Page 1 of 7 12345 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 95

Thread: Under body cleaning

  1. #1
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    England - Surrey
    Posts
    9,378
    Feedback
    44 (100%)

    Under body cleaning

    I'm looking for advice from anyone who has cleaned the underbody in preparation for underseal type treatments or simply to get everything clean.

    I have armed myself with a selection of nylon (I'm scared of using wire brushes - should I be?) brushes, APC, degreasers and a brush that attaches to a hose for rinsing (Got safety glasses gloves etc)

    My plan is to concentrate on the rear first, remove the fuel tank cover (done this before) and the plastic exhaust cover and probably the exhaust itself, maybe even the diff. Remove the exhaust heat shield pieces as I want to experiment on these with POR15 paint (if ok will probably POR the diff too).

    My plan is to have a good clean and inspect, I know the car isn't bad for corrosion but I'm looking to tidy and treat if needed before the Dinitrol/underseal application in the interest of long haul protection.

    Depending on the POR15 results on the heat shields I may do the sill seams and possibly some other areas, this is where I'm not sure how to play it as such, from what I've read POR15 isn't easy (understatement!) to remove so I'm erring on the side of caution in it's application, and concentrating on using the dinitrol stuff mainly.

    Any advice appreciated, I'll not be rushing it but equally am up for time saving measures if possible.
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  2. #2
    SRD Project Auto Club Member Chris Bailey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    England - Essex
    Posts
    8,181
    Feedback
    1 (100%)
    Lee at SRD uses a guy called Chris, who's company is called CC Automotive. We've just had a full underseal and rust treatment done on the supra, also both sills straightened. He's done a great job and keeps you updated with pics and information. Total cost was 400, although price varies on what you have done. But fully recommended him if you didn't want to undertake the work yourself

    - - - Updated - - -

    Lee at SRD uses a guy called Chris, who's company is called CC Automotive. We've just had a full underseal and rust treatment done on the supra, also both sills straightened. He's done a great job and keeps you updated with pics and information. Total cost was 400, although price varies on what you have done. But fully recommended him if you didn't want to undertake the work yourself
    Life is like a camera...
    Focus on what's important,
    Capture the good times,
    Develop from the negatives,
    And if things dont work out,
    Take another shot.

  3. #3
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    England - Surrey
    Posts
    9,378
    Feedback
    44 (100%)
    I'll probably regret not doing that, but I was thinking of DIY'ing just from the perspective of no one will take as much care.......but I may make more mistakes! Also I can inspect everything and may perhaps have to tackle some jobs along the way that are better done prior to any underseal application? I'm pretty sure my imports have just the factory applied underseal, one (the one I'm going to start this work on) I think has some extra sprayed on, possibly by JMimports, as the brake lines have some black coating over the grey plastic/paint, but it's not extensive as body/chassis is free from it.

    Always good to know about companies like this though so thanks in may come in handy if I give up half way through!!
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  4. #4
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    England - Surrey
    Posts
    9,378
    Feedback
    44 (100%)
    Just been googling Chris and lots of glowing reports from those with motors really susceptible to rust!

    http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467-270.html

    I may well stop at doing a really good clean up and get the guy to do the messy stuff as he'll have all the tools to get into the nooks and crannies to ensure a proper job of applying protection.
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  5. #5
    What search button? Club Member foggy147's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    England - Greater Manchester
    Posts
    1,986
    Feedback
    5 (100%)
    Honestly POR15 stuff is fantastic stuff you will not go far wrong with it. Don't worry about using a wire brush, it will just allow you to get rid of any of the flaking rust. I would do that stage first before then going over with degreaser (I would use the POR15 marine degreaser). This then allows a good clean surface for painting/underseal

  6. #6
    SRD Project Auto Club Member Chris Bailey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    England - Essex
    Posts
    8,181
    Feedback
    1 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Scooter View Post
    Just been googling Chris and lots of glowing reports from those with motors really susceptible to rust!

    http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467-270.html

    I may well stop at doing a really good clean up and get the guy to do the messy stuff as he'll have all the tools to get into the nooks and crannies to ensure a proper job of applying protection.
    Yeah he works from home with a ramp, he doesn't advertise his work it's all from word of mouth and he tries to keep work down to a minimum. Roughly 1-2 cars per week.

    Really can't fault his work! He tells you all the products he uses etc.
    Life is like a camera...
    Focus on what's important,
    Capture the good times,
    Develop from the negatives,
    And if things dont work out,
    Take another shot.

