6 spd conversion how too

Make sure you have undone the 2 cooler pipes that go to the drivers side of the box (next to exhaust in this pic) and carefully lower the trans. Unclipping and plugging the wiring loom that goes to the trans

It is VERY heavy and nose heavy with the converter full of oil.

You have to now decide if you are going to change the loom to a 6 spd one !!!!!! A lot of work and not 100% needed imo. The auto loom will work just fine with a few small adjustments, we will be cutting most of the plugs off and joining 2 wires so the starter works and reverse lights function, the stock speed sensor plug fits straight on to the six speed sensor. The black plug is the speed sensor plug and the big grey plug is the one with the wires we need to alter. (more on this later)

Finally for this session remove the drive plate from the crankshaft and you can also remove all the trans oil cooler pipes etc.

Hope this makes life easier, later guys now waiting for parts for the next installment.

Excellent work sir!

-Ian

Great work mate Can't wait to get her back! I'll tidy this thread up when your finished and move it into guides section

Tetanus you cheeky git

Has the clutch turned up yet?

What would need to be changed if you have a 5-speed and wanted a 6?

What would need to be changed if you have a 5-speed and wanted a 6?

Pretty much all the same stuff except the clutch master & slave plus the trans tunnel mod.

What would need to be changed if you have a 5-speed and wanted a 6?

Box, flywheel,clutch, prop and diff if you want the correct ratios.

Would take about 2-3 hrs longer than swapping a 6 spd.

Pretty much all the same stuff except the clutch master & slave plus the trans tunnel mod.

Box, flywheel,clutch, prop and diff if you want the correct ratios.

 

Would take about 2-3 hrs longer than swapping a 6 spd.

Thanks alot, as long as i didnt have to hack away at the trans tunnel , Think i'll change after the TT engine goes in!

How much for a tunnel panel and any idea where I can get one from? Excellent how-to fella keep up the good work.

How much for a tunnel panel and any idea where I can get one from? Excellent how-to fella keep up the good work.

As mentioned, Toyota. IIRC mine was around £70.

I will post part numbers and pics of the essential items when we get them.

Ok boys and girls we need to do some cutting to allow the bigger getrag box to sit in the tunnel, this is the panel we are going to put in.

Going back to the inside of the car.

Where you unbolted the hanbrake from you need to locate the spot welds that hold the bracing panel to the inside of the tunnel.

Make sure that you drill out all the spot weld as this will make it easier to get the bracing panel off, dont forget the hidden spot weld under the sound deadening.

When you have drilled all the spot welds you need to get under the car with a hammer and bolster and remove the bracing panel and also the 2 rubber gromets where the handbrake would go on a LHD car

when off it will look like this

and this is the bit you have chisled off

Whilst you are underneath run a 10mm drill thru this hole behind where the gear lever will go.

More tommorrow, have to go now.

You will need to remove this little black box and bracket from under where the stereo sits.

You need EVERYTHING out of the way on the top of the tunnel.

This is where you are cutting at the back, note the hole you drilled from underneath, this will help seat the new panel nicely.

You can use whatever you want to cut it , I use a plasma cutter but this is what we need to end up with.

OK you have a big hole in the tunnel, we are going to stick the new panel in with something like Sikoflex and bolt it using the handbrake and the 2 LHD handbrake mounts plus the hole you drilled at the back of the tunnel. The Sikoflex is very strong but make sure you put plenty on the panel, we want a gas tight seal.