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pjeaton

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  1. pjeaton

    1993 Toyota Supra TT

    Engine Specifications: Stock Turbocharger & Induction: Stock Fuel, Tuning & ECU: Stock Exhaust: Stock Drivetrain: Stock Weight Reduction & Transfer: Stock Suspension, Wheels, Tires & Brakes: Stock Interior & ICE: Stock Exterior: Stock Performance: It really is all stock! Max power - ??? bhp @ rear hubs Max torque - ??? lb/ft Max speed - ??? mph 0-60 - ?.? seconds
  2. OK, so I have a set of standard 17" wheels on the car right now, but the brakes are all seized as the car has been sitting for about 10 years (yep, really, I've had the car since 1998 - super low mileage ). When I put the 17" wheels on (10 yeas ago, mind), it was to replace the smaller ones, but the road-holding was awful, the car steered all over the place, leading me to believe that all the camber/pitch settings (whatever they're called) are all out for different wheel sizes. Is this generally correct? The decision I have now is whether to un-seize/clean-up the original j-spec brakes that are on the car now and go back to the 16" wheels, or upgrade to UK-spec ones and sort out the camber/pitch settings for the 17" wheels. Sorry this is going a bit off-topic, but am I on the right lines for this camber setup assumption with bigger wheels? Is it usually a big issue to resolve? Are the parts I might need to upgrade generally available? I'm not really looking to up-spec the car much, it's completely standard example and I'm happy to keep it that way. Thanks for your thoughts!
  3. Hmm, not sure what mine are then, I thought they were 15", see attached picture. I have the set the car came with (Jap import), black as in the picture, and a bigger set that I bought some years later that look just like everyone else started with i.e. silver/grey 16". Either way, they're definitely smaller that what most people have and I'm trying to find out if standard UK-spec brakes will fit. Anyone? UPDATE: OK, I found some pictures online of the small and big standard wheels and yes, the small ones I have are 16". So...I'm wondering if UK-spec brakes fit with 16" wheels?
  4. Hi All, just wondering...do the UK brakes fit with standard 15" wheels?
  5. Hello All, My MOT is due this month and it appears my exhaust has started blowing just at the wrong time :-( I haven't actually got underneath the car for a look yet, but I have a couple of questions anyway: Is there anything special about the Supra exhaust? It's a 1993 and I've had the car for 8 years and I'm still on the original exhaust (50,000 miles). Is it stainless steel? Can I buy the blowing part in a section, or do I need to buy the whole lot? Can I take it into Kwik-fit and get it fixed? If not, where would be a good place, either local'ish to St Albans or Northamptonshire? How much is it all going to cost me? Is welding it advisable/worth it? All thoughts appreciated! Many Thanks, Phillip Eaton
  6. Hello All, I am on the lookout for some standard silver 17" wheels for my Supra. I currently have a J-spec car with 16's. My car is in good condition so I'm really looking for good condition wheels to match, or if the one's you're selling are scuffed, then you'll have to tell me where I can get them sorted out! (Preferably local to me, I'm in St Albans,) With or without rubber considered. I would like to see pictures of them before buying. Cheers, Phillip Eaton St Albans
  7. ... I'd like some confirmation that what I think I'm seeing is correct. Obviously, my Air Con isn't working :-( When I switch on the Air Con, the revs rise a little and fall back again when I switch it off. It used to work, but it hasn't been used for over 6 months and now I get no cold air at all. I've powered up the car with the Auto and Recycle buttons held in, as described in the test pdf, and then shone the torch onto the solar sensor to get rid of the Defrost flashing and then it flashes the Auto lights only, which appears to tell me that the electronics are OK. I've looked in the small round inspection window, next to the grey H knob under the bonnet, before starting the engine, and it's empty. Well, I say it is empty, but it could actually be full as the liquid is clear and I can't tell. I start the engine and that window fills up and you can see tiny bubbles 'shimmering' in there and theres a very slight build up of froth on the left hand side of the window. The liquid stays clear the whole time. Again, from all the posts I've read so far, this is OK. So, the question I have is whether I'm looking a a simple gas recharge or are there other things I should be looking at? Can I test the pressure myself? The sticker under the bonnet says R134 (or something like that), so I was wondering if anyone can recommend somewhere local to me for refilling it? How much should it cost? When they fill it, what do they put in? Is it clear gas, or is it the fluid that I can see in there at the moment? If it's gas, what's the fluid? Maybe the gas turns to liquid? Sorry for all the questions - I'm just curious! Thanks for your time. Phillip Eaton