  7. #7
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    England - Surrey
    Posts
    9,378
    Feedback
    44 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by foggy147 View Post
    Honestly POR15 stuff is fantastic stuff you will not go far wrong with it. Don't worry about using a wire brush, it will just allow you to get rid of any of the flaking rust. I would do that stage first before then going over with degreaser (I would use the POR15 marine degreaser). This then allows a good clean surface for painting/underseal
    Cheers, as you know it's your pics that are inspiring me! I have the POR metal prep just not their specific degreaser as I have other degreasers and am hoping this is ok, hence the exhaust shield testing (I may test on a few suspension arms I have in the spares bin too)
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  8. #8
    What search button? Club Member foggy147's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    England - Greater Manchester
    Posts
    1,986
    Feedback
    5 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Scooter View Post
    Cheers, as you know it's your pics that are inspiring me! I have the POR metal prep just not their specific degreaser as I have other degreasers and am hoping this is ok, hence the exhaust shield testing (I may test on a few suspension arms I have in the spares bin too)
    It's good to know I've been able to inspire someone, there's a first for everything lol!

    It's definately worth it, gives you peace of mind and looks good when you look underneath!

  9. #9
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member Marty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Wales - Clwyd
    Posts
    2,748
    Feedback
    21 (100%)
    I did mine earlier this year using POR15, its seriously good I wire brushed, degreased, metal prepped then POR15, took me about a day in total so not too bad. Still looks like new underneath 6months on.
    Word of caution though, don't get it on your skin!

  10. #10
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    England - Surrey
    Posts
    9,378
    Feedback
    44 (100%)
    Thanks read about that but it seems everyone still does get a bit here and there on them!

    Did you do everything? floor pan, sills, subframe etc

    I've got a 6 pack of small cans as I read it doesn't always keep well once opened got x2 silver x2 semi matt black and x2 clear, thinking i'll do the subframe and arms in black and the body in silver or clear (car is silver).

    Did you put on any finish the POR15 is meant to cloud up when exposed to UV (I know it won't get much underneath!) how is yours and what colour didi you put on?

    cheers
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  11. #11
    Posting is my life! Club Member Sheefa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    England - West Midlands
    Posts
    9,235
    Feedback
    26 (100%)
    I spent countless hours (must if been 50+) cleaning the entire rear and front arches of mine right back using dremel, wire wool drill pads, APC cleaner, engine degreaser etc. I wish I had never started.

    The best outcome was on the exhaust heatshields and fuel tank where I stripped right back to bare metal, used Zinc182 to prepare and prime metal and then coated in Halfords Carbon 800degree Manifold paint and it looks great and has lasted very well so far. I also highly recommend ACF-50 for keeping everything rust free after treating.

    However, I'll be damned if I can be bothered to do anymore on axle stands etc so I'm booked into JR Classics in Doncaster on 22nd September for the full works clean, strip and underseal (cost 610) and then when back going to have all my rear suspension fitted (New and POR15 coated) by Littlenum.

    If you're doing this on axle stands be prepared to put some serious hours in mate to do it properly.

    Definitely use POR15 though, it's a cracking product.

    Greg

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    Greg

    UK Spec Manual - Big Single Turbo 800bhp

    Carefully maintained by Lee P and the Team @ SRD
    http://www.supraracingdevelopments.co.uk

  12. #12
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    England - Surrey
    Posts
    9,378
    Feedback
    44 (100%)
    Well i'm keen (as probably you were when you started!) and love to diy (hate to spend out on labour! ) so I think i'll take my time and try and do it in stages and to hell with how long it takes.

    I can't that I can do any harm, I just think (as most seem to back up) it'll turn into one thing after the other, i'm not desperately anal on appearance but won't just slap things on for the sake of it and to hurry it.

    I will try and document things and take pics, got a bunch of brushes from amazon coming so I think this weekend I might try and remove the bulky things to allow me to make my initial assessment and test a few of the products. I've got some dinitrol that's been delayed (it's the more fluid cavity wax stuff) which is annoying, might cancel and reorder elsewhere, but also not sure how necessary it is (it's Dinitrol 3125) are there many cavities that need protection?
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  13. #13
    Office Monkey Club Member Iky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    England - West Yorkshire
    Posts
    1,911
    Feedback
    32 (100%)
    POR15 is great, only downside to it is that it will not stick very well to fresh metal. I've had it peel off cleanly off new zinc plated steel.
    Dries quite solid as it cures with moisture. stays on skin for atleast a week.
    STOCK BODY 1996 GUNMETAL FACELIFT TT AUTO BPU

  14. #14
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    England - Surrey
    Posts
    9,378
    Feedback
    44 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Iky View Post
    POR15 is great, only downside to it is that it will not stick very well to fresh metal. I've had it peel off cleanly off new zinc plated steel.
    Dries quite solid as it cures with moisture. stays on skin for atleast a week.
    Just a question did you use their specific "metal prep" prior to applying the POR paint/coating?
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  15. #15
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member mwilkinson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    England - Hampshire
    Posts
    4,154
    Feedback
    58 (100%)
    Scott, I'd go for the chap that Jazz and SRD use, as per this thread.

    400 approx for this job is peanuts compared to the missery this might be for you on your own on a drive, wedged under a car a few feet of the floor.
    1996 Facelift J-Spec 6spd Single Turbo (600bhp) - Gunmetal
    Sold - 1995 Jspec 6 Speed Manual BPU (Lambo Grigio Avlon)

Page 1 of 7 12345 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •