My BPU TT6 Dyno run - Round 4 on Page 4

Those figures still look incredibly low to me bud. Of course, what matters is the bum dyno..... but I'm still confused with what you are seeing. I take it the figures are at the wheels? If so it's not THAT low and it may be down to the 95 ron fuel. The torque seems low on the dyno though.

Scott,

The figures are at the wheels. I am not looking at the torque figures though, with a 4th gear run.

Car feels ALOT faster then it was before.

I will try another dyno to compare.

Those figures still look incredibly low to me bud. Of course, what matters is the bum dyno..... but I'm still confused with what you are seeing. I take it the figures are at the wheels? If so it's not THAT low and it may be down to the 95 ron fuel. The torque seems low on the dyno though.

if that seems low for you for BPU supra, look at y dyno thread: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?324526-320-WHP-single-6-speed-on-0-9-bar

it's 320 WHP on 0.9 bar with a friggin' single turbo :|

if that seems low for you for BPU supra, look at y dyno thread: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?324526-320-WHP-single-6-speed-on-0-9-bar

 

it's 320 WHP on 0.9 bar with a friggin' single turbo :|

With the right setup that will make a lot more power though. It's been built as a bit of a bodge, once you have the right gear on there you'll be flying.

Scott,

 

The figures are at the wheels. I am not looking at the torque figures though, with a 4th gear run.

 

Car feels ALOT faster then it was before.

 

I will try another dyno to compare.

Can you get some 98+ Ron? What about some octane booster? It would be good to get a comparison on the same dyno with more appropriate fuel. The ECU will really not like 95, over here our cars run like a bag of spanners on it.

Can you get some 98+ Ron? What about some octane booster? It would be good to get a comparison on the same dyno with more appropriate fuel. The ECU will really not like 95, over here our cars run like a bag of spanners on it.

agree on the octane level. AFAIK the car is optimized for 98 RON, running it on 95 is not ok power wise and potentially dangerous even...

With the right setup that will make a lot more power though. It's been built as a bit of a bodge, once you have the right gear on there you'll be flying.

thanks for this. I do plan to eventually get an ecu and bigger injectors to make use of the single turbo potential. not really keen on experimenting with the AIC setup too much - if anything bad happens, I won't be able to forgive myself for that...

Can you get some 98+ Ron? What about some octane booster? It would be good to get a comparison on the same dyno with more appropriate fuel. The ECU will really not like 95, over here our cars run like a bag of spanners on it.

I can get 98 RON, it is sold as race fuel by BP.. NF is a popular, I did try it and the car felt better (that was when car was in TTC as well with damaged VSV's)

Wil give that a shot.

Thanks for all the help.

agree on the octane level. AFAIK the car is optimized for 98 RON, running it on 95 is not ok power wise and potentially dangerous even...

 

 

 

 

 

thanks for this. I do plan to eventually get an ecu and bigger injectors to make use of the single turbo potential. not really keen on experimenting with the AIC setup too much - if anything bad happens, I won't be able to forgive myself for that...

I have water injection to try to compensate for the poor fuel, there doesnt seem to be any detonation, have never seen the MIL light up on a full boost run..

I do plan on mapping the car soon, with 95 as a base and with ethanol as well.

The JSpec Supras are set for 100 ron. 99 is the best available to us in general

The JSpec Supras are set for 100 ron. 99 is the best available to us in general

100 ron from the factory? damn, that's really restrictive :/ there's only one station in my country (luckily, in the city I am in) that has 100 ron petrol... would it show some tangible increase in horsepower if I switched to that from 98 ron?

100 ron from the factory? damn, that's really restrictive :/ there's only one station in my country (luckily, in the city I am in) that has 100 ron petrol... would it show some tangible increase in horsepower if I switched to that from 98 ron?

I would think so. The jump from 95 to 99 is fairly large and I guess every little helps. Trouble is it would take around half a tank for the ECU to notice the difference and make the changes.

Scott,

The stock ECU should pull back timing if fed with 95 fuel making it safe to drive the car on this fuel?

I have been running for 2 years and 12000kms on this fuel and water spray.

All my friends with Supras have been running longer on the same setup..

Scott,

 

The stock ECU should pull back timing if fed with 95 fuel making it safe to drive the car on this fuel?

 

I have been running for 2 years and 12000kms on this fuel and water spray.

