alxns7

OK well I'm pretty sure that my EGR cooler gasket is leaking (Plate at the rear of the cylinder head). Seen some nasty pictures from 7M-GTE heads. Curious thing it doesn't seem to happen too often on 2JZs. Does anyone know what's the best way to tilt the engine forward? I'd go with removing the fan, loosening engine mounts, unbolting tranny from crossmember, and then lift it up. Anything else I should know?

Ok so I've got an exhaust leak for a while now (clicking sound coming from the rear of the engine). I've unbolted most of the turbo aluminium pipes as well as the heat shield to look for any dark area, but no luck. Before I remove my turbos (still stock), could my leak come from the rear EGR plate? I mean, is there a small channel in the block that goes from the exhaust side to the EGR rear plate? Any help would be much appreciated.

One fix for my leaking rack that did it for me was putting back the stock steering oil cooler (I had no cooler when I bought the car and I'm pretty sure this made it leak)

Ok so I'm not sure whether I have a problem yet but this might be interesting for some. Ever since I got my EU spec there's been a few oil leaks everywhere around the engine, and intermittent oil smoke coming out of the exhaust (occasionally a LOT). I've always thought it was due to tired turbo or valve seals, until recently when I started reading about crankcase ventilation on the 2JZ. It all made sense and I decided to check the PCV valve. Of course the grommet around the valve wouldn't budge (hard as plastic) and it broke to go inside the cam cover. Now, I'm not sure if the PCV valve really was faulty but I decided to buy a new one anyway. In the end I replaced the PCV valve, the grommet, one of the ventilation line between the two cam covers, as well as the oil cap seal. Also, during the operation I noticed that almost all my cam cover screws were loose, so I torqued them all back to 6 Nm. First of all, it seems to have fixed the intermittent oil burning problem. Now it will just smoke a little when at high vacuum (coming at a roundabout) or at idle time to time but this is probably due to oil remains in the intake from before. But more importantly, the car will now hit 1-1.05 bar against 0.85-0.90 bar before (it's just on wastegate spring pressure for now) Does that make sense? I'm not sure. But the bottom line is, check your cam cover screws and PCV system ! Easy and cheap fix for a healthy engine. The only problem I have now is the fuel cut. Though it's cool throwing a flame time to time

Yep cheers, at some point I will have to replace a few shaft seals around so I'll check everything

Cool thanks When I say mine clonks, it's not a metallic sound. Just a solid 'thump'. Sometimes it shakes the whole shell a bit, which just sounds a bit unusual when coming from a Clio or Yaris - but obvious considering the complete different layout. Actually our newish Mercedes Sprinter vans at work also do the same kind of 'thump'

Indeed! But appart from the propshaft joint play, is a diff supposed to have that sort of play?

Just out of curiosity, how much play do you have in your diff? Any 'clunk' when driving? I don't know the technical term but here is what I mean to illustrate I read it's pretty common on Supras. I have a little play, not as bad as in that video but it is noticeable when driving. It's a torsen 6-speed.

Of course, the cam journals. Ok good to know, thanks Chris

Oh yes that's true. I was actually wondering if there's any aluminium part that wears out but I don't really think so so it might well be oxydation

What else apart from the head cast is made out of aluminium in the 2JZ? I did an oil analysis recently and the results were interesting. Diagnosis is satisfactory showing normal wear for everything, except aluminium that is a little higher than usual, though not alarming. It also said it might be internal oxydation

Actually not too long on the German forums, a gentleman was selling a full 2JZ-GTE engine, V160 included...... for 4000 Swiss francs. You do the conversion

On the size and handling question... WHAT makes the handling better with stock wheels? Higher tire sidewall? Higher ET? Correct width? (235 front 255 rear on a stock TT) My wheels are close to stock (stock width, ET 40, and 18") so I can't complain, but I was wondering. If someone could explain!

I agree that is not as bad as mine was! I had to open the throttle so it would start after cranking for 3-5 sec when cold.