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Rob W's Supra - Project Thread * Pic Heavy *


Rob W
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Can you tell me how you straightened out the jack stand pinch welds? Your first picture Rob.

 

Painstakingly slow, bending them straight using different sizes off adjustable spanners.

 

You can never reverse the damage of bent jacking points, just make me most of what you can. Had it all rust treated etc and no surface rust has re-appeared back as of yet.

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  • 4 months later...

Had the MOT done few weeks ago, all fine except slight play in the rear O/S wheel bearing.

 

Made a call to TCB and a couple weeks later my bits arrived. Great service again from TCB, and half the time they quoted.

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New OEM suspension bolts, nuts and washers.

New OEM rear hub flanges.

New OEM rear hub bushes.

New OEM wheel bearing dust deflectors.

New Pattern part rear wheel bearings.

 

I went with the pattern part wheel bearings, but thinking about it now maybe I should of gone OEM!

 

Edited by Rob W (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Slightly off topic...

 

Collected the UK car back from the bodyshop I always use and trust this morning.

 

Done a great job, really happy how it came out.

 

I noticed slight painted bubbling on the bottom of the front wings which was due to dirt/crud trapped under by the front hockey sticks, also the rear hatch had rust starting in the common bottom corner.

 

Luckily enough when the front wings were removed, chassis underneath only had slight surface rust what was taken back, treated and painted.

 

Parts painted:-

 

Front bumper.

Front wings.

Bonnet.

Rear hatch.

Full cut and polish.

 

He stated he didn’t need to go mad with the mop as the paintwork was in really good condition anyway.

 

Got a set of OEM facelift front indicators to put on as the current have gone milky and look awful.

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Edited by Rob W (see edit history)
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  • 4 months later...

Unfortunately due to my new house purchase I haven’t had any time to use the car as I’ve been cracking on. Still have a load of new OEM parts to fit just getting round to it is another thing!

 

One plus tho, I’ve finally got my garage that I have wanted for years. Built last week and I gave it a paint over the weekend, still need to do power, lighting, doors and flooring then it can finally be sitting away from the wind and rain :)

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I had to take pictures for my insurance agreed value, so gave it a clean and took it out for a run.....put a smile on my face driving it again :cool:

 

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Edited by Rob W (see edit history)
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Lovely work on this mate, thanks to you I also got a similar reversing camera which looks a million times better than the square job on a bracket I had before. :thumbs:

 

Hopefully get to show you and thank you in person at a future Bluewater meet after this virus has finally gone away. :rolleyes:

 

Keep up the great work fella. :thumbs:

 

Cheers,

 

Pete

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  • 2 months later...
Lovely work on this mate, thanks to you I also got a similar reversing camera which looks a million times better than the square job on a bracket I had before. :thumbs:

 

Hopefully get to show you and thank you in person at a future Bluewater meet after this virus has finally gone away. :rolleyes:

 

Keep up the great work fella. :thumbs:

 

Cheers,

 

Pete

 

Thanks buddy, I’m glad it helped you out :thumbs: I do need to get over to the bluewater meet, been a very long time since the last!

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Its been awhile! Well the house is all done and half way through the garden but due to the weather I thought its about time I put some effort on the car.

It has just sat in the garage for the past 19 months unfortunately with only be started up and run for abit every couple of months. 

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As previously stated, I purchased new rear subframe bushes, wheel bearings, seals etc so the first thing to do was get the car up in the air and drop the rear subframe.

 

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Started off with removing the boot plastics around the rear top suspension top mounts to access the rear ABS sensor clips. You can get to these just about, I have the GZ rear speaker boxes so the space is abit tighter. You can see the sensor disconnected below. You can then from above push the rubber grommet out which houses the ABS sensor cable.

 

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Whilst in the boot area, I also removed the rear suspension top mount covers to remove the 3 x suspension top mount bolts. You don't require to remove the rear suspension dampers for the removal of the subframe but i want to clean everything up so I did.

Under the car, exhaust off to clear so room bit awkward on your own but doing it in the 2 exhaust sections was doable. Its the exhaust hanger rubbers that are tough with trying to hold the exhaust up so it doesn't touch the bumper whilst trying to lever the rubber off the mount!

I then removed the brake callipers, bottom suspension damper lower bolts, tunnel brace and 2 x handbrake cables to the hubs.

Whilst under the car, I also removed the 6 x propshaft doughnut bolts, loosened all suspension arm bolts/nuts and the 12 x diff driveshaft bolts.

 

 

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I then moved on the wheel hubs, removed the brake discs, handbrake shoes and associating springs plus the handbrake cable 2 x bolts.

Snapped a couple of bolts for the handbrake cable to hub, but I will be replacing these so I wasn't too upset.

Using a 32mm impact socket with my Makita impact wrench I removed the hub split pin/collar and loosed off the main wheel hub nut.