 

All my friends with Supras have been running longer on the same setup..

Yup that's right. The timing gets pulled as the ECU adjusts. After which it should run reasonable, but it's never recommended. When guys in the UK have done it through emergency, it misfires and splutters quite badly as the ECU adjusts.

MAJOR power sap though.

Yup that's right. The timing gets pulled as the ECU adjusts. After which it should run reasonable, but it's never recommended. When guys in the UK have done it through emergency, it misfires and splutters quite badly as the ECU adjusts.

 

MAJOR power sap though.

I have never experienced that ever, just filled the tank with 95 and she ran perfect..

Same as it ran in Japan. Same as all the other guys with Supras here.

Will try with 98 RON and see if it makes a difference..

Ok, as Scott suggested, found some 98 Octane fuel, and redid the dyno run..

The figures in green show the power gain. ( as mentioned before, this is wheel power)

Conditions were similar, max boost was at 1.16bar.

The car is feeling a whole lot faster with this fuel...

With running this fuel, I noticed the AFR leaned out to 9.8:1. With 95 fuel I used to see 8.5:1. My theory is the stock ECU was compensating for the crappy octance by adding fuel..

Note, the 8,5:1 AFR was the same as I used to see in Japan with Hi Octane, I think Japan fuel is no longer 100 octane at the pumps..

This run was done with water spray on, with it off, car made same power but 1.8nm less, so the octane is doing its job

Comments?

Much more healthy. 335whp is much more like what I would expect to see. That's approx 400hp at the fly (just under) which is much more normal. Torque is right up there too, over 400lbs.

BTW, the ECU is still running super rich. I wouldn't expect lower than 10 but that may be down to the fuel or the ECU needing more time to adjust.

Basically, you would get even more power if you stuck with the 98 (or higher) for a while.

Much more healthy. 335whp is much more like what I would expect to see. That's approx 400hp at the fly (just under) which is much more normal. Torque is right up there too, over 400lbs.

BTW, the ECU is still running super rich. I wouldn't expect lower than 10 but that may be down to the fuel or the ECU needing more time to adjust.

 

Basically, you would get even more power if you stuck with the 98 (or higher) for a while.

Thanks for all the advice Scott..

The road performance has shown a marked improvement, best its ever been..

The issue with the 98 octane here is its only sold in 20L barrels and the price is double that of pump fuel..

The only way forward to run the car permanently on higher octane is octane booster or ethanol..

I am leaning the ethanol route as it would set the car up for future mods..

Ethanol is cheaper than pump fuel as well, most octane boosters are dodgy as well.

Thanks again for the help.

Can't go wrong with ethanol, would it not need an ECU and flexi fuel setup though? Very expensive. Another option would be to get an aftermarket ECU and get it properly mapped for 95 ron, that would help a lot although you would never make the maximum power.... it would just run well.

Can't go wrong with ethanol, would it not need an ECU and flexi fuel setup though? Very expensive. Another option would be to get an aftermarket ECU and get it properly mapped for 95 ron, that would help a lot although you would never make the maximum power.... it would just run well.

The tuner I am talking to is a Haltech agent, he recommends the new Elite with Flex fuel setup. It is expensive, but will be utilised if I ever go single turbo..

He did give me the option of fitting a piggyback to tune the car with 95, but now that I know how the car should run, I want to try to keep it at that level.

Will work out the costing and take it from there...

Thanks.

You're definitely on the right lines with your plans anyway. It'll be a great setup for BPU if you go down that route, although there's no way you could really call that basic

You're definitely on the right lines with your plans anyway. It'll be a great setup for BPU if you go down that route, although there's no way you could really call that basic

I'm happy that I finally got the car running right after all these years.

Now I can move forward..

Thanks.

Ok, round 4...

Same setup as before, except installed the Mines ECU that I had.

Similar weather conditions..

98 octane in the tank.. Boost 1.2bar

Some improvement in power, but the AFR is still rich, in the 9.0s...

Noticed the that water spray didn't help the power with this ECU, might need to pull the flow back abit..

This is the last step for me before mapping the car, I think its a solid base..

is that at the wheels or fly?

is that at the wheels or fly?

At the wheels mate..

So 258kW at the wheels? It's 350whp.

How are you going to map it? Stock ECU isnt mappable wihtout piggyback systems. Only way is a standalone.