main seal, rear main seal, crank pulley , valve stem seals , cam seals, Brake calliper piston seals , Calliper pistons, brake lines , fuel pump , valve cover seals, cam belt, belt tensioner, dampener, radiator condition, engine mounts, suspension ....what mileage do they have , factor in new items if worn , prior to throwing power at it

 

Either do it right once with quality parts or you will find yourself in a money pit re-doing work, chasing reliability or worse again , a part failure resulting in catastrophic damage

 

Yes , I know owners have run 700-800 hp on closed blocks reliably but this is becoming a thing of the past , 17 year old car is the newest car you could possible have ; I have seen stock OE caps failing at 600hp on forged blocks with re-used of the original OE caps, I think this will be come more prevalent as the cars age , strapping a single kit to an untouched car will become unrealistic in terms of reliability, engines wear out

 

Unless you have the budget to cover the unknown , I would re-think going single

Edited by Jellybean (see edit history)
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It's got about 70k on the engine unless it's been clocked or something. No way of knowing really. But it feels tight, doesn't use any oil, underside is immaculate. That's all ive got to go on. But I don't plan on using cheap parts. Of course id prefer a full rail but that's another expense in could do without. It is what it is mate. It's been done on a budget before, I'll try to do it again. I'm going standalone, not buying eBay special parts, hopefully it all comes together. I earn a half decent wage, I just can't throw 10k at a build right now

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I've got a borg s362 1.0ar on mine, using a cast log manifold and 45mm turbosmart wastegate. Full boost at 4k rpm, and comes in hard. It also sounds like a jet!

 

Currently at 590 bhp at 1.4bar, but I'm still on stock jspec cams. I've got a set of 264's to fit at some point, and then a map tweak which should bring everything together nicely.

 

 

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Well I'm going to map on the jspec twins first, see how i get on with the SARD injectors. They've been flow tested and bought from a tuning company so I have faith. I'll look into a full rail when I go single. See what the funds allow.

 

Maybe I'm better off with a 362 then. Full boost by 4k is fine, I know power and lag come hand in hand really

Edited by D1andonlyantman (see edit history)
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