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Thread: NA to TT engine transplant - step by step guide (Pic heavy)

  1. #1
    bleh Club Member miko_supra's Avatar
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    NA to TT engine transplant - step by step guide (Pic heavy)

    NA-TT Installation

    I've decided to start doing a write up of my engine swap/conversion that im currently doing to help any others that might want to give it a go themselves

    Parts...

    -Complete TT engine (with loom)
    -TT Dial cluster
    -TT airbox
    -TT Inlet pipe (goes from the airbox to the manifold0
    -TT throttle cable
    -TT power steering reservoir
    -Intercooler and piping
    -Uprated clutch/tt autobox
    -TT igniter pack
    -TT ECU
    -TT throttle control ECU


    Tools...

    -Engine crane
    -decent chains/straps/rope to lift the engine
    -Torque bar
    -Blow lamp for difficult nuts and bolts...especially on the exhaust. (although i have heard plus gas is very good.)
    -Clutch alignment tool
    -Obviously a decent tool box with sockets, spanners etc... definatly get 2 sets of 12mm, 14mm and 17mm spanners as these get used allot.


    Day 1 & 2

    -Picked up the engine and got it on a pallet with wheels on it so that i can move it about easily

    -Gave the engine a good clean and polish
    -Before any of this i covered up all the electrical connectors and hose ends with small bags and elastic bands
    -Ive used auto glym engine cleaner on mine and a small water spray gun attached to a compressor. This doesn't use that much water and runs at about 8 bar (so good for blasting off all the dirt!)








    Day 3
    Spent today just preparing the car

    -Got the car jacked up and the front wheels off



    -Then removed the battery, headlamps, bumper and active spoiler




    -Next job was to remove the 2jz-ge ecu from the passenger footwell. Carpet needs removing aswell as a plastic cover.



    (Then it started to rain! so thats all i got done today)
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    bleh Club Member miko_supra's Avatar
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    Day 4

    Got quite a bit done today, although it doesnt look allot it all took me about 4 hours

    -removed the air intake piping, filter and exhaust heat shield


    -removed the first cat. all 4 nuts aswell as the 2 bolts on the second cat pipe were taken off from underneath the car using a long extension (requires allot of strength and penetrating fluid..possibly even heating the nuts up.)


    -drained the coolant from the radiator. There is a small white drain plug that you undo. in the picture it has just been undone a little bit. but the whole plug can come out for a faster drain. (the coolant running down from the top is because i undid the upper rad hose. this will speed it up, oh and yeah there will be some coolant in it!!) i also undid the lower rad hose too after the drain.


    -Then i drained the coolant from the block. There is a drain plug located on the drivers side towards the rear. (picture isn't very good, but the cat needs to be off and its just below the shiny coolant pipe that runs horizontally, which is that blurry thing running along the middle of the picture)


    -removed the 3 coil pack leads


    -removed the alternator lead


    -removed the lead from the ignitor pack


    -removed the two connectors on the fusebox


    -removed the battery lead from the fusebox. a flap needs opening to reveal a nut that needs undoing for this


    -removed the ground lead which sits at the back of the engine


    -removed the two coolant pipes that go into the firewall at the back


    The next job is the power steering lines. These run from the pump, underneath the engine (bolting onto the sump) and into the steering box.

    This is quite a messy job so gloves and rags at hand is a good tip.

    -you can see here on this picture the two fluid lines next to one another that bolt onto the sump. i undid the two bolts.


    -I then took off the rubber pipe that connects to the pipe on the passenger side and drained the steering fluid. The other line doesn't have a pipe that disconnects from it, this instead is fixed on and works its way round to the pump and reservoir. take the rubber pipe off of the drivers side once the fluid has drained (some may still come out of this pipe)


    -The large bolt in this picture needs taking out as well as the two small rubber hoses. make sure its just the bolt turning and not the whole assembly. use a spanner on the other larger nut to stop this (the brown rusty one an inch further up in the picture). (only do this once the fluid has all drained, but a small amount may still come out so have a rag handy.)


    -On the steering box there is a similar connection to that on the pump. Take this off. In the picture i have put the bolt back in to stop debre getting in. and have done the same on the pump too.


    -Now with that all off i weaved the pump pipe down through to the bottom of the engine and brought the whole lot out...


    - a good tip is to bag all the pipes. this prevents dirt getting in and collects any of the extra drips
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    bleh Club Member miko_supra's Avatar
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    day 5

    For today my main aim was to detatch the a/c pump from the engine. i wanted to do this so that i could keep all of the lines attached to it and mate the same one onto the tt block, thus not having to spend 50 regasing it. Although you can purge all the gas if you wish it doesnt really matter.

    -So to begin with i removed the fan cover, which is just 4 bolts at all 4 corners


    -The a/c pump has 5 fixings
    -3 bolts at the front




    -1 bolt from underneath


    -and a further nut and stud attached to the side. the stud needs to come out too (one of those star shaped heads)


    -once they are all undone, the drive belt needs to be slackened off. This is done using a socket on a braker bar and just pushing down clockwise.


