Tuoppi

My car also has this sound. Its been there atleast 2years/10 000km and it hasnt caused any problems. Its audible only at hot idle.

I removed idle control valve piping and turbo number 2 inlet pipe, it was still tight but doable.

I have a 10" sub with custom box in place of spare wheel and 4x focal speakers and tweeters. These all are powered with one class D 5ch amplifier.

They are bushes for steering rack to subframe mounts, should give you more accurate steering feel.

Yes they will fit, i repaired my seat with gears from gamiviti. Be careful when you install new gears to the saft, they crack pretty easy. Its very important that both seat rails are exactly in the same position when you put things together, if they are out of position even a little, it will chew new gears up very fast

Kouvola, its a small town in southern Finland. Have you visited Finland?

I dont have any specific details about the turbos because i bought them used, but they were built in finnish tuning garage specialized in turbos. They made ~480fwhp at 1.3bar boost in previous owners car with cams and fcon piggypack. I havent dynoed my car with them yet..

Hello all. I've been reading this forum couple of years now, so i decided that its a good time to become a paid member This forum has been a great help with my car, there are so much useful information in here. Here is couple pics of my supra, its a 1993 jdm auto tt running Bpu upgrades with hybrid twins and upgraded fuel system.

You can also test if it's mechanical fault in transmission or electrical fault in transmission control circuit with this test (copy&paste from service manual): MANUAL SHIFTING TEST HINT: With this test, it can be determined whether the trouble is within the electrical circuit or is a mechanical problem in the transmission. 1. DISCONNECT SOLENOID WIRE FROM TRANSMISSION 2. INSPECT MANUAL DRIVING OPERATION Check that the shift and gear positions correspond with the table below. Shifter position Gear position D O/D 2 3rd L 1st R Reverse P Pawl lock HINT: If the L, 2 and D position gear positions are difficult to distinguish, do the following road test. • While driving, shift through the L, 2 and D positions. Check that the gear change corresponds to the shift position. If any abnormality is found in the above test, the problem is in the transmission itself. 3. CONNECT SOLENOID WIRE 4. CANCEL OUT DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE Is your car GE or GTE? This test is for a340e transmission with 2jz-gte, not sure if it works with 2jz-ge engines...?

Try another engine control ecu, had pretty similar problems and the problem was faulty ecu.

i had a similar problem in my 93 jdm tt in last summer, in reverse it was only beeping but not moving at all. I checked transmission fault codes and there was fault codes 62&63 (faulty transmission shift solenoid circuit). Changed the engine ecu and it has been working perfectly after that . DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE CHECK 1. Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine. 2. Push in the O/D main switch to ON. HINT: Warning and diagnostic trouble codes can be read only when the O/D main switch is ON. If it is OFF, the O/D OFF indicator light up will light continuously and will not blink. 3.Connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the DLC 1 or DLC2. 4. Read the diagnostic trouble code indicated by the number of times the O/D OFF indicator light blinks. If the system is operating normally, the light will blink 2 times per second.

i'm from Kouvola, Kymenlaakso region. I think that there are quite many supra's in Tampere, but in here they are pretty rare. In summer one MKIV n/a used to drive around town, but now it have vanished somewhere

Hi there. Just bought my first supra last winter, it's a 1993 twin turbo with automatic transmission:) Some pics: