NA-T Build The Flying Dutchman

After driving around NA for 3 years and having been on 2 Dragonball tours it is now finally time for the Supra to be rebuild properly with some more power and a better suspension setup. For the base engine I've bought the NA-T engine that was owned and built by Al Massey. It had some pretty sweet parts on it and the bottom end was already rebuilt with TT pistons. It was fitted with a custom exhaust manifold and a Greddy replica turbo.

I decided to sell that turbo setup and bought a Holset HX40W watercooled turbo instead. It still needs some more polishing but it came up quite nice already. The exhaust manifold is going to be a custom log-style instead of the tubular one.

The full specs are as follows:

- ARP headstuds and bottom end bolts

- Rebuild GE head with BC springs and retainers

- Holset HX40W Billet Wheel and Turbosmart Wastegate

- TT Pistons

- ACL bearings

- Full Toyota Engine Gasket Set

- XS Power FFIM with Q45 TB

- RX-7 550cc injectors

- Aeromotive FPR and Fuel pump

- HKS Pulleys and Timing Belt

- SRD Belt Tensioner Bracket

- Whifbitz Pulley set

- TRD engine mounts

- Greddy Emanage Ultimate

- NGK R spark plugs and leads

- All pumps refurbished or new

Pulling the NA lump and gearbox from the car was fairly easy as quite a few members from the Dutch Supra OC came to help me out.

Now that the engine was safely in the garage I've started removing the subframes and replacing everything that has worn down, bushes, control arms, brakes etc. The engine bay will be resprayed and cleaned where possible. I will also be swapping the dash to one that's in a better condition and might swap the heater matrix while I'm at it.

With this setup I'm hoping to achieve around 500bhp. My W58 probably isn't going to enjoy that kind of abuse so I'm swapping that out for a CD009 6 Speed gearbox from a Fairlady Z33. It will need some custom parts to fit nicely into the car but should still be way cheaper than a Getrag.

Wow nice car!

Thanks Jacky, it's absolutely no prize winner up close but I do my best to keep it tidy. I prefer working on the mechanical parts rather than polishing it all day long .

Wow nice car!

The rear subframe is almost ready for sandblasting and powdercoating, took a bit longer than expected because one of the driveshafts refused to leave the hub it had been living in for the past 21 years. I just need to borrow a blowtorch to get the last of the bushes out and then I can continue with the front.

I've also been busy with soldering the adapter loom for the Emanage:

And designing my exhaust manifold:

I'm going for a similar design as the Treadstone manifolds but without the external wastegate. I need to maximize spool for a nice street setup and enough room to fit the wastegate actuator for the quick spool valve.

Are you sure that w58 can't hold that 500bhp? Some american cousins runs about 450whp with that transmission without blowing it. Nice project anyway

Are you sure that w58 can't hold that 500bhp? Some american cousins runs about 450whp with that transmission without blowing it. Nice project anyway

I killed one at BPU (circa 400bhp), others have killed them at the same power.

Besides, torque kills gear boxes.

I spent more time building the car then updating this thread but here is a bit of an update for you guys. I decided to postpone the NA-T engine to focus on the chassis and getting the car ready in time for Dragonball. I don't like to rush things and I'm still in doubt of the setup I want.

Installing the fuel pump

Upgraded the front brakes with LS400 calipers, sandblasted and rebuild them. The CW stainless caliper kit for the Jspec rears should be here any day now. Also got some Do Luck teflon brake lines to upgrade the old tired hoses.

Got my subframes and suspension parts back from the powdercoater. Made a small mistake thinking that the large Superpro bushes were for the front of the rear subframe so ordered new OEM bushings for the front side. I chose for press-in solid front and rear diff bushes from PHR.

All the steel suspension arms are painted in 202 black.

The hubs with new bearings and studs should be ready this friday, the subframes are already on the car I just need to fit the diff, stabilizing bars and new droplinks. To all the people who said that replacing all the suspension bushes is a $*&% of a job, you are totally right

Hell yeah man nice work looks like its gunna be a beast on the road

Thoses question marks were little devil faces but it didnt come through...

Time for an update here, due to my stock open diff breaking I'm going to upgrade it. I was looking at Kaaz and TRD units but went with the TRD in the end. Stripped down the casing and sent it off to the powdercoater along with my rear brake calipers and some other small stuff. The TRD oil filter got damaged on it's way from Japan, but I could've known that would happen when it's in the same box with the top heavy diff. The freshly coated empty housing and the new seals, bearings, gaskets, plugs etc. and the Jspec caliper with a Chris Wilson stainless piston set. Real quality stuff:

The complete front side assembled.

And the rear side in progress.

Finally found some TT cam covers for the NA-T engine.

The only issue I have right now that the rear wheel bearings seem to have some play in them when I rock the wheel at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions. That obviously shouldn't be there with new bearings, I haven't quite found the cause. The hubs and flanges seemed to be in good shape (the bearing races were quite stuck but I got them off with minimal damage to the flange). I will check again when the driveshafts and diff are back in there and thightened down.

Very nice work, very nice indeed. I am not sure though what you mean by like a Treadstone manifold, are you having a cast manifold done, and using an integral wastegate turbo? Or do they do tubular ones? The CAD drawing doesn't show much material around the port holes of the flange....

Thanks for the kind words Chris, the Treadstone one is indeed an cast manifold and I was trying to replicate that design in a tubular form. However the Treadstone one is made for the GE VVTI engine and won't clear the distributor. The guy who was going to weld it for me decided to quit doing sidejobs and I bought a Whifbitz NA-t manifold instead and I'm welding my internal wastegate valve shut.

