Heip with changing rear shocks

How on earth do you force the hub down and push the bottom bolt in on your own. any advice greatly appreciated, or do you have to be an octopus.

Big bar between subframe and ARB. And I am not an octopus, it's quite easy. When you've done dozens....

haha, cheers chris, ive tried with a bar, unfortunately i havent done dozens haha, this is my first. i think your more of a magician, so dont need to be an octopus.

Spring compressors. Compress the spring, push the damper up

If you unbolt the ARB it makes life much easier!! If the bolts on the ARB isn't seized that is!

One inch diameter round steel bar about 5 feet long ("The small bar") I have "The BIG bar" for serious stuff

thanks for all the advice/tips gents.i have just changed the damper and reused the stock spring.I have unbolted the drop link, and the strut is fastened down with the 3 top bolts.i just cant figure out for the life of me how to lower the hub, line the strut up and push the bolt through with one pair of hands.

I put my foot on the hub and force it down whilst putting shock in/taking out.

Leave the top mount nuts off until you get the lower bolt through. I am fortunate to do this on a ramp, but I have done a few on the ground. You should have left the drop link in place, the ARB is a perfect place to put the bar with one end under the subframe and lever down with your knee. It needs the link there to transfer the force to the lower arm. You need both rear wheels off the ground with the ARB connected though

Ah so your knee is your third hand. I thought removing the drop link was supposed to help. shows you cant buy experience.Both wheels are off the floor, so will reconnect the drop link tomorrow and try again. Cheers gents for all your advice, much appreciated.

Finally got these changed, thanks for all the advice, especially chris' about keeping the arb connected and using it as a lever, worked a treat.I did put the strut bolts in from the wrong side,just wondering if it makes any difference.

No difference at all, so longer as the barstewards are in and tight!! If you think the rears are awkward, wait until you try the fronts without releasing an upper or lower arm

ah thats good, did them up to torque so hopefully tight enough. cheers again chris. Was just goiong to ask if its the same process for the fronts regarding the arb,had built a bit of confidence to attempt the fronts. now thats shattered.

I would suggest you take the inner pin right out for the top wishbones and be VERY careful to not put ANY strain on the ABS sensor wire. I do not advise trying to remove the sensors from the uprights, they are probably seized in, instead, if you wish to avoid the risk of strain, disconnect them at their plugs and sockets just behind the arch liners. You can often get lowered coil overs in and out without taking the inner wishbone pivots out, but stock are a real pain,

Sounds like loads of fun;).Read about taking the top pin out.and will do as you say with the abs wires.Bit late for lowewred coilovers now, ive put the bilsteins on the rear, after reading your posts recommending them:innocent:

Can anybody please tell me how to move the water reservoir out of the way, to remove the top wishbone bolt.Took the two bolts out(well they've snapped actually) but still cant move it to get the bolt out.Any advice much appreciated.

Aren't there three bolts?

According to the repair manual there is only 2.Ive managed to get the bolt out now, but god knows how i will get the snapped bolts out.

Sorted the shock out.But how do you reattach the arch lining, cant see anywhere for the screws to go.