Heating issue and coolant loss

Update, the pipes were all clear, took them off and all seemed clear. The radiator needs topping up now, there is coolant still in the expansion bottle... ordered a head gasket sniff tester and I’ll be trying that this weekend to rule out the worst situation and work from that!

What rad cap is fitted to the aftermarket radiator ?

What rad cap is fitted to the aftermarket radiator ?

A standard Toyota one, and I’ve tried 3 now including the original? Think it needs a different one ?

A standard Toyota one, and I’ve tried 3 now including the original? Think it needs a different one ?

 

 

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Brand new ?

Brand new ?

Yeah the second one I bought was an eBay one that was new and the third and the one that is on now is a new Toyota one so I could rule out the cheap cap!

I'd fill the rad and the overflow tank then run the engine up to temp, get the stat to open

and bleed the system so you get hot air out the heater, once you have that pop the cap back on

and see if its any better, not having the rad full is leaving air in the system which isn't correct.

You'll have coolant bubbling up out the rad doing this but thats just air escaping, it can't pressurize

as the caps not fitted

Yeah I’ll be doing that next before I do the head gasket test so it’s all filled up how it should be and bled!

I’ll keep this post updated.

Once topped and left to cool recheck the level, and again the next day. They can trap air a few times until they settle down.

Once topped and left to cool recheck the level, and again the next day. They can trap air a few times until they settle down.

Best way to bleed these are to face them up hill I’m guessing, make the rad cap the highest point on the system?

I have never had to do that, just idle and keep topping, when the `stat opens you may see some boiling, just keep topping and allow to come to full temp with cap off, then put the cap on, run again on a test drive, allow to cool and check levels again. Be sure to check the hose from the cap neck to the expansion bottle and the bottle overflow hose are totally clear of debris, too.

I have never had to do that, just idle and keep topping, when the `stat opens you may see some boiling, just keep topping and allow to come to full temp with cap off, then put the cap on, run again on a test drive, allow to cool and check levels again. Be sure to check the hose from the cap neck to the expansion bottle and the bottle overflow hose are totally clear of debris, too.

Perfect. Cheers I’ll keep that in mind and update with any findings !!

I've never had to do the up hill thing either, as Chris says re check it once its cooled and top up if req

Filled the radiator up, couldn’t seem to get it to bleed as it kept bubbling to the point it was pouring out of the radiator. I was guessing it was the head gasket pushing gasses into the water. Did a head gasket test at home, and after less than a minute the liquid turned yellow from blue like it’s supposed to when the head gasket has gone

What’s the best way of tackling it from now. Get the head off, test if it’s warped, if it isn’t get it skimmed and put a new gasket on.

What else would be good practice to look at now if the head coming off?

Cheers

A further update, stripped the engine now, the head gasket had definitely gone! Piston 2 looked steam cleaned !!!

Head is now at the garage to be skimmed and pressure tested. Apparently the head was on the borderline but is okay to be slimmer, which is a relief! When that’s back we’re tackling the stem seals and rebuilding back up!

Quick question for the gurus, the new head gasket set has arrived. Don’t want to sound like an idiot but which way does it go on the block. One side is slightly raised if that’s any help?

Also can I change the title of this thread because I might change this into a build thread now as well.

Cheers

Ive never done a head gasket, but i think they only go one way. the holes and channels wont fully line up the wrong way around

Ive never done a head gasket, but i think they only go one way. the holes and channels wont fully line up the wrong way around

Ah yeah, me being stupid !! Yeah course they won’t! Cheers

Head face surgically clean and dry, same with block face, blow out all head bolt holes in the block, oil or debris in them means a probably cracked block as they hydraulic as you torque the bolts. As Ric says, it'll only line up properly one way. have fun....

Head face surgically clean and dry, same with block face, blow out all head bolt holes in the block, oil or debris in them means a probably cracked block as they hydraulic as you torque the bolts. As Ric says, it'll only line up properly one way. have fun....

Yeah the block is perfectly clean now and we’re just waiting for the head back! Yeah didn’t think about the head bolt holes, I’ll get the compressor out! Thanks... looking forward to getting her back on the road!

ide also be inclined to put an oem rad back in it also