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Burna's UK Spec Restoration


Burna

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First of all, welcome :) And thanks for taking the time to peruse my thread. The purpose of this thread is personally document the history of the car, and mainly the restoration process of my beloved UK Spec Supra, and to keep track of the ongoing process over the years to come. It's also to help other members who have asked me about the work I've had done and to list the processes and parts used. This will be a little different to other project threads, as you won't find big singles or 'bling' here I'm afraid. For people who know me, I'm very much a 'what you see is what you get' type of guy, and that philosophy carries right through to most things in my life, including my Supra. So be prepared to see mostly 'as Toyota intended it' and lots of OEM porn in this thread.

 

So a little bit of history on the car. I bought it way back in November 2004 off ebay, and not knowing anything about Supra's, or even that a forum existed! I took Littlenum with me to view the car and go out with the owner on a test drive to get a feel if everything was in order. Littlenum was happy, and that was more than good enough for me, sold! The car was completely stock and not messed with, just what I was looking for. I then discover this forum and the car goes off to Chris Wilson for a major service, new OEM radiator and a lovely new Chris Wilson SMIC, and the rest stays stock until 2007. In that year Lovatt carries out some spray work to tidy up things and fits the OEM skirts and spats, and then thanks to TrickTT and all his hard work the old and tired boaty UK Spec shocks and springs were binned and replaced with new Toyota bilsteins and second hand J-Spec springs, new top mounts, gaiters, and drop links all round. Also fitted at the same time were a full set of new UK Spec brakes, front and rear. The stock UK 17" alloys were replaced with new TTE alloys from Lexus, bargain at £1000 I thought for brand new quality wheels with the correct offsets! Chris Wilson would be proud lol. The car was de-catted with a one piece de-cat pipe, and as a UK Spec doesn't need a restrictor ring it was just left to the larger UK wastegate to limit the boost to the slightly higher level of 0.9 to 1.0 bar. As a precaution a Thor fuel cut defender was bought, and as I had a completely untouched loom I wasn't going to be the first person to hack away it at and take its virginity, a fields harness was purchased for the FCD to be wired in. Overkill and expensive you must think just for a couple of wires, but I like to start things off right. Defi link boost gauge and SPA digital dual oil pressure and temperature gauge were also fitted in a twin pillar pod to keep the dash OEM with all the vents and clock. 2009 rolls around and Pete kindly fitted Race Logic Traction Control for me, that is when my foresight to fit a fields harness paid off, as that would have really hacked at the loom! 2009 is also the year that the car no longer becomes my daily driver, and is garaged for the winter to be just taxed and driven for the six months of the year. Nothing notable is changed from that point on, other than fitting an HKS EBC and upping the boost for Dragonball 2013 to around 1.3 bar.

 

The car is what I and others call an 'honest Dragonball car', and has the scars to prove it (stone chips etc...). Since 2006 and 2007, then again from 2012 onwards it's been driven hard and beaten within an inch of it's life twice a year across Europe on Dragonball, and get's driven the same over here if I'm out chasing Littlenum and desperately trying to keep up! lol I've always had the feeling the car breathes a sigh of relief whenever I park it up and get out lol So when I decided last year that the car will potentially be a keeper for the next 20-30 years, I decided it was about time I showed the old girl some love to ensure she stays with me for the years to come.

 

So on to the first work that was carried out over last winter by Tim at TB Developments. I've known Tim for over 10 years and seen a lot of his work and admire his attention to detail and his philosophy of 'do it right and do it once'. I dropped the car off for the initial work of replacing the 3 fuel lines and 2 brake lines down the length of the car, and to tidy up the underneath of the car. Once up on the ramp we assessed the condition of the car and decided to go all out and replace everything from the front bulkhead back with new OEM parts. This decision was made for two reasons, firstly because a lot of parts were passed saving, like heat shields and fuel tank cover, and secondly while the subframe was off and everything was accessible it made sense to replace everything so we didn't have to go back to that area ever again, and in the future continue to move forward with further restoration in other areas. The subframe was not to be touched or have anything replaced at this point, it's crudy, but everything works, so both subframes will be fully replaced further down the line.

 

The strip down begins, the rear bumper is removed as the car will be treated right to the rear of the car.

 

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Sills are straightened to remove various damage of incorrect jacking of the car over the years.

 

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Then onto the rust treatment. First all the original Toyota underseal which was applied to UK cars from new was all removed, then the Kurust rust treatment was applied, along with Dinitrol RC900 spray for the hard to reach places where a brush used for the Kurust treatment couldn't reach.

 

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The car was then all masked off in preparation for the application of the anti-rust primer.

 

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Zinc 182 Anti-Rust Primer is applied over everything.

 

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The new fuel tank cover comes only with a cursory thin covering of paint from Toyota, so after discussing it with Tim, we decided to go with Zinc 182 Anti-Rust Primer, then U-Pol Raptor on the inside, and gloss black on the outside to flow with the gloss black of the rear bumper.

 

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U-Pol Raptor was then applied to everything to give it the final seal and protective hard durable coating to ensure the car is good for another 20-30 years. Again, as with all the processes above, this has been applied from the front bulkhead right through to the very rear of the car.

 

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Now time for fitting of all the new OEM parts. The only second hand item fitted was a rear crash bar. Mine was not salvageable, so Ibrar had a acid treated and powder coated one at his place, so was nice to have an excuse to pop over to Speedwell Alloys and have a good catch up with my old friend Iby and buy his crash bar. This was then fitted to the car, and as with everything else Tim uses all new stainless steel fixings.