I'm curently in the process of adapting the 1ZZ Celica coils as a COP conversion method that works with either a GTE ECU or a standalone system. The dwell time, cost price and the fact that they have a build in igniter and IGN return signals make them a very promising alternative for the VVTI coils or GM coils. It would also mean I can make more room for the turbo intake as I'm swapping the stock distributor for a 7M GTE CPS.

Been a while but I've finally made some good progress with the whole CD009 swap thing. It's now at least put together so that I can try and fit it in the car and take some measurements for the shop that will be building the driveshaft. The supplied bolts didn't fit at all because they were protruding from the adapterplate for some reason. I modified the OEM bolts to fit in their place instead and have some new 10.9 bolts on order to replace them for the final install. With both of them together the massive size difference between a W58 and the CD009 becomes obvious. If the weather permits it, I'll be trying to get it in the car next week.

Very nice, not seen this thread before, good work.

The engine and gearbox fit, barely. Didn't have to bash in the firewall and tunnel though which is a bonus. Now I can take some measurements for the intercooler piping, wiring harness and the driveshaft. The shifter position is fine I just need to lower the gearbox down a bit to get the custom shifter in place.

Installed the Collins differential adapter, it converts the standard 3 point to a 4 point 1310 Dana Spicer flange. This is the same as the yoke in the gearbox.

Small update, been busy with the intercooler placement and piping routes. The turbo was fouling on the bottom radiator hose so I rotated the thermostat housing for the hose to run underneath the alternator. Also changed the OEM rad for a Koyo. The engine bay will receive a full respray before final installation of the engine, it's looking a bit tired at the moment.

Where did you get the dizzy blanking plate?

Where did you get the dizzy blanking plate?

Driftmotion in the US. I opted for the 7M CPS sensor at first but this was slightly easier and I don't need the extra space as the turbo is mounted so far back in the engine bay.

Even without the location of the turbo, it's probably easier for part sourcing too!

Received a few new bits so tried to get them fitted to the car/engine.

The stock fan shroud and viscous fan wasn't an option due to the location of the intercooler piping/auxillary damper and the larger size of the Koyo radiator. Went with a double Spal fan setup, should be suffecient at a standstill, I do not expect any heat issues while moving.

Also received a shipment of intercooler and intake pipes along with the couplers from Viper Performance. Some modifications will be necessary on the intake side, the Q45 throttlebody is mounted too far forward to clear the radiator on the 90 degree turn down. I will most likely shorten the throttlebody flange along with a Vanjen-style clamp instead of the silicon coupler.

Seems like the Blitz LM intercooler uses a slightly larger size coupler than the standard 3" (76mm), more like 3-1/4" (83mm) so will need to order two more reducers in that size along with a 90 degree coupler for the cold side radiator turn.

Cold air intake anyone?

Finally got the driveshaft back from the shop after 8 weeks, found out Collins Adapters supplied the wrong bolts (again) with the diff adapter and I'm hearing stories of the gearbox mounts excessively flexing so will need to look into that as well. I can't recommend them, had issues with multiple items from their swap kit and getting a response from them is a nightmare as well. I was better off fixing the issues myself than through them.

Has the clutch friction disc got damper springs in it? if not expect horrendous drive train noises, and the gearbox will have a real hard time as well. It would be nice if the propshaft had a stock rear U/J and the stock TT rubber doughnut, again for NVH and to cushion drivetrain shocks to the gearbox. You could weld stiffening ribs to the rather floppy looking rear g/box horizontal mounting plate.

Has the clutch friction disc got damper springs in it? if not expect horrendous drive train noises, and the gearbox will have a real hard time as well. It would be nice if the propshaft had a stock rear U/J and the stock TT rubber doughnut, again for NVH and to cushion drivetrain shocks to the gearbox. You could weld stiffening ribs to the rather floppy looking rear g/box horizontal mounting plate.

Exactly this, some thick pieces of steel perpendicular to the existing (almost) flat piece should do the trick. The NA5 diff has always been a noisy thing as it was a TRD unit with solid bushings (the current TT auto open diff is still on OEM mounts). The friction disc does have springs but it's not gonna be very street friendly anyways being 6 puck and a fairly heavy single plate clutch system. The stock doughnut isn't an option because the driveshaft is no longer the standard 3 prong but the Dana 1310 flange now, hence the billet adapter. I like to use OEM parts where possible but with so much being custom/bespoke it really limits the options sometimes. I hope the Nissan/Renault gearbox can handle some abuse and if not they're still pretty cheap at the wreckers haha. Most of the Yank cars with the Tremec swaps use the same style driveshafts as well.

Been trying some Nissan slave cilinder/ Toyota clutch hose options today. The Supra rear brake hose fits the cilinder but it's a bit short with the awkward angles of the OEM hardline and the way the Nissan cilinder sits on the box. I'll get a Mazda 323 front brake hose tomorrow, it's a fair bit longer and shares the same M10x1 fittings with the Toyota lines. The main advantage is keeping the locking tab to keep the hose from turning and the banjo getting loose over time.

Got a new Mazda 323 front brake hose today, seems to work like it should. No leaks anywhere but I haven't got the system at full pressure yet. Need to fully bleed it with a mate in the car. I do think the OEM master cilinder should be capable of operating this slave cilinder, it seems very similar in size and throw to the W58 slave.