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Mike2JZ

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Mike2JZ last won the day on December 27 2023

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  1. They work fine, see them a lot of japanese imports, some use them on small singles as well.
  2. More important is to prime the oil filter by filling it with oil before fitting. I've tested back to back with and without this, and looking at oil pressure logs there is a small delay without priming the filter where engine spins without oil pressure. We are only talking about 1-2 seconds, so not likely to be that big of a deal given riders point above, but if you wanna be anal then i'd prioritize that over priming the system by spinning it over without starting
  3. Is it the male or female terminal you need?
  4. Take a photo of it, might have a terminal for it
  5. There bolts and a large slide tab at the top that needs to be released before you can pull it out fully iirc
  6. Not that bad if you know what you are doing with wiring. If you arent into wiring then I'd probably avoid and get someone else to do it
  7. Make a custom loom, or modify ge non vvti loom for use with vvti and crank/cam signals etc.
  8. If you load the engine up at sub 2000rpm in a high gear you will hear the clutch rattle, this is super common on all aftermarket clutches. Some louder than others but they will all do it. This isnt a modern diesel, choose the correct gear for the speed you are going. Not that difficult to do.
  9. Likely thermostat if broken pipe is stone cold when rest of engine is warm.
  10. SRD uses Kelford on pretty much everything. Can't say we've ever seen anything like this in probably 100+ sets of camshafts, normally quality is up there, hence why we use them. That said I guess anything could happen in manufacturing/transportation/installation etc. Disapointing to hear they arent a bit more open to helping you out. Did you buy direct or through a dealer? If through a dealer I'd see if they can leverage a bit to help you out.
  11. good to see ya on here clint, new setup looks like its gonna be a beast.
  12. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202871192938?hash=item2f3c10bd6a:g:xwUAAOSwt95eEwC4&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0GdpjVsk%2FFawlttLlPIBHkIMGVsLZlWEMWovPxlLAgVUjAlLlOC66eMNz6vFr6h29ezHA%2FqzzLXVokMX7BF5qILdfXyhzAvscqNDc8OzEfe%2FT8xjzX7eUsBnYiL0N5PwZzQs2Eme1Ds455fFVly4N%2Fb%2FL1MaCPHO7ozROTT9Ru8R5ZSphQ6mhiT8n4w5VZ2ogJOWApENtks20Th5sj6ZVrPxQFdK53pLTyFFin3QTUFMyz8DuZsAqbXH%2FO5lkCnd1fsX%2BOz3rtEHT1CnqWChX74%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9L8xaSZYw use these
  13. I’m not sure how it happened, but I think I’ll blame Jefferson at RR for his offhand comments of how it would be nice to get rid of all the factory wiring as it will look better and have more functionality with a fresh setup (he’s not wrong, but was tight on cash at the time so opted out initially). That thought stuck in my head for a few months before I started cracking and slowly started acquiring more and more expensive black boxes and gizmo, then decided the C127 was too small to see properly, so went C1212. Before I knew it, I had amassed a small fortune in electronics. Even though it took longer, I’m glad I waited as I have all the toys I think I’ll ever need at this stage of the cars development. So we have: - Custom Steering Wheel with CanSwitchV3 + Otto Buttons + Domiworks Paddles - CANTCU Transmission Controller - Motec M150 Devel Firmware - Motec PDM 15 - Motec PDM 30 - Motec C1212 Dash - Motec 15 Button Keypad - Motec 5 Button Rotary - Motec DHB - Motec Rear Facing Camera - MSEL Master Relay - Syvecs Expander X20 - Syvecs Can2Lam - Syvecs 100hz GPS/IMU - Turbosmart Electronic Straightgate 50mm - CanHub CBD08 Motec PDM30 & PDM15 These power distribution modules will as the name implies, take care of distributing power from the battery to electronics, lights and anything else that requires power on the car. There are no fuses or relays anywhere on the car now as everything is built into these two little boxes using solid state technology trickery, essentially mimicking what a traditional relay box/fuse setup does, but in a much more streamlined package and can be managed entirely from the software side of things. The PDM30 will provide power for most of the interior and engine related components and be installed in the front of the car, whereas the PDM15 will take care of everything in the rear and any extra things that don’t fit anywhere else. M-SEL Master Relay Switch This little guy is quite clever, essentially it’s a solid state relay that can disconnect the battery from the rest of the electronics through a driver, external or CANBUS based switch. Any issues can have their diagnostic messages sent through the CANBUS