 

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Fitting of all the new OEM parts briefly consisted of all the three long fuel lines from front bulk head back right up to the fuel tank were replaced with new OEM parts, along with both the long brake lines and all other brake lines up to the goodridge hoses. All new fuel tanks straps, heat shields etc... Basically, as I said before everything from front bulk head back was replaced with new OEM parts :) I will put a full list of the new parts in a post further down. To finish of the rust prevention Dinitrol 3125HS Rust Proofing Cavity Wax was applied to box sections and hard to reach places as well as some parts.

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Edited by Burna (see edit history)
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List of new Toyota parts used

 

Brake Pipe 47326-14040

Brake Pipe 47327-14030

Tube, Fuel 77255-14420

Fuel Pipe Main 77251-14420

Tube 77262-14070

Brake Pipe 47328-14030

Tube, FP 23091-46010

Band, F T 77602-14060

Band, FT 77601-14080

Insulator 58328-14010

Ins, FR, FL 58151-24041

Protect 77641-14100

Clamp, Pipe 47371-30180

Way, Brake Pipe 90412-10213

Supp. Fuel Tube 77411-14010

77412-14010

Supp, Fuel Tube 77413-14010

Grommet, FL/Tub 77295-22090

Supp. Fuel Tube 77414-14010

Clamp, Fuel Pipe 77298-14030

Supp. Fuel Tube 77415-14010

77416-14010

37334-50010

Grommet 90467-09165

Clip 90467-09143

Clip 90467-09096

Retainer Bumper 52588-14030

Retainer Bumper 52587-14030

Bolt 90119-10679

Bolt, W/Washer 90119-10784

Diffuser, Exhaust 17508-46030

Supp. Fuel Tube 77417-14010

Grommet 90189-05095

Screw 90159-50311

Edited by Burna (see edit history)
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The new fuel tank cover comes only with a cursory thin covering of paint from Toyota

 

Just received my tank all scratched back to bare metal in parts. On all the parts I'm getting its a dry fine sand, two coats of primer and three layers of black acrylic paint. Plus it'll be up on a ramp once a year so the new parts shouldn't rust, the rest of the car might but not the expensive new parts.

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I can see my underneath read end tidy up is a probably going to be poor second cousin by comparison. I'm adding a few bushes but they are mostly covered as the sub frame I got of Mikes black facelift strip had new bushes on the arms and decent arms to. I've taken on board doing all the fuel lines when the sub frame is off especially as the ones in place are corroded where they enter the protector. When you replaced your lines, did you also replace all the brackets or were the originals reusable? Adding all the brackets, grommets, screws and new protectors will add over £200 to the cost of parts so its a question worth asking.

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Nice work keep the thread rolling.

 

Thanks Kevin :) The updates won't come at a fast pace, but generally every winter the next stage will get done.

 

Just received my tank all scratched back to bare metal in parts. On all the parts I'm getting its a dry fine sand, two coats of primer and three layers of black acrylic paint. Plus it'll be up on a ramp once a year so the new parts shouldn't rust, the rest of the car might but not the expensive new parts.

 

Yeah I think the paint on it is not meant to be the finished coating, just a protective thin layer. Sounds like you're going about it the right way mate.

 

Superb attention to the little details that make all the difference. Look forward to more updates

 

/QUOTE]

 

That's Tim for you, his work is always impressive to look at it :)

 

Cracking car and ultra clean with exquisite attention to detail my friend. Good work buddy.

 

/QUOTE]

 

Thanks mate and I take that as a big compliment coming from you, as I know you are doing similar to this yourself in your garage, and you know the hard work and time that is involved! Now send me your lovely box of suspension bits please! lol

 

Very nice, cheers for parts list. Hopefully it'll do another 20 years :)

 

Thanks :) and no problem, you're welcome :) Still a long way to go with the rest of the car, but you have to start somewhere.

 

Great attention to detail. It's good to see another committed owner future planning as our cars are becoming rarer and need this sort of care. I look forward to the up-dates, great work :thumbs:

 

Thank you :) It's nice to have the work carried out appreciated.

 

I can see my underneath read end tidy up is a probably going to be poor second cousin by comparison. I'm adding a few bushes but they are mostly covered as the sub frame I got of Mikes black facelift strip had new bushes on the arms and decent arms to. I've taken on board doing all the fuel lines when the sub frame is off especially as the ones in place are corroded where they enter the protector. When you replaced your lines, did you also replace all the brackets or were the originals reusable? Adding all the brackets, grommets, screws and new protectors will add over £200 to the cost of parts so its a question worth asking.

 

As I said the subframe hasn't been touched, yet, just the brake lines replaced on it. Tim can confirm, but I'm pretty sure everything was replaced. Like you he original plan was to just replace the 5 long brake and fuel lines that enter that protector as they were visibly very badly corroded, but as we checked the condition of the other brake lines we noticed that they were shot too. For example, we looked at the brake line that goes across the rear subframe to the driver side brakes, from just looking it looked fine and re-usable, it wasn't until you put your fingers behind it and had a feel you could feel it was starting to blow through, scrap.

 

To give you an idea of the extent of parts replaced, the Toyota parts bill was around £2000, and then with the labour you're looking around £4000 in total, and again that's without anything being touched on the rear subframe bar the brake lines.

 

Can see the photos now, good job being done there, should extend the life of the car significantly!

 

Thanks Chris, still a long way to go yet though.

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Great attention to detail dude :thumbs: will be keeping an eye on this thread to see it coming along :) I'm wanting to do the whole underside of mine this winter at some point and drop the sub frames and etc to get them all cleaned up. So will keep an eye on the part numbers you have listed dude

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Great attention to detail dude :thumbs: will be keeping an eye on this thread to see it coming along :) I'm wanting to do the whole underside of mine this winter at some point and drop the sub frames and etc to get them all cleaned up. So will keep an eye on the part numbers you have listed dude

 

Not bad :)

 

Thank you both :)

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