    -when the belt is slackened, pull the pump away from the belt and rest it just below ensuring none of he pipes aren't under any stress.


    -ok with that done another little job was to remove the fuel line from the fuel filter by undoing a the large bolt in the picture, aswell as the earth lead too.


    -a small amount of fuel trickeled out of the filter and fuel line, but after a couple of minutes the fuel started to syphon out of the tank. so to solve this problem, gain access to the pump underneath the spare wheel and remove this fuel line (placing the bolt back it to stop debre getting in.)


    -tomorrow im planning on removing the drive shaft so to gain a better access in the area i removed the rear wheels, exhaust (the whole lot including 2nd cat) and exhaust heat shields.


    -this is what needs taking off tomorrow or whenever
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    bleh Club Member miko_supra's Avatar
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    day 6 part 1

    ok to get back on with were i left off yesterday i got the drive shaft off of the car...

    -firstly remove the two brackets, first one that is attached to the drive shaft, held in with two bolts


    -the second is located further back and isn't actually attached to the shaft, but will get in the way when trying to pull the shaft out.
    -once they are off, undo the 3 bolts on the diff shown in the picture.


    -Now the shaft can be slid out by pushing it towards the gearbox, taking it off of the locating shaft from the diff and removing it completely


    -Next was the gear shift assembly. Firstly remove the ashtray, and gear knob then remove the dash piece that surrounds the gear lever.
    -then remove the metal fixing, which are 4 screws and remove the rubber gator and seal (these both pull out.)


    -Then undo these 4 screws here



    -Underneath the car, pull back a rubber cover and disconnect this bracket from the gear shifter (its a nut and a bolt.) Then you can pull the gear shift out through the top inside the car. (Also in this pic you can see where the prop shaft was located into the gearbox



    -now you need to drain the gearbox oil by undoing this bolt here.


    -then take off part of the clutch fork mechanism (left hand side of gearbox.) undo 3 bolts. two are easy to get to and one is located from the font of the engine which also attaches the bracket for the fuel filter ground lead (so that needs coming off with it and putting somewhere safe). the picture shows the location of the 3rd bolt.(to the left of the picture is the engine sump) once off, just let the lot dangle.


    -now remove the gearbox bracket by undoing these 4 bolts and 4 nuts. Don't worry, the gearbox wont fall on your face!


    -once the bracket is off, remove this part too, which is what the 4 nuts were attached to


    -now the ECU loom needs taking out. theres a big white and orange connector in the foot well that is mounted at the back. take it off the mount and try and pull these two apart. took me about 5 mins to eventually work out how to do it. and just make sure everything is free to travel up through the heat shield.
    -to help getting it out undo the two bolts that hold the charcoal cannister in and pull it away from the firewall.
    -then undo the 3 bolts for the loom shown in the picture.
    -the metal bracket that bolts onto the firewall was a bit sticky on mine and just needed some gently prising with a flathead screw driver to make it come away. now just pull it through (a second person to be down in the foot well is handy)


    -once out just lay it on top of the engine


    -now take the throttle cable off of the throttle body. just loosen this nut in the picture, pull the butterfly spring mechanism towards the drivers side and slide it out. (just leave the cable on the side of the engine bay for now)


    -now take the bonnet off. before hand remember to take off the windscreen washer line. the whole line doesn't need to come off just the part nearest where it leaves the bonnet and travels into the wing (just clips and pulling the hose off from the rest is all that's involved)


    -to take the bonnet off is easy, but a second person is needed. just take off the 4 bolts from the hinges (2 each side) and away you go. Not as heavy as i originally thought either.
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    bleh Club Member miko_supra's Avatar
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    day 6 part 2

    -it was just a case now of disconnecting a few things that i had forgotten about before...

    -ok first there was this connector on this steering box


    -then this vacuum line that goes to the braking system (take the hose off where indicated or it will get in the way when taking the engine out.)


    -then this connector here the whole thing comes off with the bracket


    -then this fuel line here which is located passenger side near to where the inlet manifold curves round.


    -there was also a hose that went into the charcoal cannister that needs disconnecting too.

    -i decided to take the radiator out as well to give me some more room. this is just two 10mm bolts on the brackets at the top.


    -Make sure all the looms are on top of the engine and aren't going to get caught on anything. (one thing i found was the fuel line from the fuel filter was caught on the front cross member so i brought that up and tucked in onto the engine near the top)

    -Now get your engine crane and strap it/ tie it/ chain it...whatever to your engine. there are two lifting points on the engine- one at the back left and one at the front right.


    -i then decided to remove the fan too for more clearance. this is just 4 nuts holding it in.