to display on the dash, so easy to understand any issues whilst strapped into a bucket seat. Same job as an old school kill switch, just better in about every way. Motec M150 Devel ECU This ECU will control the engine and communicate over the CANBUS with various devices in order to implement everything required by me. I upgraded this ECU to a developer license to mess around with M1Build which will allow me to repurpose or create custom functions for the project and develop a custom canbus configuration to keep all these devices playing nice with each other. CANTCU Gearbox This is a controller for 8HP & DCT gearbox implementations which keeps the factory transmission ECU inside the gearbox, and feeds the correct data over CANBUS to make the stock TCU function as intended. I like the OEM tune of these gearboxes and it drives super smooth and the torque management system is just like OEM, so really clever and efficient when paired up with an engine ECU that has proper torque management strategy built into it. Can flash the OEM gear map like you would on any other factory 8HP car, so can change things on the TCM side if required, but other than some torque limits and minor mods to TCU, I want to keep the gearbox control messing to a minimum. Racegrade EGT Module Will allow connection of 8 EGT sensors, which then feeds the data from each over the CANBUS back to ECU. I liked this module compared to competitors as I can mount it somewhere in engine bay, plug my EGT sensors directly into module and only have to pass 4 wires for power and communications through the bulkhead back to ECU, rather than 20 wires that all need to be specific material to keep the EGT’s accurate through a bulkhead connector, which is a pain. Will have per cylinder EGT’s & downpipe EGT, with a spare for anything additional. Syvecs CAN2LAM This thing is epic. Been waiting for this to be released for some time and it came through at the right time. This is a wideband/lambda control module that can take up to 8X NTK wideband sensors, with up to two exhaust pressure sensor inputs for single or multi bank exhaust pressure compensations for the lambda signals It can send all this data to any ECU using CANBUS, so wiring isn’t that scary. Will probably implement this in a way that can be removed from car fairly quick in case I want to chuck it on another setup easily. Will use this and 7 NTK sensors to give me oversight over per cylinder variation on fuelling and overall fuelling in the downpipe. Thinking to put an exhaust pressure sensor in each scroll of the manifold, so can keep an eye on pressure on both scrolls. You’d hope they would be equal, but I’m interested to know if there any difference. Syvecs 100HZ GPS/IMU One of the fastest GPS systems available at a consumer aftermarket level as far as I’m aware. Whilst it can provide a speed signal to ECU, the positioning data for long/lat/roll and forces of pitch/yaw/roll will be very interesting to me. Can plot out racetracks or drag runs using GPS data and use previous run data to do some sneaky tune modifications. Motec 15 Button Keypad This keypad works over the vehicles CANBUS system and can be used to control functions on the PDMs, ECU or Dash. Will have this mounted near my head on the nearest roll cage so I can still push buttons whilst strapped in with harnesses. Motec 5 Button Rotary Switch This is a cool addon, it integrates via the canbus and works mainly with the Dash & PDM. The rotary button allows for menu scrolling & selection on the dash, similar to what you might get on a MK5 Supra iDrive system for example, just a bit more simple in comparison. Syvecs X20 Expander This works similar to a Motec E888, and is just an expander for extra I/O for the ECU. Communicates this data over the CANBUS to main ECU or dash. Also comes with two built in lambda sensor controllers, which I was going to use initially until the CAN2LAM was released. Motec DHB This is a high current driver that can control things like fuel pumps, electronic waste gates, water pumps etc. using signal from the ECU to tell it what to do. Trying to control some of these systems direct from ECU will normally end up frying the board on the ECU, so an intermediary box like these become very useful. Motec C1212 Not much to say other than big ass display that is miles ahead of the competition in terms of customization and quality currently (in my opinion). The C127 display looked a bit pony once the stock dash was removed, so decided to make it a bit easier on my eyes by fitting the C1212. Only thing I'm still on the fence about is getting an aftermarket ABS controller from SCS Delta. Otherwise I think im good to go now on the electronic front. About half way through the year I setup this little mobile workstation so I could power up most of the new toys and make sure I could get them to