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Sudden christmas tree lights on the dashboard


djmakz
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Hi guys,

I was slowly driving down the hill the other night and suddenly under no load at all 5 lights came up on the dashboard. They dont seem to make sense to come up all at the same time. These are:

Master Warning Light (fair enough - due to others)

Oil Can Over Oil - Low Oil Level Warning Light - checked oil level and is within the range. I got slightly wet engine, but no patches anywhere. Topped it up just in case, no difference.

Battery Symbol - Discharge Warning Light - battery is only few months old and the car starts no problem.

Pipe With Wavey Heat Lines Above - CAT Temperature Warning Light - comes up as soon as I'll start the car, shouldnt it come up when its hot?

Car With Rear Light On - Rear Light Failure Warning Light - havent had a chance to check all lights (I'll do that in the evening), but I dont think there is an actual issue.

m pretty sure when it came up originally there was also low oil pressure light on, but its gone now.

 

As a summary - lots of lights but the car starts and sounds normally. I have checked main fuse box and all was good. The main 120A was a bit green, so Ive cleaned it, but it certainly didnt look like an issue and the lights are still on.

I am out of ideas. Havent had any of this type of issues and now all these lights came up, this just doesnt make sense and doesnt look or feel like an actual issue to me (especially that they all came up in a same moment), more like electrical fault, but no idea where to look for the answer. I will check internal fuse box next, but I wouldnt imagine cat or oil pressure is anything to do with internal fuses?

Thanks!

Max

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I didnt, I just assumed that if I can start a car no problem, then the battery should be ok

 

If it's a new battery then it will hold good charge and the alternator might not be completely dead and returning some charge to the battery. But it definitely sounds like the alternator to me, I would check with a multimeter to see what charge it's putting out on tickover or check the battery voltage with multimeter on tickover to. Battery should be 14 volts if it's less then assume you alternator is knackered.

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Well well well, I have tested with the engine off and the voltage was 12.3v and with engine on... 11.7v with revving making no difference. I was worried sick over last two days and you all have helped within hours! I'll search for a thread on how to safely take it out.

Thank you all!

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Well well well, I have tested with the engine off and the voltage was 12.3v and with engine on... 11.7v with revving making no difference. I was worried sick over last two days and you all have helped within hours! I'll search for a thread on how to safely take it out.

Thank you all!

 

1. Disconnect Battery

2. Remove 12mm nut holding main live wire to that alternator, then remove wire

3. Remove the connector on the alternator

4. Take 14mm socket on breaker bar, and push down on drive belt tensioner to relieve tension and remove belt

5. Remove the 14mm bolt and nut holding the alternator, and you should be able to slide alternator out on the stud that it sits on

6. Install new alternator and do the reverse of the above

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Thanks Mike2JZ.

Last question - since I need to replace it Ive got a choice either to recondition or swap out. If swapping out I may as well upgrade. My car is N/A at the moment, but I dont like to spend money twice. If I'd like to add some extra toys to the engine in the future (no cash atm), is it worth upgrading to something like this one?

160A alternator

I only assume turbo and non turbo are fully compatible or the same? If I'd go N/A-T in the future will the standard do or better go for more amperage?

Edited by djmakz (see edit history)
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Thanks Mike2JZ.

Last question - since I need to replace it Ive got a choice either to recondition or swap out. If swapping out I may as well upgrade. My car is N/A at the moment, but I dont like to spend money twice. If I'd like to add some extra toys to the engine in the future (no cash atm), is it worth upgrading to something like this one?

160A alternator

I only assume turbo and non turbo are fully compatible or the same? If I'd go N/A-T in the future will the standard do or better go for more amperage?

 

Unless you are planning on running a lot more on-board electronics (gauges, big ICE system etc) then you shouldn't really need to bother with a higher amp alternator. That said, if you do go to a higher amp alt, then it won't hurt anything.

 

Think I'm running a 100amp alternator supplied by TCBParts for £120 with 1 year warranty. So far haven't had any issues with my single build, standalone ecu, and mild audio system.

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