    -then the engine mounts need undoing. these are just two nuts from underneath


    -i also took off the drivers side mount completely as it was going to foul on the steering box. this is just another nut from on top


    -there where three of us for this job.

    -one to control the engine crane
    -the other to be in charge and control the engine coming out making sure nothing was hitting (careful of the a/c pump if you have disconnected it from the engine) and to steer it
    -the third (ME!) to lay under the car and hold onto the tail of the gearbox making sure it doesn't hit and pushing down on it to help it clear.


    -and then it was out! a tip i learnt is to put a bag over the revealed end of the gearbox as a small amount of oil may still trickle out.


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    I'm addicted now! MEMBERSHIP EXPIRED
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    Looking good. Go team! lol
    With the wiring loom, did you just trace it back along and undo the connectors as you went?

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    bleh Club Member miko_supra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nwo1986 View Post
    Looking good. Go team! lol
    With the wiring loom, did you just trace it back along and undo the connectors as you went?
    they are all located in close proximity with one another. 3 of them are connected to the ECU, and you can work out what the other ones are with common sense

  8. #8
    bleh Club Member miko_supra's Avatar
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    yeah if you just have a look at the picture of the loom on top of the engine...the orange and the grey one are the only 2 that aren't connected to the ecu. easy peasy!

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    bleh Club Member miko_supra's Avatar
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    day 7

    just a little bit of work done today...got the gearbox, clutch and flywheel off.

    -Ok firstly disconnect these two connectors and lay them on top of the engine



    -then undo these bolts. including the two that hold in the starter motor on the left


    -remember to do this bolt on the other side down on the right. there was an exact same on on the left too, but this was taken off with the clutch fork assembly before the engine came out, which holds in a bracket.


    -before taking the gearbox off remember that the C of G is going to be completely changed so just bare this in mind as the engine will tilt forward (get anything out of the way)
    -then just slide the gear box out. there are only a couple of 3/4 inch long studs locating the gearbox, that hold it in. so just slide it off of these. the box doesn't weigh too much and is easy enough to carry by yourself (but still watch your back and all that for this one)


    -now take the clutch out. the part you can see at the moment is the housing which contains the release mechanism. there are just 6 bolts for this and it comes right out with the clutch.


    -I still haven't decided what clutch to use on mine yet, but I've been told that the stock clutch is sill good for stock power on the tt. Mine looks like its on its last legs any way so its worth replacing if you are still sticking with stock.


    -now take the fly wheel off which is 8 bi hex bolts. when you try and undo them the fly wheel will turn, so to get over this, gently place a flathead screwdriver between the teeth on the fly wheel and wedge it into part of the housing at the back (indicated where i put the screwdriver on mine in the picture) or alternatively if you used an air powered gun to undo them, the impact shock would overcome the flywheel turning i would imagine.


    -two parts to the fly wheel. The primary (which has the teeth) and the secondary which sits in front and what the clutch presses against.


    -now im using my n/a 5 speed box to put onto the tt engine, so the 5 speed fly wheel needs putting onto the tt. and obviously if you were using a 6 speed, then you would need a 6 speed fly wheel.
    -to put the fly wheel on put in all the bolts and do them up to leave 1 thread showing. then tap around the fly wheel with a rubber mallet to ensure the flywheel is properly located. keep doing this as you tighten them up with a ratchet.


    -the bolts must be tightened up in pairs (ie; tighten one up, then tighten the one opposite that one. then the next pair should be at 90 degrees to the last pair.
    -Torque the bolts using a torque wrench to 36ft.lbs and then turn them a further 90 degrees.
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    bleh Club Member miko_supra's Avatar
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    day 8

    just did some cleaning on the car today...

    -steam cleaned the engine bay and suspension components (cover up all the electrical connectors if doing this)




    -and my new spark plugs came through today. only ordered them yesterday afternoon!
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    bleh Club Member miko_supra's Avatar
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    should have a couple of decent bits to write up tomorrow...going to install the side mount, new spark plugs, new ecu, new throttle cable and take out the old rev counter but now i'm just waiting on some parts till i can put the new engine in. these being....

    tt rev counter
    1st cat
    tt power steering reservoir
    inlet pipe
    tt airbox
    new flywheel bolts (i got these from mvp with the new clutch for 20 from toyota its about 80)
    and i've decided to go for an RPS max clutch with street disc (should have this in a couple of weeks)

    *Edit by Homer: Pic missing*

  12. #12
    bleh Club Member miko_supra's Avatar
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    ok got the new sparkies in today, that was easy. got nothing left to do now
    was going to install the intercooler but the ducting and brackets for it are missing
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    bleh Club Member miko_supra's Avatar
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    my dad machined up a clutch alignment tool for me today too which was nice of him
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  14. #14
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
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    does the NA fuel pump get automatically upgraded on these conversions?
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  15. #15
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scooter View Post
    does the NA fuel pump get automatically upgraded on these conversions?
    NA and TT fuel pumps are the same mate.

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