 

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After I had done both sides, checked everything I wanted to remove or loosen was done and getting the front end of the car up in the air, I had enough for the day! 😃

 

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After I had done both sides, checked everything I wanted to removed or loosen was done and getting the front end of the car up in the air I had enough for the day! 😃

 

 

Edited by Rob W (see edit history)
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I had a couple of hours spare the next day so my task was to get the rear subframe dropped and arms stripped off.

There is 2 x main subframe bolts at the front to remove plus 8 x smaller bolts at the rear (4 x each side).

Supporting the rear subframe off the diff using the trolley jack, by slowly dropping the subframe you can surprising remove quite easily.

I did it in stages dropping it down a bit, then pulling the trolley jack forward, then dropping it down further due the the diff spine is within the propshaft.

 

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When out I removed all the suspension arms and hubs, as I replaced all the suspension arms with new OEM a few years ago and copper slipped everything up back then it all come apart easily. Managed to use a ball joint splitter from amazon/ebay which was large enough to get round the ball joints without damaging them whilst pressing them out due to the ball joints taper.

I knew the O/S/R wheel bearing was worn, by removing it was pretty clear it had water ingress which was most probably the cause.

 

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I managed to removed the N/S/R ABS sensor from the hub but unfortunately the O/S/R ABS sensor was not having it, solid and would not budge not matter how much soaking in penetration fluid. Knowing full well what would happen, I still did try giving it some heat but this just removed the backing from the metal sensor within. 

As they are discontinued I will have to get the non-OEM sensors I have seen being sold.  

Whist I had to torch out, I heated up the 2 x bolts for the brake shields and removed with success!

Stripped the arms off the subframe, just need to remove the diff then start removing the subframe bushes which will be easy I'm sure 🤣

 

IMG_1095.thumb.jpg.2b1abd38bdbcc27448ea4986a873b338.jpg 

 

Took a few photos of the underside, brake and petrol lines looked ok with some slight surface rust above the rear subframe. Going to concentrate on the rear subframe first as when it goes off to be cleaned etc I can then look at the underside.

 

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Edited by Rob W (see edit history)
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Manged to spare a couple of hours in the garage tonight, managed to remove the diff plus all 4 bushes from the rear subframe.

Removing the diff pretty simple task, 2 x bolts (19mm IIRC) diff ear mounts and 3 x Hex bolts diff to subframe bushes (12mm). Once removed I was surprised of the weight of a bare subframe as I expected more.

I then went on to remove the diff subframe bushes by starting out drilling the rubber within to remove the centre metal block to give access for making a relief in the bush metal outer sleeve.

 

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The diff subframe bush with 1 x fixing mount does have fluid within, so for anyone you might be doing this on their own subframe bear this in mind as it comes out with force!

 

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After removing the rubber, using a hacksaw blade I made a cut in the metal outer sleeve so I had a starting point. Using heat and penetration fluid I slowly tapped both bushes out, took my time with these as I didn't want to mark the subframe. 

Once out, I moved onto the last 2 which require being levered out from the top. There are 2 x metal retaining brackets that you need to remove first, then again applying heat using a small chisel you can lever these out fairly easily until you have the room to tap out from the top.  

 

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That was that, one subframe stripped ready to be refurbished barring the 2 x plastic cap things which I'll look in better detail when I'm out in the garage next time. Still unsure which way to go with it, thinking about having it galvanised but unsure. Something I want to get arranged soon to keep the motivation up! 

 

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Next on the list is splitting the rear wheel hubs and removing the brake shields so they can be sent off to be blasted, see how this weekend goes 🙂

 

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Due to me obliterating an ABS sensor and only one being still available which I believed none were (Thanks Matt - MWilkinson), I started looking at different Toyota models of sensors. 

Came across one for £25 delivered and thought it was worth a punt, sensor arrived today which seems to tick the boxes.

My current rear ABS sensor reads around 0.9 Ohms which comparing to the new reads around 1.1 Ohms. Reading the ABS thread that Rider started, Toyota spec is 0.7-1.7 Ohms so I would presume all is good.

IMG_1134.thumb.jpg.9d369d8fad5308e8a9024b291b5833e6.jpgOH

 

Sensor does fit within hub and is the same tightness as OEM, cable connector looks identical and is around 50-60mm longer in cable length.

As picture below, I didn't fit the sensor in all the way as I didn't want to struggle getting it out again without damaging. As they are the same diameter and length as OEM I don't see any fitment issues occurring.

I'm going to buy the O/S/R ABS sensor which I have found for £32ish and try these out, worst way they don't work or promote fault codes they are fairly easy to replace at a later stage.

 

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Once I know these do fit, work correctly and without any fault codes I will update Riders thread with the sensor details. 

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