communicate and setup the CANBUS network in my free time in evenings. Everything went smoothly with this and I get everything I needed out of it at the time. One thing I've always wanted for my Supra but never found one was the Defi Super Sport Cluster, for its time period I think its an epic dash. So if I cant have the real thing I'll make the next best thing. Needs a bit more work till design is finished, but you get the idea. Will stick the reverse facing camera in the right side of the screen whilst in this view so can always see people disapearing away One thing I really like using the Motec rotary controller is that it can function with the dash as seen in the video below. Essentially lets you have lots of digital rotary switches, so you can choose what mode you want your boost/traction/launch control/dbw sensitivity/ gearbox modes or whatever else you can dream of, all from a nice drop down menu rather than needing loads of physical rotary switches. Next I had to figure out where I was gonna stick all this stuff in the car, so got round to test mounting a few things. Once strapped into seats you cannot move, so all controls and adjustments basically need to be in reach of the drivers seat, so had to get creative either putting things above or below the driver. Needed something to mount the button keypad and master switch over rides above driver rollcage, so had one of our apprentices mock up this mount. Need to make a slight revision to design and print it out a different plastic, but as a POC it works great, allows easy mounting of buttons directly above my head. Started mocking up a rubber mounted plate for main board that will house the majority of the brains of the car. Going to design it in a way that all the wiring coming in/out of this area is completely modular, so can remove panel for each wiring changes if required, as no doubt I'll be messing with the configuration of things as time goes on. Will make a kick panel that goes over this once done to keep any excited passengers feet away
  14. Using the dipstick still. PHR oil temp thingy replaces the low oil level sensor, not the dipstick
  15. After waiting patiently until our fabricator Ash could spare some time for my build, he eagerly jumped on the welder and got to work straight away as soon as the new gearbox was in and mounted. First on the agenda was mocking up part of a 4'' downpipe to see what room we had to play with. Same process again with the 4'' intercooler pipework. Once the downpipe was in place, the straightgate and wastegate collectors could be fabbed up The straightgate 50mm is compact on the pipework side of things, but the housing for the electric motors and other electronics is quite a chonky boi, so finding space to mount everything was a challenge. Ideally I would of love to have had it mounted in the space near where the brake booster normally sits, and on a poppet style wastegate this could have been do-able as its basically a 90 degree bend within the gate itself. The straightgate on the otherhand is as the name implies a straight shot through the gate, so I wanted to keep the flow pre/post gate as free flowing as possible with minimum bends and turns to help encourage flow through the wastegate collector. Feel like having a series of sharp 90 degree bends to mount the gate in a more serviceable location probably defeated the idea of using a straightgate in the firstplace. To make life a bit easier for Ash i sourced a billet wastegate collector with the correct flange for the new gate. Nice thing with billet is that this piece has been CFD flow'd for the best efficiency and has little risk of cracking so should be solid for years to come and saves Ash from having to spend a few hours making something from scratch. Ash did a good job on finding a spot where it was still semi accessible without getting in the way of anything else. Next up for the exhaust system is to get the rest of the downpipe pipe made, recirculate the straightgate into there, then fab up a midpipe and rear section. Was wondering how we were going to tackle the 5'' pipework as its really hard to find here in the UK. Again Ash to the rescue, looking in a corner of our storage area and coming out with two massive 5'' 90 pipes. An hour later and he fabbed up this beauty above. Looks and is totally OTT, love it. Also chucked in my pre turbo pressure/temperature sensor and pre turbo mass air flow sensor. Fairly hidden unless looking at the right angles. Once the turbo outlet to intercooler pipework has been made, then we look into the lowerhalf of the air filter pipework and see what can be squeezed in there. Big thanks to Ash and many apologies for the crazy amount of fab that is still left to do, I promise it will be really cool when its all done and working
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