  8. Paul from Cartronics came around today to sort out my alarm. Apparently the Clifford Concept 300 (and possibly other Clifford models) have a wire ariel installed in the car for picking up the signal from the remotes. For some odd reason, sometimes this 'stops working'. Clifford's official solution is to replace the wire ariel with a more substantial one, which has a little box on the end and looks more like an ariel than a simple piece of wire. After adding this new ariel, the remotes started working again. The reason why the Valet switch wouldn't disable the alarm for me was because one of the two valet switch buttons was buggered. Paul tried a new one in it's place and it fixed that problem. I checked the new and existing switches with a multimeter. The new one has resistance of 10 Ohms and 0 Ohms for the two buttons respectively. My broken one had 10 Ohms for one and some random value on the other, which changed the harder you pressed it. According to Paul this apparently happens now and again as well. So, fortunately, I didn't have to replace the main unit. Total bill was 76 quid including the new ariel, the new switch and VAT. He had to travel for about 1/2 hour each way to get to me and worked around the car for about 2 hours. Sounds like a fair price to me. Another useful trick he mentioned was to put the alarm into Valet mode when you disconnect the battery, and this will stop it immediately wailing when you reconnect the battery. That'll cheer the neighbours up :-) Phil (Happy now).
  9. To follow up on this, I just called up Paul up again, and he remembered who I was (which is always a good start). He was very apologetic for not calling me back and we've agreed a solid date in a couple of weeks. If I don't post again, assume it's all gone well! Thanks to everyone for all their help so far... Phil.
  10. Hi Snowman, Thanks for you thoughts. Perhaps the tone of the original email was misleading. I'm not complaining about his service, I'm just telling it how it is! As I said in my initial email, he did do a great job of original fitting. When I found an installation error, he came back a couple of days later and sorted it out free of charge and made sure I was happy. I'm sure that a number of fitters wouldn't do that. (Although they might not stay Clifford approved for very long.) However, I called him up a about 6 weeks ago, and he said he was busy but would get back to me. When he didn't, I called him up about 3 weeks ago and his missus said he'd been very busy and she'd get him to call me up striaight away. Unfortunately that hasn't happened yet. That's not a complaint, it's just fact. If I'm unhappy with a service, I'll go elsewhere. I think the fact that I'm still willing to give Paul the work shows my satisfaction of the service he has previously provided. Lets hope I can get some more, cos at the moment, I'm still without wheels! Cheers, Phil.
  11. OK, I'll give him the benefit of the doubt and call him up again. Regarding the remote batteries, this was the first thing I tried. I though it strange that both remotes would fail at the same time, so I bought 2 new batteries, but it didn't make any difference. The remotes wouldn't affect the operation of the Valet switch anyway, which doesn't work for me. I'm 100% sure the battery is OK. I also have another battery which I've tried from my girlfriends car, and it still makes no difference. All I can think of is that the unit is buggered. Not being allowed to fix it myslef is annoying, as I was an electonics engineer until a few years ago... Wish me luck!
  12. Thanks for your ideas, Matt. They really are appreciated. I'm 100% sure the battery is OK. I used it for 3 months before talking the car off the road, and I charge it for 1 hour a week, and the voltage is 13VDC off charge. I have a nasty suspicion that the unit might well be broken. Fortunately, I believe Clifford guarantee against failure for life. However, I still have to get the thing off. So coming back to the 3nd part of my original question... Can anyone recommend a Clifford engineer around my area of St. Albans? Thanks, Phil.
  13. No, it's not the pattern telling you the sensor that was triggered, I think it's the different LED flash duration that tells you simply that it's been triggered. (Remember I'm working from memory.) I'm sure I was using the valet switch correctly. I've used it several times over the years, but this time it's really stumping me. This time around I followed the manual word for word, but it just wouldn't respond. My neighbours must be getting real pis*ed off with me now! Does anyone around this area have the RS232 interface? Can I just plug one in, or does it need to be factory fitted? Cheers, Phil.
  14. Oh, that LED - Dur! It's acting...normally. I haven't reconnected the battery for a week or two, but as far as I remember, it was acting normally. The remotes don't work and when you open the car door and try to use the valet switch instead, it the siren goes off etc. After that, you get the standard LED pattern showing you the alarm has been triggered. Phil.
  15. LED? What LED? I guess I'll have to open up the bonnet and find the main alarm unit then... Any idea where the alarm installer will have hidden it? Any distinguishing features to look for on the casing. (I suppose the answer to that one is 'look for the box with the LED on it'.) The battery is definetely charged up. It was a brand new battery just before I took it off the road, and I've kept it fully charged using a charger. Voltage check shows it to be fine. Cheers, Phil.
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